AI Hydra Settings Thread

Hello everyone. I'm new to the site and I've been reading a lot of the posts on the AI Hydras and I feel like this maybe the place to get some answers since I can't get them anywhere else.

I filled my 125 gallon reef early in September. over the next 3 months I have filled it with the following fish:

Yellow Tang
Atlantic Blue Tang
2 Bengali Cardinal Fish
Cleaner Wrasse
Yellow Corus Wrasse
Foxface Rabbit fish
Koran Angelfish
Royal Dottyback
Mandarin Goby

My current corals are:

Hammer
Alveopra
Yellow Hammer
Frog Spawn
Branching Frog Spawn
Zoanthids

I have been trying to get corals going in my tank now for about 2 months now and I am having troubles getting them adapted. My current setup is I have a 55 gallon sump running a 15 gallon refugium, dual reactor running GFO & Carbon, 3 Hydra LED Lights 8 1/2 inches from the water, Diablo 150 protein skimmer, 2 mp40 pumps, 4 stage RODI water system, and 125 pounds of Pucanni Live Rock. All of my equipment was bought brand new. After doing a lot of troubleshooting, test kits, ect. I've come up with my lighting intensity is not right. I called AI and talked to Justin & their reef expert Joel. Joel told me that my intensities were too low and I needed to ramp them up. He had me set whites at 80% DB at 80% UV he turn off for the time being, and then rest between 40 and 50. Then he setup coral acclamation over the next month at 30 percent. My corals did not like that at all. They closed up even tighter than they were before and I'm still trying to recover. Right now I have everything pretty low. My highest percentage is 40 % on DB and RB. My whites are not getting higher that 12% and I have them only schedule to be on for 4 hours of the day. My corals are doing much better. I was just curious if anybody else was running AI Hydras that has had this experience, or if there were was anybody else running AI Hydras with a softy reef tank seeing thats all I have in my tank right now. I would appreciate any information I can get on intensities of the AI Hydras. Thanks


My corals don't like alot of white I had to cut way back and add all the others also cut back on the red and green (to cut back on Algae). I think if you read back you will find that most cut back on Whites

Ryan
 
I can't keep zoanthids anymore.... Ever since I started putting lps and sps in the tank...
My zoas are stretching for light, but yet my sps are growing fine.... No clue man... I might check out the radions gen 3 if I hit the lotto
 
I can't keep zoanthids anymore.... Ever since I started putting lps and sps in the tank...
My zoas are stretching for light, but yet my sps are growing fine.... No clue man... I might check out the radions gen 3 if I hit the lotto



My zoanthids are growing like crazy and that's with the power turn down the highest I have anything is 55%
 
Same here, I received a free 2" frag with zoas and just stuck them to a rock on my sand bed and they are already growing on the rock.
 
anyone else acans not so fluffy when the white leds are on? the max my whites are up to is 40% cause i have anemones in the tank, and my acans dont fluff up until the whites turn completely off
 


Update with my setup. I'm currently gauging my light percentages based on the Yellow Hammer Coral I have at the bottom of my tank. The coral looks great until about the middle of Timer 3 and then it starts to close up a little. This leads me to believe that it either doesn't like the white or the UV. If anybody has any insight on that I would greatly appreciate it. I had the white at 12% so I decided to lower it to 7% for the time being. I think I'm going to lower the UV to 10% as well. Still trying to get all of my corals to open before I start pumping up the percentages. Again I believe Joel's advice was way off and they are still trying to recover from the shock.

So here is what I have my % at right now:

Timer : 01

8:00 AM to 11:00 AM
Ramp: 3:00

W - 0%
V - 35%
DR - 25%
G - 20%
DB - 35%
RY - 35%
UV - 0%

Timer : 02

11:00 AM to 2:00 pM
Ramp: 3:00

W - 0%
V - 50%
DR - 25%
G - 25%
DB - 50%
RY - 50%
UV - 0%

Timer : 03

2:00 PM to 6:00 pM
Ramp: 2:00

W - 7%
V - 30%
DR - 20%
G - 20%
DB - 30%
RY - 30%
UV - 20%

Timer: 04

6:00 PM to 7:00 pM
Ramp: 1:00

CW - 0%
V - 50%
DR - 20%
G - 25%
DB - 45%
RY - 45%
UV - 0%

Timer: 05

7:00 PM to 11:00 PM
Ramp: 4:00

CW - 0%
V - 0%
DR - 0%
G - 0%
DB - 3%
RY - 3%
UV - 0%

Timer: 06

11:00 PM to 12:00 am
Ramp: 1:00

CW - 0%
V - 0%
DR - 0%
G - 0%
DB - 1%
RY - 1%
UV - 0%

Anybody have any advice on this I am all ears? :-)
 
I'm on
W 37
V 70
G 60
R 40
Blues 85
UV 90
I was told buy the UK importer to run the uv at 100 but I think that's OTT
I acquired a green bubble which was under T5 lighting
Since adding it to mine with Hydras it's only opening early morn and night which makes me think it's not happy with some aspect of the light
I also purchased a Yuma which was equivalent to $50 (1 shroom)
Looks great when I put it in, now it's shrivelled and faded. Iv placed it in an overhang.
Sps, some are stripping at the tips
Tanks been running 5 year, was great under T5 soon as I switched to Hydras had nothing but problems
I think more info from the manufacturer about % depending on stock and depth of tank Etc would go a long way in helping us understand the best way to use them
 
Update with my setup. I'm currently gauging my light percentages based on the Yellow Hammer Coral I have at the bottom of my tank. The coral looks great until about the middle of Timer 3 and then it starts to close up a little. This leads me to believe that it either doesn't like the white or the UV. If anybody has any insight on that I would greatly appreciate it. I had the white at 12% so I decided to lower it to 7% for the time being. I think I'm going to lower the UV to 10% as well. Still trying to get all of my corals to open before I start pumping up the percentages. Again I believe Joel's advice was way off and they are still trying to recover from the shock.

So here is what I have my % at right now:

Timer : 01

8:00 AM to 11:00 AM
Ramp: 3:00

W - 0%
V - 35%
DR - 25%
G - 20%
DB - 35%
RY - 35%
UV - 0%

Timer : 02

11:00 AM to 2:00 pM
Ramp: 3:00

W - 0%
V - 50%
DR - 25%
G - 25%
DB - 50%
RY - 50%
UV - 0%

Timer : 03

2:00 PM to 6:00 pM
Ramp: 2:00

W - 7%
V - 30%
DR - 20%
G - 20%
DB - 30%
RY - 30%
UV - 20%

Timer: 04

6:00 PM to 7:00 pM
Ramp: 1:00

CW - 0%
V - 50%
DR - 20%
G - 25%
DB - 45%
RY - 45%
UV - 0%

Timer: 05

7:00 PM to 11:00 PM
Ramp: 4:00

CW - 0%
V - 0%
DR - 0%
G - 0%
DB - 3%
RY - 3%
UV - 0%

Timer: 06

11:00 PM to 12:00 am
Ramp: 1:00

CW - 0%
V - 0%
DR - 0%
G - 0%
DB - 1%
RY - 1%
UV - 0%

Anybody have any advice on this I am all ears? :-)

Is this setup through your Apex?
 
I'm on
W 37
V 70
G 60
R 40
Blues 85
UV 90
I was told buy the UK importer to run the uv at 100 but I think that's OTT
I acquired a green bubble which was under T5 lighting
Since adding it to mine with Hydras it's only opening early morn and night which makes me think it's not happy with some aspect of the light
I also purchased a Yuma which was equivalent to $50 (1 shroom)
Looks great when I put it in, now it's shrivelled and faded. Iv placed it in an overhang.
Sps, some are stripping at the tips
Tanks been running 5 year, was great under T5 soon as I switched to Hydras had nothing but problems
I think more info from the manufacturer about % depending on stock and depth of tank Etc would go a long way in helping us understand the best way to use them

I feel the same way about what the manufacturer should do about what percentage it should be at depending on stock. They pump out the par numbers and graphs but never really show how the corals really respond to the lights. Everyone says LED are the next big thing so far this is my 3rd set of LED lights and to me they are becoming Junk. They might work for some people systems but not everyone... JMO
 
I personally love this fixture. I was a die hard radion fan before and I started to use these and everything is doing great. I love the color output of these over the Radion. I mainly stock z/p and chalices and everything is doing great. I am playing with the settings a little bit still but I would say it is almost 100% dialed in.
 
I'm having similar issues to what you are having. I can't believe there is nobody at AI that can help support the Hydras. Keep me posted if you figure anything out.
 
I set up a new tank, 92G corner bow, last weekend and picked up 2 Hydras with the director for the new set up. I had a 70G rectangle with 2 150 MH and 2 96W actinic. I must say the corals are loving the new lights! I had a 4 head acan that was pretty much nothing but skeleton and it has grown back out over the skeleton in a week. A trumpet coral that puffed right up after being under the new lights. I must say I'm impressed do far!

Initial settings were
Whites: 25%
All others: 15%
noon till 6pm with a 3 hour ramp up/down time
 
I set up a new tank, 92G corner bow, last weekend and picked up 2 Hydras with the director for the new set up. I had a 70G rectangle with 2 150 MH and 2 96W actinic. I must say the corals are loving the new lights! I had a 4 head acan that was pretty much nothing but skeleton and it has grown back out over the skeleton in a week. A trumpet coral that puffed right up after being under the new lights. I must say I'm impressed do far!

Initial settings were
Whites: 25%
All others: 15%
noon till 6pm with a 3 hour ramp up/down time

Why so low on your power setting?
 
OK so I just bought this light and the wireless controller after my MH took a dump. So far I'm bummed.

I just moved so I have no internet. I set up the light to the controller without a problem. While at a buddies house I used his internet to update the firmware to 2.49. Then when I get home and fire up the controller it says updating firmware. While it does this my light starts flashing then turns off. I've tried everything to get the controller connected again but the controller won't recognize the light anymore. I reset the remote to factory settings and now it says Sol Blue up in the left corner.

I couldn't get the red LED on the back until I finally held down the red button for like a minute and then the light turned on what looks like 100%. Still the remote won't find the light and I couldn't make incremental changes or turn it off with the red button. It's just stuck on. UGGGGHHH!!

I had a Sol before my 250W MH and was fairly happy with it but so far I hate this light.

Anyone have an idea about what's going on with my controller issues? Any help would be appreciated. I'm going to call AI support but I've been crazy with the move and starting a new job. Thanks again folks
 
I had an issue with my controller when I got it. AI (Justin) was very good at sending me out a new one to replace it right away. If I could go back and do it over I would get the Director though. The coltroller is pretty poor if you ask me. I will be upgrading to the director in the near future.
 
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