AgentSPS' 300 Gallon ***DreamReef***

Re: Anyone into Japanese FW Planted?

Re: Anyone into Japanese FW Planted?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13493355#post13493355 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AgentSPS
My ADA

49d70ad9.jpg

Oh I soooo want to re-setup my old tank as a freshwater planted discus tank now, but the wife will go nuts. I do love a shoal of tetras, but the discus and angels tend to eat them all. :-)

Still reading your thread, just had to comment on the FW setup.
Conor.
 
I almost forgot about this thread. Thanks for the richmond wrasse photos post earlier. I have my LFS out looking for one.

Any updates?
 
Overflow Slit Modification

Overflow Slit Modification

For those who have been following closely, I mentioned earlier in this thread that the water level in this tank is just too high. The water level is only about 1/2" from the top of the tank. A surge of current or fish swimming too close to the surface is all it takes to spill over. I have been racking my brains trying to come up with some way to make the slits in the overflow longer. Below is one of my designs for a jig to retrofit the overflow. You may recall seeing this earlier in my build thread.

RouterJig.jpg


The only thing I remember from Computer Science 101 was that the simplest coding to achieve the desired result was the most elegant. The above design, while it would probably do the trick, is way too complicated to build and probably too bulky for such tight conditions.

Remembering my CS 101 class, I rethought the whole project. Essentially all I needed to do was keep a cutting tool perfectly straight, aligned with the existing slits, and make sure it cut down to the same depth on all the slits. This is the final result:

DSC_0018-2.jpg


How did I do it??

Well the original design was out of acrylic as it is the easiest material for me to work with. The stupid oversight is that the Dremmel spins at thousands of RPM's and ended up melting the jig half way through the first slit. The only other easily workable material was aluminum.

The hardest part of making the jig is making sure all the holes are on the same center line. If they are not then you will end up with angled slits. I mounted a piece of acrylic on my drill press table to unsure all the holes came out in a perfectly straight line. There are four holes to be drilled. One is for the Dremmel bit to fit through (1/8"). Two to accommodate 1/4" dowels which are what slip into the existing overflow slits and act as the guides. The final top hole holds a pin which ensures all the slits are cut to the same depth. My overflow slits are closed at the top. Some peoples are open and you will need to come up with a different design for the stop.

Here are some more photos so you get the idea:

DSC_0002-1.jpg


DSC_0005-2.jpg


DSC_0006-1.jpg


I built 4 because I found that the tough steel shaft of the Dremmel cutting head wares away the aluminum and widens those hole. This creates too much wiggle room for the cutter end will result in messy slits. You can do about 5-7 slits with each jig. If you made it from steel, it would probably last a lot longer. I just don't have the right setup.

DSC_0012-3.jpg


DSC_0015-3.jpg


DSC_0017-4.jpg


And here is what it looks like all assembled and hooked up to the Dremmel:

DSC_0019-2.jpg



I am about half way completed on the slit lengthening right now. So far everything looks factory. I will try to post some pics of the result later.

Any questions??? Class dismissed....
 
Some shots of overflow slit lengthening in progress:

What is looks like before any modification:

DSC_0003-3.jpg


DSC_0004-3.jpg


Half way there and its time for a fresh jig:

DSC_0006-2.jpg


Took the photo leaving the slit to the left untouched for comparison:

DSC_0007-2.jpg
 
Very cool, thank you for documenting the process! :thumbsup: So how many inches of water were you able to lower from the rim afterwards?
 
Glad to see you're dropping the water level. Slick jigs to get that accomplished!

My water level was running 1/2" from the top for the longest time. The eggcrate around my overflow plugged up with bubble algae and my tank overflowed around Christmas. You'll be happy with the peace of mind knowing this type of disaster is much less likely!

Tyler
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14136112#post14136112 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kigs
Very cool, thank you for documenting the process! :thumbsup: So how many inches of water were you able to lower from the rim afterwards?

You are very welcome. I have heard and seen too many freehand Dremmel botchups and figured there are others out there as type A as myself.

So after lowering about half of the total slits by 1/4", I achieved close to 1/4" drop in water level. I only completed the left and right sides of the overflow. I was hoping to avoid doing the front facing ones as the tank is too wide and too long to conveniently reach. The only plan I have so far is to put some 3/4" ply over the top of the tank and climb up! Nonetheless I think I need the water level another 1/4" lower to satiate my OCD.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14136733#post14136733 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tgunn
Glad to see you're dropping the water level. Slick jigs to get that accomplished!

My water level was running 1/2" from the top for the longest time. The eggcrate around my overflow plugged up with bubble algae and my tank overflowed around Christmas. You'll be happy with the peace of mind knowing this type of disaster is much less likely!

Tyler

Sorry to hear about the spill! For this reason I never leave the tank unattended when feeding Nori. All it takes is a few blocked slits and I got water all over the floor. AGE designed the tank with the top of the overflow just slightly lower than the height of the tank walls. Normally this should work to prevent mishaps. In my case, its of no benefit as the tank leans slightly forward and to the right. When we installed the tank, everything seemed true and level. To protect the tile, we placed 1/2" rubber mat material under the steel stand frame. Despite this, the tank has not settled to level (yet). I fear that since it has not in the 5 months it has been set up, it never will.
 
my tank leans forward a lil bit too, I copied Edwards design so i only have about an inch lip above the waterline in the front, and sometimes water just jumps out.... not that often but its kinda annoying.
 
That's pretty dangone slick jig you got there Erik. If it was me, I would've just went the lazy way and decrease the water flow from the return pump instead...lol. How long did it take you to make the jigs? The result looks great!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14139193#post14139193 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Robert4025
That's pretty dangone slick jig you got there Erik. If it was me, I would've just went the lazy way and decrease the water flow from the return pump instead...lol. How long did it take you to make the jigs? The result looks great!

Hi Robert-

Thanks for the complement. I would say most of the time was spent on cycles brainstorming the design. The first iteration probably took me three hours just because all the precise measuring and fabrication of guides to make sure the jig was aligned properly on the press.

Last night I made 4 jigs in about 2 hours. I made a blank/template and all I have to do is lay it on top and drill away.

I might still need to turn down the flow of the return pump in addition to the modifications. Rather than put back pressure on the pump, I would prefer to make a bleed line. That is a whole other project considering how tight my plumbing is.
 
Just a guess, but your tanks probably lean forward due to the rock being in the back and the water being heavier than the rock. So when the tank is full with water and rock, the rock displaces the heavier water making the back (since most people put rock toward the back) becaomes slightly lighter.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14140189#post14140189 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ac green
Not too bad, too bad it won't work on my system. Profilux instructions will be posted tonight!

Send me the link! I need to have profilux access from the web!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14140340#post14140340 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tcmfish
Just a guess, but your tanks probably lean forward due to the rock being in the back and the water being heavier than the rock. So when the tank is full with water and rock, the rock displaces the heavier water making the back (since most people put rock toward the back) becaomes slightly lighter.

Interesting theory but somehow doubt it is the cause. I think it is most likely just uneven slab. Maybe uneven density/elasticity of the rubber plays into it as well. Either way there is no way in hell I am going to empty this tank to shim it properly.
 
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