Reeftub
New member
Wow that sucks as I feel like the runners next to Forest hump when he decides to stop running and says I think I'll go home now.
AI Hydra Settings Thread
- Thread starter hilgert
- Start date
Wow that sucks as I feel like the runners next to Forest hump when he decides to stop running and says I think I'll go home now.
Orcus Varuna
New member
Haha
[emoji23] If I ran a hood I totally would have done retrofits with the hydra but I want to clean up the install and reduce my wirenest. I thought about the new aquatic life fixture but the wire management on that thing was about as bad as my current setup lol
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PanchoG
New member
RioReefr
New member
LED lighting recommendation for AI Prime HD
LED lighting recommendation for AI Prime HD
I am hoping someone can give me some light setting recommendations on the AI Prime HD.
I am relatively new (4 months) to the hobby.
I have been using Red Sea Pro Salt mix and these are my water parameters: 1.025, 9.5 dkH, 460 Ca, 8.3 pH, 79-81F, very low shade Phospates.
This is basically a 2x2x2 32G All-In-One tank, only LPS: Devil's Hand Leather, Green Star Polyps, Green Branching Hammer, Blue Candy Cane, Duncans and Shrooms.
I am using flex mount and it is 10" aove.
Lights start at 8am and end at 6pm, 5% blues until 8pm, then go just 1% Royal-Blue for the entire night.
Max Settings: UV 58%, V 75%, RB 105%, B 100%, G 0%, R 3%, W 21%
Questions:
Should I just eliminate the "White" and just go with Blue, Royal-Blue, and Violet? Any suggestions about lighting would be appreciated.
I have read that the White light just contribute to algae growth and not optimum for corals.
LED lighting recommendation for AI Prime HD
I am hoping someone can give me some light setting recommendations on the AI Prime HD.
I am relatively new (4 months) to the hobby.
I have been using Red Sea Pro Salt mix and these are my water parameters: 1.025, 9.5 dkH, 460 Ca, 8.3 pH, 79-81F, very low shade Phospates.
This is basically a 2x2x2 32G All-In-One tank, only LPS: Devil's Hand Leather, Green Star Polyps, Green Branching Hammer, Blue Candy Cane, Duncans and Shrooms.
I am using flex mount and it is 10" aove.
Lights start at 8am and end at 6pm, 5% blues until 8pm, then go just 1% Royal-Blue for the entire night.
Max Settings: UV 58%, V 75%, RB 105%, B 100%, G 0%, R 3%, W 21%
Questions:
Should I just eliminate the "White" and just go with Blue, Royal-Blue, and Violet? Any suggestions about lighting would be appreciated.
I have read that the White light just contribute to algae growth and not optimum for corals.
Attachments
PanchoG
New member
Orcus has shared very nice settings for Hydras HD, just go back a few pages on this thread and you will find them. You will have to download them to your iPhone/Android and them transfer them to the lights.
Here is a snap shot of one the profiles for SPS (but should look on the others as well):
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Orcus Varuna
New member
You should definitely give my profiles a shot as @PanchoG said. They are based off of the popular SPS AB+ on radion lights and do well for pretty much any tank. As for your question on white light causing algae growth I personally think that's hogwash. Nutrients drive algae growth not light spectrum imo and I have seen plenty beautiful algae free tanks (including my own [emoji6]) that take advantage of plenty of white light. I went so far as to add 2 Giesemann Tropic 6500k bulbs to my hydra running my sps schedule and had no appreciable change in algae levels. One last thing I want to mention is I would not use the AI fixture as a moonlight. Even at 1% it's still throwing a few watts of light down on your tank which is way too much imo. I would personally look for a separate dedicated moon light.
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Hi All,
I am a happy owner of 2 x AI HD 52 which i run over a mixed reef size W4xD2xH3.
Having research all the forums for AI settings alongside PAR their tank readings i found that i was unable to calibrate other people's results at different depths and exact light settings because of how they had portrayed them, often in pictorial form, without exact depth measures etc. I eventually obtained a PAR meter and took measurements as follows which is how i would of found useful set of results. I hope someone finds this useful.
PAR Settings 1
At Water Line 590
Under LED (CM Depth, PAR)
12 405
24 243
36 205
48 162
60 143
20cm Away LED (CM Depth, PAR)
12 216
24 200
36 178
48 162
60 143
AI Settings 1
UV 100
Violet 100
Royal 100
Blue 100
Green 10
Red 10
Cool White 34
I am a happy owner of 2 x AI HD 52 which i run over a mixed reef size W4xD2xH3.
Having research all the forums for AI settings alongside PAR their tank readings i found that i was unable to calibrate other people's results at different depths and exact light settings because of how they had portrayed them, often in pictorial form, without exact depth measures etc. I eventually obtained a PAR meter and took measurements as follows which is how i would of found useful set of results. I hope someone finds this useful.
PAR Settings 1
At Water Line 590
Under LED (CM Depth, PAR)
12 405
24 243
36 205
48 162
60 143
20cm Away LED (CM Depth, PAR)
12 216
24 200
36 178
48 162
60 143
AI Settings 1
UV 100
Violet 100
Royal 100
Blue 100
Green 10
Red 10
Cool White 34
I'm running an AI Hydra 52 Hd over my IM Lagoon 50 which is 30x19x16. Light is 12" above the water. Water parameters are
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Phosphate .07ppm
Calcium 450
Mag 1360
Alk 10
Ph 8.3
Flow is 2 loop ic wave makers 1000gph running at 60% and the return pump which is supposed to be around 450gph
I've been running the Orcus AB+ acclimating from 30% for 60 days as instructed by Orcus. Started he acclimation process Feb 1st. I started the schedule because some of my new sps (some montipora and a acropora) started bleaching. The corals are about 8" from the surface The bleaching seamed to slow down once I started the new settings. Now that I'm 24 days into he acclimation the bleaching seems to be getting worse.
My question is. Is this light overkill for the tank. Is it possible that the concentration of leds is too much for the center of my tank? Or do you suspect something else is causing the problem? Nothing will grow or be happy in the center of the tank. Things were way better when I was running two loop ic led lights. Everything near the edges of the tank are growing great.
Should I ditch these lights for two primes? Maybe 3?
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Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Phosphate .07ppm
Calcium 450
Mag 1360
Alk 10
Ph 8.3
Flow is 2 loop ic wave makers 1000gph running at 60% and the return pump which is supposed to be around 450gph
I've been running the Orcus AB+ acclimating from 30% for 60 days as instructed by Orcus. Started he acclimation process Feb 1st. I started the schedule because some of my new sps (some montipora and a acropora) started bleaching. The corals are about 8" from the surface The bleaching seamed to slow down once I started the new settings. Now that I'm 24 days into he acclimation the bleaching seems to be getting worse.
My question is. Is this light overkill for the tank. Is it possible that the concentration of leds is too much for the center of my tank? Or do you suspect something else is causing the problem? Nothing will grow or be happy in the center of the tank. Things were way better when I was running two loop ic led lights. Everything near the edges of the tank are growing great.
Should I ditch these lights for two primes? Maybe 3?
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PanchoG
New member
Hello @gtp0083, I do not think you need to ditch you lights. Definitely any led light can bleach corals, perhaps you need to run Orcus profile at a certain %, perhaps at 80%. Each reef will react in a different way so you need to fine tune the profile to your tank.
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Orcus Varuna
New member
Agreed I would try my AB+ t5ho setting it's a 35% reduction in light output but the exact same spectrum as the full power. Run that for a few months and see how that goes.
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Orcus Varuna
New member
The instructions are posted multiple times in the past 50 pages of this thread. Don't have time to find them now but if your still having issues later today I'll dig them up and repost them.
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Merfin70
Premium Member
I just setup my new tank with the AI Prime and am using the Orcus Varuna AB SPS profile. But I think I've decided to be mostly LPS, Zoa and some rock flower anemone. Should I reduce the settings proportionally or is the an LPS/lower light profile I should be looking at ?
Orcus Varuna
New member
What size tank and how high above the water is the light mounted?
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Merfin70
Premium Member
Orcus Varuna - The tank is an IM Nuvo Peninsula 14 gallon mounted with the standard AI 90 degree rigid arm so I suspect the light is 9" or so over the water. I have the arm set to get the light as far off the water as possible but that's not terribly high.
Thoughts ?
Orcus Varuna
New member
I'll be running the same setup here in about 2 weeks so I'll let you know haha
On a serious note, based on the dimensions I would do the full power schedule on a 30% acclimation for 2-3 months to be safe. I ran the full power at a similar mounting height on a similar sized tank just fine for a year. Also I find the mounting height to be more important on the multi puck hydras then the single puck prime.
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PanchoG
New member
Hola @Orcus Varuna, I have been using your SPS AB+ w/respirations profile and the results are really good! Thanks for sharing the profiles, every SPS and LPS colors have been enhanced specially the montis.
Now the profile runs in 9 hours frame, that is a bit sad as I was used to have it 12 hours and enjoy those 3 extra hours.
Have you tried to use SPS AB+ profiles in 12 hours periods? would it be too much light for the corals or bring algae?
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Now the profile runs in 9 hours frame, that is a bit sad as I was used to have it 12 hours and enjoy those 3 extra hours.
Have you tried to use SPS AB+ profiles in 12 hours periods? would it be too much light for the corals or bring algae?
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