pugbreath13
In Memoriam
Yes thats it.
I posted above before I saw your post.
Thank you so much!
I posted above before I saw your post.
Thank you so much!
AlgaeFix Marine to control Hair Algae
- Thread starter HighlandReefer
- Start date
HighlandReefer
Team RC
I have been defeated by my derbesia at this point. I have not tried elevating my mag level yet. I can keep it under control, but if I get lazy it comes back and will overtake quite a territory. For me it takes a least weekly maintenance. AlgaeFix did not have much effect on it. 
HighlandReefer
Team RC
One thing I have noticed about derbesia is that most healthy coral can keep it away a very short distance. Some coral (mushroom & cabbage coral) keep the derbesia away on large rocks. Therefore I assume some toxin that is commonly produced by coral will control derbesia. The problem is which chemical is doing it and how toxic is it to other inhabitants.
Perhaps I should try placing mushroom & cabbage coral throughout my tank. :lol:
Perhaps this is why some hobbyists can control derbesia in their tanks, if they have the right coral on their rocks, then maintenance would be much easier. Biological control at its finest.
Perhaps I should try placing mushroom & cabbage coral throughout my tank. :lol:
Perhaps this is why some hobbyists can control derbesia in their tanks, if they have the right coral on their rocks, then maintenance would be much easier. Biological control at its finest.
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redfishsc
New member
The Tech- M "M-bomb" worked well. For a while. Then the bryopsis came back.
I didn't eradicate it. I didn't have enough left to do the job again, only a half-dose, which only half worked.
I had some surprising success with very aggressive Vitamin C dosing (1/2 tsp 3X a day, 45g water volume in the system at the time) but the buffer agent in the VC drove my alk up to 15 in under a week, so I had to halt. My goal was to drive phosphate as low as possible, and it may have worked, or the VC may have actually caused some problems directly for the bryopsis. Either way, stuff started dying in droves, but when I cut back the dosing (for fear of alk-overage) the bryo just came back.
This stuff just keeps coming and I'm getting madder. My goal is to get the SPS growth in the tank high enough that I have a lot of alk consumption, so that I can return to VC dosing heavy.
Until then I'm using sucrose and VC as my dosing regimen, keeps phosphates low (according to the seachem kit) but the bryo keeps growing.
I am very close to setting up a small tank with some low-cost SPS and soft corals, and a big rock covered in bryopsis, and start a copper sulfate test to see if very low, very controlled, very well monitored concentrations will do the trick. Tech M used to list copper in it's "ingredient" list and it's been suspected a time or two.
Any suggestions for what test kit would be best, and what level to shoot for?
redfishsc
New member
FWIW, I just treated a patch of bryopsis that is totally engulfing a frag of zoanthids. I took about 1/4 pint of tank water, added in 1/8 tsp of buffered Sodium Ascorbate and soaked them (zoanthids and all) in this solution for 20 minutes. The zoas closed up, but these are a particularly tough variety, so I'm hoping they pull through (if not, I have lots more where they came from, lol).
I'm hoping to see by this somewhat pitiful experiment if the VC has any affect on bryopsis in high concentrations, and what happens to the coral.
I base this only on the anecdotal even described in my post above.
At this point I'm about to order some Purple Up, an Eco-aqualizer, a Sham-wow, and maybe some concentrated snake oil. Maybe dosing all at once and scrubbing the rocks with the Sham-wow will help me lose weight, kill the bryopsis, and provide $5K a month in work-at-home income.
I'm hoping to see by this somewhat pitiful experiment if the VC has any affect on bryopsis in high concentrations, and what happens to the coral.
I base this only on the anecdotal even described in my post above.
At this point I'm about to order some Purple Up, an Eco-aqualizer, a Sham-wow, and maybe some concentrated snake oil. Maybe dosing all at once and scrubbing the rocks with the Sham-wow will help me lose weight, kill the bryopsis, and provide $5K a month in work-at-home income.
redfishsc
New member
FWIW, I just treated a patch of bryopsis that is totally engulfing a frag of zoanthids. I took about 1/4 pint of tank water, added in 1/8 tsp of buffered Sodium Ascorbate and soaked them (zoanthids and all) in this solution for 20 minutes. The zoas closed up, but these are a particularly tough variety, so I'm hoping they pull through (if not, I have lots more where they came from, lol).
I'm hoping to see by this somewhat pitiful experiment if the VC has any affect on bryopsis in high concentrations, and what happens to the coral.
I base this only on the anecdotal even described in my post above.
At this point I'm about to order some Purple Up, an Eco-aqualizer, a Sham-wow, and maybe some concentrated snake oil. Maybe dosing all at once and scrubbing the rocks with the Sham-wow will help me lose weight, kill the bryopsis, and provide $5K a month in work-at-home income.
I'm hoping to see by this somewhat pitiful experiment if the VC has any affect on bryopsis in high concentrations, and what happens to the coral.
I base this only on the anecdotal even described in my post above.
At this point I'm about to order some Purple Up, an Eco-aqualizer, a Sham-wow, and maybe some concentrated snake oil. Maybe dosing all at once and scrubbing the rocks with the Sham-wow will help me lose weight, kill the bryopsis, and provide $5K a month in work-at-home income.
redfishsc
New member
I thought about that, and may try, but sodium ascorbate has a pH of around 4, if I'm not mistaken, and I don't know what risks I'd be taking with a pH crash by dosing enough to take effect.
It's something to consider, but I have already had (possible) success with the buffered stuff, so maybe mixing them half-n-half will get me in the right balance.
I'll watch the frag I "C-bombed" earlier. The zoas are open like normal now. No real change in the bryopsis at this point other than some of the fronds having dark spots on them, but I don't know if that's something that's been there all alone or if it's actually something "changed".
It's something to consider, but I have already had (possible) success with the buffered stuff, so maybe mixing them half-n-half will get me in the right balance.
I'll watch the frag I "C-bombed" earlier. The zoas are open like normal now. No real change in the bryopsis at this point other than some of the fronds having dark spots on them, but I don't know if that's something that's been there all alone or if it's actually something "changed".
redfishsc
New member
Adding baking soda is adding alkalinity, which would be what I'm trying to avoid. The buffered vitamin C probably uses either baking soda, or soda ash (ie, sodium bicarbonate or sodium carbonate) as the buffer.
Aside from that, baking soda actually will only allow a pH of around 7.6 if I'm not mistaken since it has a lot of carbon dioxide in it.
Aside from that, baking soda actually will only allow a pH of around 7.6 if I'm not mistaken since it has a lot of carbon dioxide in it.
I had both a break out of bryopsis and despersia in a new 95 gallon that I had setup this past summer. The bryopsis likely came from the fact that it was a used tank (this stuff is tough!!). I believe the despersia came from me switching salt mixes and had used it in making water for this tank.
Anyways, I used the Kent TechM trick to kill bryopsis. I maintained mg levels of about 1700 for a month. After about 3 weeks and all the brypsis was dead, I started dosing AF as I had read a thread in another forum that it worked on his despersia. My mg was still around 1700 and I saw an immediate reaction from my HA to AF after about 4 or so doses.
My belief is that a combination of the 2 does seem to kill the stuff. Me raising my mag to 1700 for almost a month using Kent TechM did nothing to the despersia. It only killed the bryopsis. It wasn't until I started AF was I able to eradicate the despersia.
My 65 gallon tank that I have upstairs on the other hand also had despersia (no bryopsis). Using only AF, I haven't been able to kill it. I have been slowly raising my mag and weekly 20% water changes have I slowly started been getting a hold on it.
My gut feeling is that it takes both products to kill despersia but that's only based on my experience from my 2 tanks so please take it FWIW.
Anyways, I used the Kent TechM trick to kill bryopsis. I maintained mg levels of about 1700 for a month. After about 3 weeks and all the brypsis was dead, I started dosing AF as I had read a thread in another forum that it worked on his despersia. My mg was still around 1700 and I saw an immediate reaction from my HA to AF after about 4 or so doses.
My belief is that a combination of the 2 does seem to kill the stuff. Me raising my mag to 1700 for almost a month using Kent TechM did nothing to the despersia. It only killed the bryopsis. It wasn't until I started AF was I able to eradicate the despersia.
My 65 gallon tank that I have upstairs on the other hand also had despersia (no bryopsis). Using only AF, I haven't been able to kill it. I have been slowly raising my mag and weekly 20% water changes have I slowly started been getting a hold on it.
My gut feeling is that it takes both products to kill despersia but that's only based on my experience from my 2 tanks so please take it FWIW.
redfishsc
New member
A picture of Despersia-marinea which seems to be a common pest in reef tanks:
From my experience, AlgaeFix does not work on the derbesia.
Is despersia a "derbesia" typo, or is it a different strand of algae? I have seen a few folks mentioning "despersia" and I have never heard of it.
I'm not sure how switching salt mixes can introduce an algae strain....???
Not a bad idea at all. I'd be watching the corals very closely though just in case the double-whammy didn't cause them undue stress.
HighlandReefer
Team RC
Sp. Derbesia. :lol:
I hadn't thought about using AF & raising the mag. level. Certainly something as a last resort & removing anything valuable. It's worth a try. Let us know how it works for you.
Interested in the Vit C. procedure too.
I've been thinking about trying to raise the copper level in my tank. The problem is there is no adequate test kit that I am aware of. Guessing at your tank copper level can be off enough, since the level you may want to try is very close to killing things. I have only seen copper toxicity to algae noted in a few research papers. Haven't seen anything for derbesia. The papers I have read show quite a wide variance in copper toxicity to algae. Some are quite low, while others can be too high for use in a reef aquarium. If I could find a reliable copper test kit for the range we are looking at I would give it a try. The only other way of using copper I can think of would be to add small doses & watch the results. Keep increasing the amount you add in small amounts but spaced far enough apart to allow the copper level to return close to normal. I would remove all valuable shirmp and use a few cheap shrimp as a monitor.
Maybe use a polyfilter between dosages to help brings things back to normal copper levels.
Talk about playing with fire. :lol:
I hadn't thought about using AF & raising the mag. level. Certainly something as a last resort & removing anything valuable. It's worth a try. Let us know how it works for you.
Interested in the Vit C. procedure too.
I've been thinking about trying to raise the copper level in my tank. The problem is there is no adequate test kit that I am aware of. Guessing at your tank copper level can be off enough, since the level you may want to try is very close to killing things. I have only seen copper toxicity to algae noted in a few research papers. Haven't seen anything for derbesia. The papers I have read show quite a wide variance in copper toxicity to algae. Some are quite low, while others can be too high for use in a reef aquarium. If I could find a reliable copper test kit for the range we are looking at I would give it a try. The only other way of using copper I can think of would be to add small doses & watch the results. Keep increasing the amount you add in small amounts but spaced far enough apart to allow the copper level to return close to normal. I would remove all valuable shirmp and use a few cheap shrimp as a monitor.
Maybe use a polyfilter between dosages to help brings things back to normal copper levels.
Talk about playing with fire. :lol:
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HighlandReefer
Team RC
I have been giving some thought about using selected corals in my tank as biological control for my derbesia problem. The left side of my rock pile has little derbesia on it. The small cheap purple mushrooms seem to do a good job. I have quite a few of these mushroom now. I was thinking about placing them on some heavily infested derbesia areas and see what kind of results I get. The derbesia does not grow on my sand. It does grow on the glass, but that is easy to control. Any thoughts about how to best experiment with this method?
HighlandReefer
Team RC
FWIW, These purple mushrooms seem to keep cyano at bay also.
I have heard they are pretty hot (toxic). :lol:
I have heard they are pretty hot (toxic). :lol:
pugbreath13
In Memoriam
After you told me this yesterday I noticed something. My liverock is in 3 columns in my tank. All 3 have this pest on them except the bottom of one. That one has red mushrooms on it. I will move some closer to other patches of derbesia to see what happens.
I have been giving some thought about using selected corals in my tank as biological control for my derbesia problem. The left side of my rock pile has little derbesia on it. The small cheap purple mushrooms seem to do a good job. I have quite a few of these mushroom now. I was thinking about placing them on some heavily infested derbesia areas and see what kind of results I get. The derbesia does not grow on my sand. It does grow on the glass, but that is easy to control. Any thoughts about how to best experiment with this method?
HighlandReefer
Team RC
Keep us posted. I am interested.
redfishsc
New member
I've been thinking about trying to raise the copper level in my tank. The problem is there is no adequate test kit that I am aware of. Guessing at your tank copper level can be off enough, since the level you may want to try is very close to killing things. I have only seen copper toxicity to algae noted in a few research papers. Haven't seen anything for derbesia. The papers I have read show quite a wide variance in copper toxicity to algae. Some are quite low, while others can be too high for use in a reef aquarium. If I could find a reliable copper test kit for the range we are looking at I would give it a try. The only other way of using copper I can think of would be to add small doses & watch the results. Keep increasing the amount you add in small amounts but spaced far enough apart to allow the copper level to return close to normal. I would remove all valuable shirmp and use a few cheap shrimp as a monitor.
Yeah some glass shrimp would be a good test, maybe some snails. I'd definitely throw some cheap coral in there like GSP or anthelia cuttings, perhaps some cheap SPS like bird's nest or red monti.
Salifert makes a copper kit, I think, but I don't know that it reads a range low enough. I've never used it.
I really want to test this out on bryopsis but I do not have room in my puny apartment for a small setup to be done. We have a 1 yr old son, so I can't just put it anywhere...
FWIW, my opinion is this: if the algae will eventually overtake the tank, I'd rather remove what is unadulterated by the algae and risk killing the rest, than let the algae win. PBITAWA!
redfishsc
New member
I have been giving some thought about using selected corals in my tank as biological control for my derbesia problem. The left side of my rock pile has little derbesia on it. The small cheap purple mushrooms seem to do a good job. I have quite a few of these mushroom now. I was thinking about placing them on some heavily infested derbesia areas and see what kind of results I get. The derbesia does not grow on my sand. It does grow on the glass, but that is easy to control. Any thoughts about how to best experiment with this method?
Grind a few of them up in a blender and dose some mushroom slush? Perhaps directly squirt the goo onto the derbesia? Not very practical but if we knew what allelopathic compounds were in a mushroom... maybe it's a start....
I have noticed that bryopsis in my tank wont' grow in a live SPS, only dead. If I could only get my tank coated with cactus pavona and encrusting monti
HighlandReefer
Team RC
I would be a concerned about the toxicity of the ground up mushrooms if you put enough of them in there.
