Almost done my custom stand. Thought?

[Capsle]

Hey reefers,

So I'm starting my system off from the base up as I've mentioned before, from building my base to drilling and resealing my tanks and building my sump. This is all a first for me.

I have a 75g DT, 36 X 18 and a 35g sump 36 X 12.5. All the stand builds I've gone through are pretty much the same dimensions as the DT so they caused an issues with being able to get my sump into the stand as they are the same length.

With that being said I've build a 48x24 stand to be able to fit my sump with a 5g bucket (for ATO) underneath the stand while still having some working room and storage for test kits and what not.

The biggest challenge was making sure that the DT was properly supported and weight evenly distributed. So I started from the standard build supporting the 4 corners of the 48x24 with a support at 24 inches or at Center. I then measured out 18 inches from the Center of the stand to give me my 36" length of my DT. I proceeded to build crossmember both at the top and bottom and supported them between each other.

I did use 2x6 wood as the top frame and crossmembers which is probably overkill but at least I am certain that it will hold.

Overall I have 48x24 top surface for the display rand and 45x18 for the sump space.

I will be finishing the top, bottom and sides with 3/4" plywood and I have a pretty neat idea for the covering (look) of the finished product and will post when I'm done.

Have a look below and let me know what you all think.

I spent about 70$ (CAD) on the wood. Which is a lot less that a custom build stand.

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[billdogg]

Nice job! Overbuilt :twitch: to the max, but that isn't necessarily a bad thing. What are you planning on skinning it with?

 

[Capsle]

I got a reef octopus classic 150int with a 6" cup.


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[Capsle]

Haha. I read skimming. I have a bunch of my laminated flooring left from finishing my basement off past month and plan on using that. I also go a bunch of carriage bolts that I plan on drilling 4 holes on each side and through the base and bolt on my panels so I can remove easily if ever necessary


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[Capsle]

So I have the top, floor and sides on. The top and floor are hard screwed to the base. As you can see the side I have drilled 4 holes on each panes and countersunk them to hold the carriage bolts. They will be bolted on the inside of the stand. This way if my sump ever need to come out all I have to do is undo 4 nuts. The skin of the stand will go over the plywood and won't be affected by the carriage bolts since they are countersunk

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[JohnnyHildo]

looks good.
just a heads up, when i built my stand i made sure i left enough room underneath for a skimmer. depending on brand, some sit in different depths of water mean you might have to raise the skimmer or lower the sump water level. if i remember correct i left 25" of usable space.
lastly, double measure to make sure you build your sump so the baffles allow your equipment to fit in between the overhead braces. it's all about overhead clearance!
here's mine:

 

[Capsle]

Awesome Johnny! Yes I made sure I have enough overhead clearance. I have 25.5" between the braces.

 

[aquamann183]

Looks great! Probably would have been fine without the plywood on top if everything was all flat. Might have made the tank a little cooler temperature wise. But it looks good either way, nice and solid! Better to be rock hard than questionable.

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[oldpaddy]

Looks good! If possible, try to make the sides removable. You can never have too much access.

My bad, I missed your second post.