Ammonia issues in my QT

[coolxborg]

Hi -

A royal gramma, PJ cardinal, and citron goby have been in my QT for four weeks now and have been treated with Prazipro. So far no signs of Ich.

However, the last few days, ive had a reading in Ammonia in the QT (~0.05 according to badge and ~0.25 according to APT test kit). Three days ago, I changed 25% of the water and tested again. Same results. Two days ago, I changed another 25%-30% of the water. Same results again. Yesterday, changed water 2x (about 25% each time) and finally added some prime. Still same results. I changed water again this morning, but still same results.

At first i thought this could be false readings so tested my DT with my API test kit and had 0 (badge also has 0). I had an extra badge laying around and put that in QT which showed roughly the same color as the other badge. This leads me to believe its not my test kits.

What could be causing this?

Also, what could be my options?
I figure:
1. Keep doing water changes and hopefully it disappears
2. Transfer them to DT (DT has been running for 2 months and have snails in them now, no fish) and take my chances.

 

[coolxborg]

Title is incorrect - Ammonia issues in my QT.

[FIXED---sk8r]

 

[homer1475]

I use seachem stability on my QT, along with prime(If needed). Never had an ammonia issue.

How big is your QT, and whats on it for filtration?

 

[coolxborg]

10 gallon with hob filter with ceramic rings and carbon right now.

 

[Sk8r]

If you started with a clean filter, your filter itself may be cycling.

 

[homer1475]

Basically the same setup as I have. Stability will even out your parameters. I would still use prime to lock up the ammonia until the stability takes effect. Its super cheap to, like 9$ for a huge bottle at petsmart.

 

[homer1475]

If you started with a clean filter, your filter itself may be cycling.

Exactly what I was getting at. Stability will populate those ceramic rings in a hurry.

 

[Marchillo]

As far as I'm aware you can't run carbon with medicine. Maybe I'm wrong.

Once you add prime your test kits may not show proper readings. Most test kits test total ammonia not just free ammonia (the toxic stuff). Pick up the SeaChem test that tests both free and total ammonia. Prime will bind the toxic ammonia into something safe for the fish although it still shows up in test results in most test kits.

Others will hopefully chime in.

I've had my 2 pj cardinals in a 20g tank going on 35 days. My ammonia badge never seems to be bright yellow so stress has been high for me. When I get nervous I do a 35% wc and or add prime. Fish seem happy and healthy.

 

[homer1475]

As far as I'm aware you can't run carbon with medicine. Maybe I'm wrong.

No carbon with prazipro, think it says so on the bottle. Going to grab mine to look.

EDIT:
Yup, just looked. No carbon, skimmer, or UV. Failure to do so will render product ineffective.

 

[coolxborg]

I've had the same ceramic rings since I started. Also, I only ran carbon after Prazipro.

So it looks I need to add stability and buy another test kit to confirm.

 

[Marchillo]

For me the colors seemed to play tricks on my eyes after a while. Is that yellow or a hint of lime green? If I put it under light A at angle A it looks like X. If I put it under light A at angle B it looks like Y.

At some points in the process I've done an ammonia test on both my display and QT (don't intermix equipment) to do a side by side comparison. That helped to eliminate some of my fears as well.

You also have 3 fish in a 10g tank. I'm guessing the ammonia could build up pretty quick. Don't be afraid of wc's. They've been my friend!

 

[gone fishin]

Good advice given. We can never have to much water on hand or prime during QT.

 

[coolxborg]

Yea, agreed. Not afraid of water changes, it just seems it wasn't getting ammonia under control.

 

[gone fishin]

The first couple QT can be stressful until we get into a routine. I know if I stare at the ammonia badges long enough it seems to change colors to taunt me.

 

[Marchillo]

FYI here has been my schedule. I think I may even add a little prime tonight. I'm not saying this is the right way to do it. It's my first time doing this process so I've been keeping notes in hopes I can mimic good results. Next time I think I'd start TTM on day one since it would save me a transfer. FYI there are 2 PJs in there. You can see how freaked out I was to start with wc's. Again not a bad thing imo. I'm doing one tomorrow with display water and may move them to DT this week. Probably a week or so less than recommended.

QT - PJ Cardinals
Sun May 31 - fish in
Wed 30% wc
Thu prime
Fri 30% wc
Sat 30% wc
Sun Jun 7 30% wc
Mon prime
Wed 30% wc w/prime
Sun June 14- new tank
Tue - added prime
Wed - new tank T1 (day 3)
Thu - added prime
Sat - new tank T2 (day 6)
Sun June 21
Mon - added prime
Tue- new tank T3 (day 9)
Thu - added prime
Fri - new tank T4 (day 12)
Sat - added prime
Sun - June 28
Tue - added prime (1/2 dose)
Tue - 35% wc
Wed - added prime
Fri - 35% wc w/prime

 

[coolxborg]

Thanks Marchillo. I just got home and checked again and still the same results. Ill change water again tomorrow, then go to LFS to pick up stability and other test kits.

 

[tkeracer619]

Test the water change water.

 

[Marchillo]

side by side

side by side

So here is an example of my side by side comparison

My DT has zero ammonia on multiple tests. I look at the QT tank and I see that that ammonia badge doesn't quite look yellow. I talk myself into thinking there is ammonia. So I do a side by side test from DT to QT tank. I know API isn't the best test but its the quickest one for this example. If you look at this photo you can talk yourself into saying the ammonia test looks slightly green. It does in this light. It looks more yellowish in better lighting. If the lighting is too bright I get thrown off even more.

The point is that doing the side by side I can see everything is exactly the same except for Nitrates in my DT which I expect. Nitrates are between 2-5PPM with my other tests. Tough to read the API test colors.

Just make sure if you do this not to mix equipment.

I plan on doing my DT water change today and using that water for my QT to get some Nitrates in there and then move them to DT on Tuesday

Good Luck.

 

[julie180]

As far as I'm aware you can't run carbon with medicine. Maybe I'm wrong.

Once you add prime your test kits may not show proper readings. Most test kits test total ammonia not just free ammonia (the toxic stuff). Pick up the SeaChem test that tests both free and total ammonia. Prime will bind the toxic ammonia into something safe for the fish although it still shows up in test results in most test kits.

Get the seachem test kit for accurate reading. Api is inaccurate when using Prime

 

[ericarenee]

Get the seachem test kit for accurate reading. Api is inaccurate when using Prime

This.

I Thought all the test kits will still detect the ammonia in the water even thou the prime has it locked up . I know Prime does not really remove the ammonia out of the water it just binds it with some other element to prevent it from harming the inhabitants .. That is why i think consistency and A LOG Book is needed as your running on faith and experience by watching how the fish act to determine the levels..
not mentioned by others Be sure you have good surface agitation..