Algae Scrubber Basics

[Spar]

For the initial break in period, don't worry much about the intensity, you just want to get light on the screen, and about any light will do really.

the rule of thumb for CFL is you want (minimum) the same total light on the screen as the LxW. So for 8x8=64, 64w total, or 32W per side, for 18 hours/day.

For "high intensity" CFL you would double that, and halve the hours (64W per side for 9 hours) but if you did this initially, you would cook the screen probably (photosaturation). Besides, you're looking at temporary lighting anyways.

I would just do a 23-26W 2700-3000K CFL in an 8 or 10" dome reflector on each side

sounds good thanks. my screen with mortar is currently sitting in water, so should know soon how quickly the algae picks up on the mortar! i will report.

 

[hkgar]

ya good point. hence why i/we (generally) use gate valves on beananimal drains. i am picking up parts today so will grab a gate valve and ball valve. union as well. worth the extra cost to not have to deal with issues later IMO/E.

Yup, forgot to mention the union. The union allows taking off the screen tube for cleaning.

Attache are a couple pics of my set up

 

[Spar]

I am using these rubber/plastic plumbing washer things to prevent water running down the pvc. Think it matters if the 'cup' of the washer faces inward or outward? I currently have it facing outward...

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

No I don't think it would matter which direction this faces

 

[hkgar]

If it works leave it alone, if it doesn't work reverse it and see what happens.

 

[Spar]

If it works leave it alone, if it doesn't work reverse it and see what happens.

well the issue is that i will have glued on the cap and other pvc parts... so it won't easily come off and go back on again... if even possible at all as they are already quite snug.

i think it will be fine.

 

[hkgar]

Gotcha.

 

[SantaMonica]

So you guys are discovering that an algae scrubber is more efficient at removing phosphates from the water column than a sump/fuge with chaeto or other fuge algae? Why does it have to be suspended & why not just submerged? Isn't it the same algae that grows on our rocks & fuge & comes in from reef plugs & coral rocks?

Why does algae grow in one spot in your tank, and not in anothe spot? The answer: the conditions for photosynthesis are better in the first spot. More photosynthesis = more filtering. That's also why all the filtering for the oceans occurs in the top 100 meters of water, because the photosynthesis is stronger there. This might help:

Scrubbers compared to refugiums

If you are starting a new tank, then the obvious difference is that a scrubber gives you the option of not having a fuge at all because an upflow scrubber can be placed on top of, in, or behind, the display. There are other uses for a sump/fuge of course, but we'll only cover the filtration concerns here.

A not-so-obvious difference is that a scrubber, if run together with a fuge with macros, will kill the macros even though the macros are much larger. This is because the scrubber thinks the macros are nuisance algae. Some people do run both together without killing the macros, but this is just because their scrubber is not strong enough, and actually the macros might even be slowing down the scrubber because the scrubber thinks it has to remove the macros, along with the nutrients in the water and the nuisance algae in the display. However if this works for them, good.

But assuming you have to decide on either a sump/fuge or a scrubber (not both)...

o Filtration with algae is proportional photosynthesis, which is proportional to Light X Air Water Turbulence Flow X Attachment. Meaning, stronger light grows more algae; stronger air/water interface turbulence grows more algae; and stronger attachment lets more algae grow without it detaching and floating away. A scrubber is thus designed to maximize Light, Flow, and Attachment.

o The main problem with macros in a refugium is the self-shading that the macros do. Any part of the macro which is not directly in front of the light at any moment is not filtering. And any macro inside of a "ball" of macro (like chaeto) is self-shaded all the time. Only the surface macro that is directly in front of the light is doing any real filtering. A scrubber is designed to have all the algae in front of the light at all times. Rotating the macro does not solve the problem, because the time that the macro is rotated away from the light is time that the macro is not filtering. This is why it takes a much larger size of chaeto to do the same filtering as a scrubber.

o Self-flow-blocking is another problem of macros in a refugium, for the same reason as light-blocking. And the thicker the "ball" of macro, the worse the flow-blocking.

o Particle trapping is another result of a ball of macro. These particles need to cycle back around to feed the corals, but instead they get trapped in the macro and they rot, and in doing so they block even more flow and light.

o With a scrubber, there is very little water standing in the way of the light. Also, the light is (or should be) very close to the scrubber... 4 inches (10cm) or less. The power of light varies with the inverse square of the distance, so going from 8" to 4" actually gives you 4X the power, not 2X. And the nutrient removal power of algae is proportional to the power of the light, because it's the photosynthesis that is doing the filtering.

o Rapid flow across the algae in a scrubber gives more delivery of nutrients, compared to the slow moving water in a fuge. Filtering is proportion to nutrient flow.

o The turbulence of water moving over the sections of algae in a scrubber help to remove the boundary layer of water around the algae. This boundary layer slows the transfer of metabolites in and out of the algae. There is no turbulence in a fuge (if there were, you'd have waves and bubbles). The interface between the air and water is what provides the most turbulence and boundary layer removal; there is no air/water interface in macros.

o Scrubbers do not let food particles settle like a refugium does; most particles flow right out of the scrubber.

o Scrubbers do not (if cleaned properly) release algal strands into display, like chaeto does.

o Scrubbers do not go sexual, like caulerpa can.

o Scrubbers do grow lots of pods; more than was previously thought, especially if not cleaned with freshwater.

o Scrubbers don't, obviously, provide a place for snails and crabs, etc.

However, if you already have a sump with an empty compartment, and you don't mind using all of it and putting a light over it, then maybe it's easier and cheaper to try macros first.

And...

Marine Biology Basics... the videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qfMaBeLwiO4 - Ocean Productivity
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7d96F0ak4uY - Photosynthesis part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTBlq3gUv5Y - Food Chains vs. Food Webs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwZDIU6sM_4& - Nutrients and Primary Production
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SnlCx7mVcZ4 - Chlorophyll
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtZ75KW2t-U - Zooplankton and Primary Production
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quH4x640Jgs - Bacteria
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdIjMQATQks - Food Webs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bc_fGWjmNeI - Microbial Food Web
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQaE0e0iD3s - Trophic Pyramids

 

[twon8]

Here is a string of 6 reds with a pair of blues in the middle, and a close up of the parallel wiring

May I ask what power supply you are using, along with any drivers? A picture would be great

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Just a meanwell LPC-35-700, you can get those just about anywhere (rapid, ebay, amazon, etc)

 

[hkgar]

What driver? And where do you get your heat sinks?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

What driver? And where do you get your heat sinks?

If you're asking me, I answered that in the post right above your. Heat sinks in the pics are MakersLED

 

[hkgar]

Sorry for my misunderstanding. When I went to Ebay and searched for meanwell LPC-35-700 it is described as a power supply. Upon further researching I found that is a power supply/driver. I have much to understand about how LEDs work and thought power supplies and drivers had to be separate parts.

 

[twon8]

Just a meanwell LPC-35-700, you can get those just about anywhere (rapid, ebay, amazon, etc)

Are you running two sets of LEDs on the one driver?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

I run 12 Deep Reds and the equivalent of 2 blues/violets on one driver. Can also take two of those arrays and parallel them together off of one driver so that they are both running at 50% current. But if you want to run 2 arrays of 12/2 then you need 2 drivers.

For a smaller scrubber you can take 2 arrays of 6/1 and parallel them together to run the LEDs at 50% current, then when you want more intensity you re-configure them so they are one series string.

 

[Spar]

has anyone had success with using just saran wrap to prevent water splashing out of the ATS? i tried some cling paper, but the water grabs it and pulls it down. i havent tried actual saran wrap yet, but will tonight to see if any better.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

yeah lots of people have, not sure what the difference is between cling paper and cling wrap, but you want the saran type and extend it about 1-2" below the slot/screen junction and wide enough to extend past the sides of the screen so that it sticks to itself and keeps itself in place.

 

[Spar]

yeah lots of people have, not sure what the difference is between cling paper and cling wrap, but you want the saran type and extend it about 1-2" below the slot/screen junction and wide enough to extend past the sides of the screen so that it sticks to itself and keeps itself in place.

oh, i was envisioning this as going all the way down, but I suppose it is only necessary in the first couple inches.

here is my attempt at covering the entire screen:

It still does actually cascade all the way down nicely, but probably too much.

 

[hkgar]

I built a box for it.

 

[Spar]

I built a box for it.

ya that is on my short term goals.