Copied from your Build thread
So from the Nem forum Ill post some things here. Without clear pictures of the display it is hard to tell how much of a nutrient problem you actually have. The funny thing about algae is that it masks your nutrients very well. You may read 1/0 nitrates when in reality it is all held up in your algae. When the algae dies off, either from a treatment or lack of nutrients (caused by the GFO pulling phosphates) you will see an increase in nitrates, unless you pull out the dying algae pretty quickly.
Bio-pellets have the potential to increase the appearance of cyano, even in tanks that have low nutrients, if you decide to run them start off with no more then half the recommended amount. Remember that in order to remove nutrients you have to keep the numbers in check, Carbon->Nitrate->Phosphates. The Redfield ratio explaines alot, 106:16:1 carbon/nitrate/phosphates. What this means is that bacteria can only consume the nutrients until it hits the limiting factor wall. In some cases your GFO will actually pull out to much phosphates, breaking the ratio, and causing a build up of nitrates. The trick is balancing the ratio, if you intend to carbon dose, this ratio is your starting point (bio-pellets is a form of carbon dosing made easy really).
I would go with reef octopus skimmers as well, I run them in all my tanks and I have nothing but excellent things to say about them. They are not only one of the cheaper skimmers price wise you can buy they are also one of the best performers. If space is a concern look into any of the SSS (super sump saver) skimmers from them, they place the pump under the skimmer to decrease the foot print, this does however usually increase the height of the skimmer a few inches.
From your earlier posts it would seem you had issues with the water level in your sump. If you have not already done so I would advice running an auto-top off to maintain sump levels. Skimmers work well only at a specific water depth, anything over/under that can cause overflows and or poor skimming. If an auto-top off is not an option, I would advise partitioning your sump into sections, having your drain go into the section with the skimmer. Your sump level will only fluctuate in the return section (the section with the return pump) so your protein skimmer chamber will always be constant.
Are you planning on buying a new light for the 50g? If you are and want to keep sebaes, they are more light needy then BTA's. If you intend on going with BTA's then you can get away with quite a bit less light. They are just about the least demmanding when it comes to lights for hosting nems.
From what I have read in this thread I would advice against getting any anemone until you upgrade and get your nutrient levels and algae all under control. If the source is over feeding (almost always is) decrease your feeding, as much as every other day if needed. If you feed one cube of frozen food a day you are probably over feeding for your stock list, you can probably get away with 1/2 a cube every day.
When you decide to do the upgrade I would vote on a BTA, they are much easier to keep and they are the best begginer anemone you can start with. They come in a variety of colors (I am sure you know that already) and make a great addition to any tank. Just remember they like to wander if not given perfect conditions, so any other coral in the tank are potential victims to its stings (although BTA have a very very mild sting).
Best of luck, if you need any more advice feel free to ask, PM if you want, I don't always check back on threads
