AlgaeFix Marine to control Hair Algae

LOL! $50.00 not bad. My biggest challange if getting money from my wife to buy it! hehehe! right now she is not happy since she is seeing the corals (my point of view)/the money (her point of view) down the drain! wish me luck! thank you guys.

I'm out of town, but my wife will dose the tank tonight, which will be the fourth dose. I will keep you guys updated - I hope I dont lose anymore corals!


I would get the refractometer ASAP, and see if you can transfer your corals to another tank. Because if you're WAY off, it will take some time for the salinity to either drop or rise. And you may loose more in this process.


I'd stop dosing if it were me, until you get a calibrated refractometer. And no, using RODI to calibrate is not an accurate way to do it. Get calibration fluid.
 
use of algaecides

use of algaecides

I've tried them. They work. I believe they also caused my soft corals to dwindle. I therefore no longer use them. Most of the corals bounced back after discontinuing these products. The products I used were Algaefix and Algae Magic.
 
jpedersenjim,

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Algae Magic
--------------
INGREDIENTS:
Vitamins: B-complex, Beta-Carotene, C, Cyanobalamine, D, Folic Acid, Iodine, K, Niacin, Pyridoxin, Retinol, Riboflavin, Thiamin, Tocopherol
Minerals: Ca, Cl, Cr, Cu, Fe, K, Mg, Mn, Na, P, S, Se, Si, Zn
Derived from ferment of: Acacia Gum, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera), Asparagus Officinalus (Asparagus), Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea), Citic Acid, Citrus Molasses, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber), Curcurbita (Squash), Daucus Carota (Carrot), Ipmoea Batatas (Sweet Potato), Lycoperscion (Tomato), Sea-Vegetables, Triticum (wheat) plus added to the ferment are the micro aggregates of Oolite, Volcanic, and Hematite



They've seemed to have forgotten the kitchen sink in their mixture. At least they list their active ingredients. ;)
 
The heavy metals listed in the Algae Magic will kill algae at high enough levels. What kind of algae did this kill in your tank? Do you have any shrimp, snails or crabs in your tank?
 
I've been following this thread for a few months while I tried other methods of
fighing Green Hair Algae. My nitrates are 0. I don't bother testing for phosphates as I know that you can test really low but it's a false reading because it's tied up in the algae. I do run phosban in a TLF reactor. I try
not to overfeed. Rinse food. RO/DI water with 0 TDS, T5's and MH are 6 months old. Actually, this GHA problem didn't start until I put in new bulbs. Same brand as I used before the outbreak. Tried a Tuxedo Urchin. Blah Blah Blah.
I don't have a massive outbreak of GHA, but enough that it makes me nervous that it could become a major problem if I don't take care of it now. You can see patches of the GHA on my rock in the pics below, but take a look at my overflow on the right side of the tank, and a great close up shot of the GHA on the overflow in the 2nd picture. It's COVERED in GHA !! I did my first dose last night and all LPS corals, my Crocea clam, my huge Sabae Anemone and all fish look good. One silly question.... I know I'm supposed to dose every 3 days, but is that every 72 hours, or every 3rd day? I assumed since I dosed last night on Wednesday, that I'd dose again after 72 hours on Saturday, but now I'm wondering if it's on the 3rd day which would be Friday??? I did clean off 95% of the GHA on the overflow tonight with a metal brush, 24 hours after my first dose of AlgaeFix and siphoned off as much as I could into a filter sock in the sump. The GHA came off the overflow really easy, but not so easy yet off the rock. I'll update the thread with photos as I progress through the doses of Algaefix. Pam

GreenHairAlgaeBeforeAlgaeFix11-5-20.jpg


GreenHairAlgaeBeforeAlgaeFix11-5-1.jpg


GreenHairAlgaeBeforeAlgaeFix11-5-2.jpg


GreenHairAlgaeBeforeAlgaeFix11-5-3.jpg


GreenHairAlgaeBeforeAlgaeFix11-5-4.jpg
 
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If you dosed Wednesday, then you will dose next on Saturday. ;)

Most hobbyists seem to see good results around the 5th dose.

Keep us posted on your results and good luck. :)
 
Thanks Cliff. :) I included some pictures of the rock that doesn't have much GHA on it, so everyone could get an idea of the level of GHA outbreak I have. All of the pictures were taken at the same time, but you can see in some pictures, it looks like I don't have much GHA at all, but when you see the overflow...YIKES!!! What I don't want, is for my rocks to get to that level of infestation that you see on the overflow. Looks MUCH better since I just got all of that GHA off of the overflow last night. I was really afraid to try the AlgaeFix because of my Anemone, Clam, and Pistol Shrimp but it seems people haven't had problems with them and AlgaeFix. Nothing seemed phased at all after the first dose of Algaefix. Before I had the GHA, I battled Lobophora for quite a long time...at least 6 months, maybe a year.
A Sally Lightfoot crab eradicated the Lobo very quickly once I added it to the tank, then I had a heck of time catching it to get the crab OUT of my tank!! Gave it away to another reefer. The Lobo never came back. Not even a speck of it, and I was completely algae free for at least 6 months, and then GHA started creeping up and getting worse and worse. I was overdue on changing out my bulbs and RO/DI filters (even though I still had 0 TDS showing on my Spectrapure RO/DI). It wasn't until AFTER (very soon after) I changed the bulbs and RO/DI filters that the GHA started popping up. I don't know if the GHA was already starting to germinate in my tank and the extra light from the new bulbs made it take off or what, but I didn't have it with the old bulbs. I was trying to change everything BEFORE I got into trouble with an Algae outbreak, and instead, it seemed to fuel it. Just FYI....I have a 150watt Reflux 12k MH bulb, and 4 24w T5s - (UVL and ATI)

Pam


Pam,

Forgot to add: nice pictures you have provided. Very nice tank and inhabitants. :)
 
I had a thought.... I read where someone was squirting the AlgaeFix directly into the Algae. I'm not going to try that yet, unless I get a stubborn area of algae, but it got me thinking.. I decided for my dose #2 tomorrow, I'm going to turn off my return pump right before I dose, and then turn it back on after an hour. Figured, that would give the AlgaeFix an hour in the display where the Algae is, and it won't go through the sump and skimmer etc. Don't know if it will make a difference or not, but it kind of makes sense to me. Keep the AlgaeFix isolated to the Display for the first hour. I turned off my TLF reactor with Phosban and Seachem DeNitrate (which works GREAT by the way) for 24 hours after dosing, and then turned it back on. Since AlgaeFix supposedly is in your system for only 24 hours, I thought, why keep the Reactor with GFO turned off the whoe time? Why not just turn it off for 24 hours, every time I dose. So, that's my plan. Turn return pump off right before I dose and turn it back on an hour later, Turn my TLF with GFO off right before I dose and turn it back on 24 hours later, keep skimmer running as usual the entire time (which didn't react any differently than it usually does after I dosed AlgaeFix).

Pam
 
The only concern I would have is if you turn your return off and the chemical does not disperse properly. Perhaps certain areas in your tank may get to high a dose without proper circulation to distribute it. Even when hobbyists use a turkey baster to add it directly to algal areas, the product will still disperse fairly quickly as long as there is adequate flow. :)

Turning off GFO and GAC can possibly benefit the dosing of AF.

Removing as much algae as you can before dosing is a big plus IMHO. ;)
 
I have two Tunze 6025 powerheads and a MaxiJet 1200 in the display (53 gallons). Would you think that would be enough to disperse the AlgaeFix with the return turned off ? (return pump is a Eheim 1262). The two Tunzes are on opposite sides of the tank (31" wide) facing each other, and the MaxiJet 1200 is at the bottom of the tank behind the rocks, facing diaganally up towards the surface of the water. The surface of the water really churns. :)
I was planning on pouring the AlgaeFix (1 tsp) directly in front of one of the Tunzes. Or do you think it would be better to leave the return pump on, and just turn off the skimmer for an hour after dosing?

Pam

The only concern I would have is if you turn your return off and the chemical does not disperse properly. Perhaps certain areas in your tank may get to high a dose without proper circulation to distribute it. Even when hobbyists use a turkey baster to add it directly to algal areas, the product will still disperse fairly quickly as long as there is adequate flow. :)

Turning off GFO and GAC can possibly benefit the dosing of AF.

Removing as much algae as you can before dosing is a big plus IMHO. ;)
 
FWIW, most of the hobbyists simply add the AF as recommended per the label to high flow areas to allow it to mix properly. If the AlgaeFix is going to kill your specie of algae then it works. If it does not work on your specie I would not continue dosing too much longer then 10 doses.

I don't believe there is a need to turn off skimmers or pumps. The exception would be to cut off the GAC and GFO during dosing per Randy's comments that these materials can absorb the product.
 
Just to re cap, here is some more algae I just collected from my algae trough. This grew since I last posted a picture. Of course there is much more than pictured but I like to leave algae in there to help me purify the water.
OK have fun

urchin014.jpg
 
I am currently reading this thread and am through pg14. I will be reading the rest....however, I have been dealing with GHA for over a year now. I have done everything imaginable. I have been through 4 bottles of algefix with no luck. I think I might have some strange swine-flu strain of this crap.
I have an 85gal right now and my new 150 will be delivered next month. I plan on bleaching everything in my current system in plans for re-using some of the stuff in the new tank. Rocks, filters and the 85gal tank will become the sump.
Some question I have concerning the GHA:
Cooking the rocks: Does this kill the spores? Seems kinda pointless to cook the rocks if the spores that are imbedded in the porous rocks will just germinate when they get the proper lighting. You can take care of the current “trees” that are there but does it also kill the seeds/spores? (Reminds me of the "seed vault" in the arctic. Google it to see what I mean)
What is the time from germination to the time GHA can Re-seed (Spore)? This brings up the question of re-dosing frequency. Dosing has to occur at a rate less than the germinate-to-re-seed time frame of the pest. I.E. if a pest has a germinate to re-seed time of 48 hours and we dose algefix every 72 hours then the pest will, in theory, never be eliminated from the system. I understand each pest will have different times frames but I have not seen this issue addressed in the first 15 pages of the thread.
I have taken out all my rocks twice and cleaned them of the GHA. The first time i used a brush. This time (two weeks ago) i used a 1600 PSI pressure washer. Yes I am breaking out the big guns. Napalm is my next step. All my PO4 and NO3 have always read 0. Right now I see zero GHA in my tank...obviously because I blasted them off the rocks with the pressure washer. For my second trick...I dosed algefix again today. I have to search through my photos of the last year or so and see if I can come up with some pictures worthy of posting to ID this stuff. It looks just like all the other GHA stuff in this thread though. Unfortunately what I am doing I won’t see the fruits of the labor since this tank will be broken down in about 2 weeks to prepare for the new 150. But as much pain as this stuff has caused me….i am gonna keep beating on it till the last moment. I am still fighting this so that if/when it occurs in the future I already know how I can deal with it.
 
tralynne,

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Sorry to hear about this pest problem you have. :(

Unfortunately AlgaeFix does not kill all algae as you have experienced. FWIW, I have experienced the same problem with my pest (Derbesia, I believe). The AlgaeFix did not control this pest either. It has taken me over a year to finally get the Derbesia under control. It is still present in my tank, but well under control. What the factors were that actually controlled it, I am not sure, since I implemented so many. The siphoning algae are particularly hard to control, since they heal themselves so easily. They do look very similar to many of the easily controlled algae. ;)

In my tank the phosphates are reading lower than I can measure using a Hach PO-19 kit. This is important in gaining control of algae. My nitrates were high at 50 ppm when I finally gained control, so I don't think the nitrates have a lot to do with it. Go figure. The largest impact on controlling this algal pest seemed to be the combination of reducing my feeding to once every three days and the low phosphates. I did remove several fish which were large feeders also. I stopped dosing vinegar (carbon sources) completely. Now I have been dosing sugar to gain control of the nitrates without incurring algae growth. Perhaps once my nitrate level is down to a zero reading, it may have impact on the remaining Derbesia in my tank. We will see. My nitrate is currently around 20 ppm with no effect. :)

If you are going to start over, I would soak your rock in bleach to kill both the vegetative stage and hopefully the spores. Cooking rock will not work in eradicating the pest. Soaking any equipment that came into contact with your pest would be advisable, including hoses that the water runs through. I would repeat the bleach soaking several times and clean off the pest in between.
 
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I'm a week into using AlgaeFix. Tonight will be dose #3. Last night was the first time I had to clean my glass in the past 5 days. I normally need to clean it every other day, but after 5 days, I was just starting to see a little algae on the glass. I'd say about the amount of algae on the glass after 5 days, was what I'd normally see 36 hours after cleaning the glass. So...I took that as a good sign, because if it's keeping algae off the glass, it's doing something to the algae on the rocks. I scrubbed about 95% of the GHA off my overflow 24 hours after my first dose of AlgaeFix and suctioned as much of it as I could into a filter sock in my sump. So far, it doesn't appear to be growing back on the overflow. Right now, the tips of all the GHA in my tank looks singed. I took a turkey baster last night to blow off the rocks, and I noticed some of the longer GHA blowing right off the rock. Normally it's attached really well to the rock, so that's a GREAT sign !! I also manually pulled some of the longer GHA last night. So far, so good and I don't see any stress to any of my fish, corals (LPS and some zoos) and inverts (Crocea Clam, huge Sabae Anemone, Sandsifting starfish, Pistol Shrimp, Tuxedo Urchin, Queen Conch, Nacarrius, Cerith, Astrea and Bumblebee snails, scarlett crabs).
Pam
 
I have been battling GHA in my 35 Hex for the better part of 9 months, I run a sump, skimmer, GFO, GAC, Purigen, and a 8" Deep Sand Bed in a bucket. At the very worst my tank looked like the amazon rainforest. I will try to post some pictures of the worst and current pictures as well tommarrow. When I do water changes I pull and siphon out what I can reach. I started using the algaefix about 6 weeks ago, so i'm about 18 or so doses in. Although the GHA has reduced in its density it is still a plague that refuses to be destroyed. All of my rocks both in my display and in my sump have some degree of coverage, the shell of my clam, my shells on my crabs and snails all have GHA growth on them. I don't know if I have to have more patience for this process, I've read others success after 5-8 doses. I'm thinking about tearing down the whole system and restarting with fresh sand and fresh rocks and cooking the rocks I currently have for future reintroduction into the tank.
 
SinlessHarbor,

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If AlgaeFix has not worked at this point for you, then it will probably not achieve control your algal pest. If you decide to start over, I would use the acid/bleach treatment on your rock, sand and equipment. Cooking rock will not kill algal pests.

To recap what you should be doing to try and gain control of your pest:

There are a lot of hobbyists in your same position. Reducing your nitrate and phosphate levels to a zero reading will help in getting rid of many type of

algae pests. IME, reducing nitrate and phosphate levels too low can kill or cause problems for many types of coral. Running GAC & GFO will all help in

reducing the growth of these type of pests. In many cases they will not eradicate the pest. Vodka dosing will help reduce the nitrate and phosphate

levels also, but will not necessarily eradicate the pest either.

A common problem is being able to identify your pest to a catagory correctly: true algae, cyano, dino, bacteria & other assorted pests that look similar.

In many cases a micro look at your pest is best to properly ID it to one of these catagories.

IMHO, if you are faced with an algal type pest problem, it is best to implement an algae pest control program strategy:


1) Wet skimming with a good quality skimmer. Clean your skimmer cup at least once per week.

2) Reduce your nitrates and phosphates to a zero reading using the hobby grade test kits. See Randy's articles regarding this:

Phosphate and the Reef Aquarium
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm

3) Proper lighting. I find that the higher wavelength bulbs are less conducive to algae growth. I now run 20,000 K bulbs from using 10,000 K bulbs.

4) Proper day length is a good thing also. I would not run your lights for more than 12 hrs total. Keep in mind that light entering from a window nearby

is added to this figure.

5) Running GAC is a good practice in my book. It will help reduce the total dissolved organic carbons in your tank water and this is a food source.

6) Proper 30% per month total water changes will help export the DOC as well as some of the pests in the water column. It will help maintain the

micro-nutrients as well.

7) Physical removal of the pest by hand, scrubbing and siphoning is important as well. If the amount of pest in your aquarium is overwhelming, perhaps

dealing with one section at a time is a better idea.

8) Proper water circulation in your tank to prevent dead zones. When dealing with cyanobacteria pests increasing the flow where it grows seems to help.

9) Use RODI water for all top-off, salt mixing, additive mixes... etc.

10) Dosing iron may have benefits for macro-algae, but if you are experiencing algae pest problems than I would stop dosing it as it can add to the

problem in many cases.

11) If you are dosing other supplements such as vitamins, amino acids, or others that contain a mix of supplements other than the basic alk., calcium and

magnesium, I would stop these until you gain control of your pest. This includes many of the store bought products with unknown ingredients. Dosing Vodka

or sugar to reduce your nitrates and phosphates would be an exception in my opinion.

12) Proper feeding habits. This can be the number one problem when trying to reduce your nitrate and phosphate levels. Use low phosphate fish foods.

13) IMHO, lighted refugiums may be a problem when trying to deal with an algae type pest problem. They are wonderful when it comes to reducing nitrates

and phosphates. However, the light over most refugiums is conducive to the microalgae type pests. If the refugium becomes infested with a microalgae

pest, I would clean it throughly of all pests as best as possible, remove the macro and turn off the lights until you gain control of your pest. Re-using

the same macroalgae later may serve as a source for re-infestation of your pest.

14) Adding fish and other creatures that will eat your algae pest will help.

15) There are other items that can be added to this list if others care too share and some of the items listed may be disputed.
 
I do currently run my skimmer on the wetter side, I'm running a 150W 14K MH going to switch to a 20K soon. I run my MH on display and PC on my sump 7 hours a day and blue leds on display 9 hours a day 2 hours prior, during, and 2 hours after MH cycle. Since my tank is a hex I get pretty good flow from my 2 Korolia 1's. I only use RODI water, and I do 5 gallon water changes every 5 days.

I have been toying with the idea of getting a turbo twist UV sterilizer to kill the spores in the water since the algaefix dosn't kill the spores.

I know a guy that swears he has stomatella snails that devour hair algae, even though I've heard that they don't eat it. I think he's crazy cause he's going to take one of my GHA covered rocks and put it in his system to prove to me that it will be GHA free in a few weeks, if that works hopefully I can populate my tank with his super snails and rid my system of this plague.
 
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