Algae reactor effectiveness

kenpau

New member
I've been battling a bit of nuisance algae (hair and cyano) for a few months now and although it is slowly getting better with aggressive use of GFO and a large clean up crew, I am still a bit confused as to the source of the nutrients.
I am running a 30 gallon system with a large sump, detector skimmer, GFO reactor and a carbon reactor. The system has been running for almost a year now.
I feed minimally, do 25% water changes weekly, Hanna tests show 0 phosphate and 0 nitrate (due to the presence of the algae, I'm guessing). All I can think of is that this phosphate is leaching from the rock I have.
During all my research about causes and cures of this algae I stumbled across an article about algae reactors. I'd love to have a long term filtration system that is more stable than using GFO and was wondering if anyone has any reports about the long term effectiveness of using an algae reactor.
I was looking at buying a Pax Bellum N18 which is a big outlay but will be cheaper than running GFO in the long term, I just would like to hear opinions from people that have run an algae reactor before I drop $900 on one.
As a side thought I'd love to get a mandarin and was wondering how effective the reactors were at sustaining a copepod population.
I'd appreciate any input 😀
 
Go with an algae turf scrubber, not reactor, and never look back. Here is my mixed SPS/LPS 150g. All I run is an ATS and a good Protien Skimmer. I don't dose, have fancy equipment, just good lighting, and good removal of excess nutrients, lots of live rock. I grow hair algae where I want to, to remove excess nutrients. I recently had to start removing corals to make room for others to grow.

I purchased my ATS from Turbo's Aquatics, which is run by a fellow RC member, Floyd R Turbo. It is the best and worth every penny.
 
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Go with an algae turf scrubber, not reactor, and never look back. Here is my mixed SPS/LPS 150g. All I run is an ATS and a good Protien Skimmer. I don't dose, have fancy equipment, just good lighting, and good removal of excess nutrients, lots of live rock. I grow hair algae where I want to, to remove excess nutrients. I recently had to start removing corals to make room for others to grow.

I purchased my ATS from Turbo's Aquatics, which is run by a fellow RC member, Floyd R Turbo. It is the best and worth every penny.

Too bad that algae scrubber is huge. Not everyone has that kind of space. My next tank will definitely have a bigger sump space.
 
The sump is a 30g, very small for a 150g. I run the same one on a 90g.

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I too have had great success with various types of scrubbers on several tanks, 13.5G to 80G. All DIY and all maintained low levels of NO3 and PO4. The beauty of scrubbers is that thy will automatically react to increased levels of pollutants without additional additions/changes.
 
The sump is a 30g, very small for a 150g. I run the same one on a 90g.

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Actually, I am wrong. They are 24g, that are repurposed wet/dry sumps.

Hey wildman what model ats do you have

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I have the L2 Rev3 from Turbos Aquatics. I have had it on approximately 5-7 years. It is the best made IMHO.
 
I have a 180 gallon with lifreef LF1-300S sump with lifreef svs24 skimmer and turbo aquatics l2 r4 scrubber ...would in your opinion be enough for a slightly heavy stocked spa tank

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i think an L4 would be more appropriate. you would be harvesting constantly with an L2 on a tank that size.
 
I have a 180 gallon with lifreef LF1-300S sump with lifreef svs24 skimmer and turbo aquatics l2 r4 scrubber ...would in your opinion be enough for a slightly heavy stocked spa tank

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i think an L4 would be more appropriate. you would be harvesting constantly with an L2 on a tank that size.

I harvest every 2 weeks on my 150g, sometimes I can go 3. Unlike skimmers, the larger the ATS the better, but without letting die off occur or it will leach back into the system.
 
to answer your question, yes an Arid can host pods. It’s not as efficient as using a fuge, neutrons it works.

I’ve run both an Arid and an ATS, and I will say, my preference was the arid. I had better performance overall, was able to harvest chaeto like crazy, and my nutrient levels came under control very quickly. My ATS did work, don’t get me wrong, but it didn’t live up to the hype or performance. Regardless, you’ll find success using either option.
 
to answer your question, yes an Arid can host pods. It's not as efficient as using a fuge, neutrons it works.

I've run both an Arid and an ATS, and I will say, my preference was the arid. I had better performance overall, was able to harvest chaeto like crazy, and my nutrient levels came under control very quickly. My ATS did work, don't get me wrong, but it didn't live up to the hype or performance. Regardless, you'll find success using either option.

My cheato died off due to the ATS' hair algae absorbing nutrients faster than the cheato.

I have 2 Cheato reactors for sale if interested. All you need is a pump.
 
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Thanks everyone for your replies. Growing algae for nutrient export is new to me but I'm looking forward to seeing how it works out.
I bought and installed an Pax Bellum ARID N18 yesterday, what an awesome piece of kit!
The system I was running before looked like this:

20190413_054040821_iOS by kenpau01, on Flickr

I was running a Phosban reactor, carbon dosing Aquaforest products, running zeolite stones and manually removing the hair algae during weekly water changes. However I couldn't get the system looking any cleaner than this:

20190413_055343833_iOS by kenpau01, on Flickr

20190413_055355325_iOS by kenpau01, on Flickr

20190413_055414618_iOS by kenpau01, on Flickr

So, carbon dosing is gone, GFO is gone, zeolite is gone and this has taken it's place:

20190413_072940820_iOS by kenpau01, on Flickr

20190413_073634194_iOS by kenpau01, on Flickr

I'm looking forward to algae growth, but hopefully in the reactor rather than the display!
 
While Coral Zoox like wavelenght in the Blue (435nm) and in the Red (657nm)...........Cyano and Algae like wavelenght in the yellow and green spectrum...........


Too much White in the Illumination can cause bloom.......cuz White have much yellow and green in the spectrum.....

Adequate PAR values and PAR distribution can help......you give the Corals the exact amount of light they require...........the excess can cause Algae and Cyano bloom......

try to measure the PAR..........
 
I have an L2 and love it. Clean it twice a month and it rocks. I need to start feeding more actually.


Corey
 
I have an L2 and love it. Clean it twice a month and it rocks. I need to start feeding more actually.


Corey

How big of a tank do you have yours on? What’s your photoperiod for it? I’ve got an L2 R4 for my 57 build and am nervous about depleting nutrients too aggressively with it.
 
Its on a 240 gallon cube. But it will only deplete what's in the tank which is based on the amount you feed. The size of the screen dictates how much you feed daily. I could feed more honestly.

Corey


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