air turnover rate in a fishroom

polywise

OLD SCHOOL-ish
I am in the planning stage for a remote fishroom, and am trying to calculate how much air should be turned over in the room.

The room is in my basement, and is 1,682 cubic feet
supply air will come from outside
vented air will go outside.
the room is tightly closed off from the rest of the house.
Any one with experience on how many times / hr the room should be ventilated when ventilation is in use?
no chiller in the room, just a few pumps, and 8 400w MH reflectors.
 
There may not be too many HVAC folks on here, but there are a lot of successful reefers who may have some suggestions...

How will the supply air come in from outside?

What type of ventilation system are you considering?

My system is similar to what you're describing because most of the tank is behind a wall in a 10' x 14' dedicated fish equipment room. I draw air from the main structure and vent it out through the roof with (2) 100 cfm vents located above the tank. When weather allows, I have a back screened door that also allows fresh air to enter the room...

Be sure to consider heat and humidity in your planning... :cool:

Good luck on your build.

LL
 
Lightsluvr,

Air will be supplied from outside, and exhausted back outside
I bought one of these last week, and 2 of these inline fans
one will be dialed down way slow to be used for humidity control.
 

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im also thinking about venting setups and plain to do something very simliar to what you are doing . i am getting ready for a 600gal build its a peniselua style and will basically be protruding out from a wall . and have the top and bottoms enclosed . and then about 6ft behind the end of the tank for the pumps and other stuff then the sump below the tank . but what im plainong on doing is on one end have the inlet air from outside . and then the other end have the outlet . and will be using the same inline fans you have shown . . i did not see the controller you posted yet but it looks like it may work for me also ? but i was thinking of just having temp probes inside the enclosure and just letting them be automatic .


im also not sure if i will run a chiller . i have a small chiller now for my 70 gal tank and may put it in a closed loop setup just to help dissapate the heat in the summer im not sure yet but atleast it would add cooler water to the display but i will see how the vent setup works first
 
I put two 800 CFM ultra quit bathroom exhaust fans attached to a rheostat to keep my fishroom and tank from causing a temp or humidity problem. We do something similar in our apartment buildings to keep mold down in the attic areas and trust ways. Humidity is the biggest problem especially here in the South.
 
currently, i have my 80gal sump in the basement.
signs of corrosion seem to be spreadng throughout the basement so i
want to close off the sump into its own airtight room. at least,
airtight except for the gap under the door.

can i just get a fantech unit and continually dump air outside
(through a duct similiar to that of a clothes dryer vent)?
(it would likely be a small rate.) will the replacement air just come in
under the (closed) door? will this create negative pressure and start
interfering with the venting for the (gas) heating and hot water systems?
 
currently, i have my 80gal sump in the basement.
signs of corrosion seem to be spreadng throughout the basement so i
want to close off the sump into its own airtight room. at least,
airtight except for the gap under the door.

can i just get a fantech unit and continually dump air outside
(through a duct similiar to that of a clothes dryer vent)?
(it would likely be a small rate.) will the replacement air just come in
under the (closed) door? will this create negative pressure and start
interfering with the venting for the (gas) heating and hot water systems?

that would depend on how well the rest of your house is sealed up . if its sealed really good around doors and windows then yes it may draw air in threw the chimneys ..... this is one reason why i am plaining on a inlet air from outside and venting directly outside so i dont need to worry about taking my heat or a/c from the house and dumping it outside . and it helps to get fresh air in there anyways


o yea ... i looked at those timers like shown a few posts above ... that looks like the hot ticket . i will deffenitly be getting one of those for my setup
 
you know, i asked the fantech folks about that (air intake)
and they simply said "what about your bathroom fans?
do you worry about them interfering with chimney action?"

now, we have a modern house (15 yrs old) so it is pretty well
sealed with tyvek wrap etc. but i don't know how to do the
computation of how those compare.
 
i would think a house well sealed would create some problems . my business is in about a 5500sqft building and one part has a fire place . and there is also a fan at one part of the building to remove welding fumes . well if a door or window is not cracked it will pull the smoke back threw the chimney into the building from the fireplace . but this is a bigger fan . about 24" diameter and pulls decent


also kinda thinking about it the small bathroom fans they dont have a big motor or anything to move the air . so im kinda thinking if there is not enough air to come into the building then the fan really is not working . if you catch what im saying .
 
for some reason, I have not received any updates on this thread.
This is where I am so far
I am in the finishing stages of my fish room here.
Primer coat goes on tomorrow, after paint is done, I will be checking my ventialtion system. I have (2) inline exhaust fans hooked up with one intake to the room all go outside the house. For heat control I should be able to move 200 cfm. For humidith control, I should be able to move 200cfm as well (if needed) in a room that is 1480 cubic feet. Hope this is enough..

Jim C.
 
Mr. Biggs
I have (2) units installed, that are rated at 200cfm each. That can be both be used for temp control if my inital concept does not work the way I hope it will. My inital plan is to run one for tem control, and the other dialed way down used for humidity control.
 
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