An appetite for cyano
- Thread starter goingsalt
- Start date
If it was your sitter overfeeding, it should go away on its own. How old is the tank? I find cyano basically comes and goes with age. After the first couple months mine went away and never came back (hair, on the other hand.....)
Try increasing the flow to affected areas. Other than that, astrea snails do a good job on it.
Try increasing the flow to affected areas. Other than that, astrea snails do a good job on it.
Nothing biological has an appetite for it, at least that anyone has ever had even 25% luck with, but I have heard of the occasional conch or urchin that "eat" it, though I believe that they just scraped it out of the way in their normal moving around.
The only way I've gotten rid of it is with bacterial support to out compete the cyano, but that was during vodka dosing with a heavy duty skimmer as well. Without heavy duty skimming, I would say just try adding some GFO and Chemi-pure in the mean time, and keep skimming with whatever you've been skimming with. Water changes also would be very helpful.
The only way I've gotten rid of it is with bacterial support to out compete the cyano, but that was during vodka dosing with a heavy duty skimmer as well. Without heavy duty skimming, I would say just try adding some GFO and Chemi-pure in the mean time, and keep skimming with whatever you've been skimming with. Water changes also would be very helpful.
Urchinhead
Member
manual removal coupled with a macro algae/carbon/GFO/skimmer to keep things in check is the only way you are going to beat this long term.
goingsalt
New member
Thanx guys. Ive added chemi-pure. My tank is over a year old.
manual removal coupled with a macro algae/carbon/GFO/skimmer to keep things in check is the only way you are going to beat this long term.
I have been manualy removing, im using chemi-pure carbon bag and skimming. Im not sure what you mean by macro- algea or GFO.
manual removal coupled with a macro algae/carbon/GFO/skimmer to keep things in check is the only way you are going to beat this long term.
I have been manualy removing, im using chemi-pure carbon bag and skimming. Im not sure what you mean by macro- algea or GFO.
JOHN4AVIATION
New member
I think the Mexican turbo snail will eat red cyanobacteria.
obzezzed350
New member
Are you bulbs relatively new? The 55g I used to have had a red slime outbreak at about the 8 month mark. I replaced all the bulbs in my T5 fixture and it slowly began to die off.
obzezzed350
New member
What do you have for lighting? As the bulbs age, the light spectrum changes and can cause algae growth.
Urchinhead
Member
Ah sorry...
Macro algae like chaeto to take up the nutrients that are in the tank and Granulized Ferric Oxide for the phosphates. Like Rowaphos or the like. Also a 3 day lights out period coupled with red slime remover like Blue Vet Red Slime Control will also help
The cheato should actually be taking up both Nitrates (I'm guessing that's what you were referring to when you said nutrients, even though phosphate [PO4] is also a nutrient) as well as phosphates, though at an improper balance, so you may or may not need to run the GFO.
The 3 days lights out tends to work better or Dinoflagellates, but probably is similar for red slime. Generally the reason that it isn't recommended to immediately just toss in a slime remover like Blue Vet RSC, or Boyd's Red Slime Remover which is more common down here since Boyds is local, is because it's an antibiotic, and there are many difficulties and risks associated with using such. We don't really know the entirety of what happens when you dose your tank with antibiotics, so it's best to leave that as an absolute last resort.
