air bubbles around eyes

I have one lonely fry in my 10 gallon tank, just waiting for next batch of brine to hatch today to feed him. I've been putting in Cyclops, rotifer-eze and phyto-eze until I can feed him bring hatchlings later today!
 
You will need to siphon out any uneaten food in the tank to try to prevent loss of the fry to bacteria concerns, especially as the fry is unlikely to eat anything that is not live and appropriately sized.
 
well it's Tuesday and the little bugger is still alive and kicking. Been putting in newly hatched brine as well as copepods, rotifers, phyto and first bites. I have been cleaning every day and adding new water from the macro tank. Dad is still hunting in the macro and last night him and my female were "cuddling" in the feeder station. hopefully he'll get preggo again and have more than one baby this time. I'm hoping in a couple of weeks I see some of the babies in my macro but not holding my breath!
 
My personal preference is to remove them from the water they were born in and place them in new, aged salt water, matching things like temp, pH, salinity, in order to lessen the exposure to any pathogens in the original tank.
When doing the cleaning, wipe down ALL surfaces including all panes of the tank as the bacterial slime starts to build up very fast.
As for a pregnancy, watch for an egg transfer, but in case you miss it, look for any orange eggs that sometimes don't get completed in the transfer and that will give you an idea of when to expect the fry in 15 to 17 days later.
When that time comes, check daily before or as soon as the lights come on because IME, most birthings happen early in the morning.
Sometimes a few get released the day/evening before and can be a warning sign.
While the phyto isn't going to feed the seahorses, it is an aid to using up ammonia produced by the fry when you have more of them.
You can stop using the " First Bites" as the fry will not eat them.
Also, the rotifers need to be live, not frozen, because it takes some time when they are older to be able to be weaned onto ANY non live foods.
As copepods come in many sizes, you need an appropriately size copepod, not larger than newly hatched brine shrimp, and again, they need to be live.
 
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