algae
- Thread starter sdsheeks
- Start date
cowcio
New member
I think I noticed some algae on the frags I got from you from the swap
I hope that you get that taken care of. BTW.... one of the polyps I got from you was a single pink paly. It was a light pink with a whiteish skirt. It is one of the best finds from the swap for me.
The polyp I got from you doesn't seem to be doing well, but 2 baby polyps have bud since then and I think they are going to turn out just fine. Where did you get these polyps, do you have a large colony of them?
hllywd
Premier World Traveler
I've got a yellow tang in QT right now to help with mine. My tank kind of went out of control when my PBT died, It seems he was keeping the hair algae in check.... I have, in the past sucessfully kept a yellow for 2 or 3 years in my 30. I know it's kind of small but it worked for me.
Briney Dave
New member
take great care here, I have brysophysis algae that appears similar to hair algae, but you will sell your soul to get rid of.
If it is hair algae: combine a series of water changes, with making sure the skimmer is working right and the right size with blue legs and if need persists a lettuce nudibrach or better if its only hair a couple emerald crabs
A small Kole tang will mow through it like crazy and look great but may out grow your tank down the road
if , on the other hand, you have the spawn of evil bryso then good luck to you and pm me for help
do a search to find what each looks like
hair is very soft to the touch while bryso is fiberous and course plus hard to pull off the rocks
briney
If it is hair algae: combine a series of water changes, with making sure the skimmer is working right and the right size with blue legs and if need persists a lettuce nudibrach or better if its only hair a couple emerald crabs
A small Kole tang will mow through it like crazy and look great but may out grow your tank down the road
if , on the other hand, you have the spawn of evil bryso then good luck to you and pm me for help
do a search to find what each looks like
hair is very soft to the touch while bryso is fiberous and course plus hard to pull off the rocks
briney
sdsheeks
New member
It looks like this:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/Algae and Plt Pix/Green Algae/hair algae tank wwm.JPG
Briney Dave
New member
I can't look at any of the images but if it is hair then you are going to be fine, you just have some nutrient issues to take care of. do the water changes weekly invest in a cleaning crew. and r/o water is a must for most places
selgado
Premium Member
Dave, what is fueling the algae growth? There is a big possibility that adding livestock will only put a bandaid on the problem. Sure the tang may munch the algae, but remember, the algae will be put back into your tank in the form of tang poo which may have a snowball effect.
michaelm2431
New member
Water changes with ro/di and a lawnmower blenny, worked for me.
Briney Dave
New member
clearly correct, I was working on the assumption that water changes were not being done at the correct level or that the skimmer was either too small or not functioning correctly.
Phosphates and nitrates combine to allow algeas to run amuck (especially hairs)
what I did not notice is how much live rock is present and if there is a refu on the system along with the bottom substrate. too large of substrate particles can be a nutrient trap, along with bio-balls in a filtering system also trap nutrients. also on my mind is the type of lighting, the age of the bulbs, and the photo-period.
1.5-2 lbs of live rock per gallon, 4-6 inches of very fine grain sand bed, bulbs under 8 months of age and of a temperature range that does not promote algae i.e. 10,000 K or higher
needed is propper water movement, skimming and water changes plus putting back water free of the above to limiting nutrients is the way to prevent the spread. (R/O)
the cleaning crew keeps up with what the live rock bacteria allows to pass. overall a balance between what is being produced and decomposed needs to be reached.
in a nut shell cut the photo day down for a few weeks to six hours or so, watch how much food you are feeding the fish, cut it down if possible and avoid the flakes if possible.
water change once a week of at least 10% with r/0 water
look for other sources of nutrient traps such as the gravel being too course, having bio balls etc.
make sure the lights are propper for a reef tank and not too old
make sure that there is enough water movement through the tank and no dead spots. The surface should be in constant motion.
the cleaning crew will help to maintain the balance not solve a problem. These creatures work with the bacteria of the sand and live rock to control. The front line is the bacteria breaking down the nutrients, the cleaning crew keeps back and little bits that would remain
there are many good articles around the r/c and many much more qualified to speak on this subject than I but I think I am pointing you in the right direction
sorry I was too brief before I assume too much some times
your pal
Briney
Phosphates and nitrates combine to allow algeas to run amuck (especially hairs)
what I did not notice is how much live rock is present and if there is a refu on the system along with the bottom substrate. too large of substrate particles can be a nutrient trap, along with bio-balls in a filtering system also trap nutrients. also on my mind is the type of lighting, the age of the bulbs, and the photo-period.
1.5-2 lbs of live rock per gallon, 4-6 inches of very fine grain sand bed, bulbs under 8 months of age and of a temperature range that does not promote algae i.e. 10,000 K or higher
needed is propper water movement, skimming and water changes plus putting back water free of the above to limiting nutrients is the way to prevent the spread. (R/O)
the cleaning crew keeps up with what the live rock bacteria allows to pass. overall a balance between what is being produced and decomposed needs to be reached.
in a nut shell cut the photo day down for a few weeks to six hours or so, watch how much food you are feeding the fish, cut it down if possible and avoid the flakes if possible.
water change once a week of at least 10% with r/0 water
look for other sources of nutrient traps such as the gravel being too course, having bio balls etc.
make sure the lights are propper for a reef tank and not too old
make sure that there is enough water movement through the tank and no dead spots. The surface should be in constant motion.
the cleaning crew will help to maintain the balance not solve a problem. These creatures work with the bacteria of the sand and live rock to control. The front line is the bacteria breaking down the nutrients, the cleaning crew keeps back and little bits that would remain
there are many good articles around the r/c and many much more qualified to speak on this subject than I but I think I am pointing you in the right direction
sorry I was too brief before I assume too much some times
your pal
Briney
