Another 225 Tank Project!
- Thread starter Foster
- Start date
Foster
Premium Member
01/31/04 - Canopy: Making progress on the canopy, below is a shot of the one of the latches that I will be using to secure the canopy together, as well as the top, side, and back. Part# 1844A52 Latch Steel,3-5/32 http://www.mcmaster.com
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/canopy1.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/canopy2.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/canopy3.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/canopy4.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/canopy1.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/canopy2.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/canopy3.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/canopy4.jpg>
reeferhead420
New member
too cool
too cool
whole thing is way to cool
how much water movement do you have going into the display take an hour
and what kind of price tag has this got :smokin:
too cool
whole thing is way to cool
how much water movement do you have going into the display take an hour
and what kind of price tag has this got :smokin:
Foster
Premium Member
The circulation is a AM3000 for the return, then the 52 gallon surge. I have it drilled out to add a second AM3000, but after watching it work, I have soooo much circulation with that surge I wont need a econd pump!
I try not to keep records of what this hobby cost me.....I might cry! The fact that I made alot of things myself, save a bunch of $
I try not to keep records of what this hobby cost me.....I might cry! The fact that I made alot of things myself, save a bunch of $
Mickey
Active member
Speechless, that's what I am.
I stumbled on this thread just yesterday and I'm glad I did. I am currently planning a tank exactly the same size. Unfortunately I don't have the skill, nor does my hubby, for the cabinet work you are doing. I hope I can handle the plumbing on my own!
I am most likely going to have a standard cabinet made by the same people making the tank. The canopy design is still being worked on. I wish I had the room to incorporate a surge device like you did, but I just don't think I can squeeze it in. I'll have to go with a closed loop pump instead.
Great work. I can't wait to see more pictures. I am particularly interested in what you are doing with the canopy and how you are laying out the lighting.
Keep it coming!
Mickey
I stumbled on this thread just yesterday and I'm glad I did. I am currently planning a tank exactly the same size. Unfortunately I don't have the skill, nor does my hubby, for the cabinet work you are doing. I hope I can handle the plumbing on my own!
I am most likely going to have a standard cabinet made by the same people making the tank. The canopy design is still being worked on. I wish I had the room to incorporate a surge device like you did, but I just don't think I can squeeze it in. I'll have to go with a closed loop pump instead.
Great work. I can't wait to see more pictures. I am particularly interested in what you are doing with the canopy and how you are laying out the lighting.
Keep it coming!
Mickey
Mickey
Active member
So excited I forgot to ask my question......
How do you have the egg crate attached to the overflows? Silicone?
If you were going to add egg crate anyway, why not just have the teeth built in?
My tank will only be accessible from the front and left side and I am thinking about having one large overflow starting at the center back and then continuing around the corner and 3/4 down the right side (not viewable anyway). I was hoping I could get enough flow this way, looking for 5000 gph. Using the overflow calculator on RC it tells me I need 78 inches and I figure I'll only have 56-60". Does making the overflows straight across make that much difference? You sound like you have enough with only 30" (2 6x9).
What do you think?
Mickey
How do you have the egg crate attached to the overflows? Silicone?
If you were going to add egg crate anyway, why not just have the teeth built in?
My tank will only be accessible from the front and left side and I am thinking about having one large overflow starting at the center back and then continuing around the corner and 3/4 down the right side (not viewable anyway). I was hoping I could get enough flow this way, looking for 5000 gph. Using the overflow calculator on RC it tells me I need 78 inches and I figure I'll only have 56-60". Does making the overflows straight across make that much difference? You sound like you have enough with only 30" (2 6x9).
What do you think?
Mickey
Foster
Premium Member
Hi Mickey - Thanks for the comps!
- The eggcrate is just cut to fit a little snug, and runs from floor to top of tank. That way I can remove them for cleaning if needed.
The slots that normally come on overflows are very restrictive, and as a result you will need hugh overflows. Cutting them flat gives you way more flow rate on a smaller overflow surface (30") in my case. The eggcrate will help keep most things out of the overflows, (snails, hemits, etc) but will not do as good of job as the slots, but for me it is worth the compromise.
If you dump the slots idea, you will not have to make such hugh overflows. Another idea that I have seen is were someone makes a slotted overflow that runs the entire length of the tank at the top, but only goes maybe 4" deep with the drains drilled into the back of the glass. Im not sure how well these perform, but someone on this board must have that configuration that you can ask.
To run 5000 GPH, make sure you have large enough drains, at min 2 x 2" drains. 3 would be even better.
Flat overflows make a hugh differance over slotted.
Your overflows will determine the performance of the whole tank, take your time, talk to a few people before deciding!
HTH
...sam
- The eggcrate is just cut to fit a little snug, and runs from floor to top of tank. That way I can remove them for cleaning if needed.
The slots that normally come on overflows are very restrictive, and as a result you will need hugh overflows. Cutting them flat gives you way more flow rate on a smaller overflow surface (30") in my case. The eggcrate will help keep most things out of the overflows, (snails, hemits, etc) but will not do as good of job as the slots, but for me it is worth the compromise.
If you dump the slots idea, you will not have to make such hugh overflows. Another idea that I have seen is were someone makes a slotted overflow that runs the entire length of the tank at the top, but only goes maybe 4" deep with the drains drilled into the back of the glass. Im not sure how well these perform, but someone on this board must have that configuration that you can ask.
To run 5000 GPH, make sure you have large enough drains, at min 2 x 2" drains. 3 would be even better.
Flat overflows make a hugh differance over slotted.
Your overflows will determine the performance of the whole tank, take your time, talk to a few people before deciding!
HTH
...sam
MickeyDee said:
Foster
Premium Member
02/02/04 - Canopy / Lights: I have finished making the front canopy panel, Im just waiting for the rest of the latches to arrive to lock it together. I have also started building the light fixture which will hang in the canopy. This will house 3 x 250 watt 10,000k Ushios MHs, and 2 x 140 watt 5" VHO, (1x Super Actinic, 1 x Actinic White).
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/facecan1.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/facecan2.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/facecan3.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/facecan4.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/facecan5.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/facecan6.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/facecan7.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/facecan1.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/facecan2.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/facecan3.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/facecan4.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/facecan5.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/facecan6.jpg>
<img src=http://bluechunks.net/reef/225reef/facecan7.jpg>
ich_commando
New member
whoa!!!!!!
willra
New member
With 3x250 10k mh's, why don't you go with 2 superactinics VHOs? The Uri actinic white is 12k, pretty much pure white. I think you might be satisfied a bit more with the 2 superactinics. Then again, its just personal preference.
The whole setup is killer, and the reflector is awesome. Keep up the great work!
Will
The whole setup is killer, and the reflector is awesome. Keep up the great work!
Will
Mickey
Active member
Are you using DE or SE MH bulbs?
Why only 5 ft VHO's instead of 6 ft for the whole length?
I was thinking about adding 6 ft. ones to mine and I thought with the 30 inch width I might need a total of 4, 2 in front and 2 in back.
Thanks for the info about the eggcrate. I hadn't thought about making it full height. Good idea.
For drains I was thinking about 3 1.5" but now I wonder if that will be enough. I don't want to go too big and too many and then have the sump overflowing because I can't pump it out fast enough either. So many decisions.....
Mickey
Why only 5 ft VHO's instead of 6 ft for the whole length?
I was thinking about adding 6 ft. ones to mine and I thought with the 30 inch width I might need a total of 4, 2 in front and 2 in back.
Thanks for the info about the eggcrate. I hadn't thought about making it full height. Good idea.
For drains I was thinking about 3 1.5" but now I wonder if that will be enough. I don't want to go too big and too many and then have the sump overflowing because I can't pump it out fast enough either. So many decisions.....
Mickey
Foster
Premium Member
Steve68 - Here is the info on them...
http://www.marinedepot.com/a_lt_mh_pfo_acc_info.asp
Here is were you can puchase...Halfway down the page 15", 24", or 36"
http://www.marinedepot.com/a_lt_mh_pfo.asp?CartId=
MickeyDee - 5' will be enough light for my rock work, 6' will be too cramped for my canopy, I want the whole light unit to be able to move up and down. If you look at closley, the surge tank hangs over the diplay about 5". I alway run the VHO a foot shorter that the tank.
I anm using SE PFO DIY setups, it is what I have used in the past, and really like them.
I used to have a chart, (it is somewere posted on RC) that gave flow rates vs. drain sizes with 1" head. I remember that a 1.5 drain could flow 1800gph, and a 2" was capable of 3600gph. At peak flow when the surge, and return (AM3000 @ 8'head) are flowing, If I had 1.5 instead of 2" it wouldnt work. Remember that you will probably use some sort of stand pipe to reduce noise, this will also rob your head pressure. Your sump should be able to hold all of your water with the pumps off, the tank will only drain what is pumped in. It is better to have drains that are too big, than too small, you can always choke down on the plumbing on an over sized drain.
http://www.marinedepot.com/a_lt_mh_pfo_acc_info.asp
Here is were you can puchase...Halfway down the page 15", 24", or 36"
http://www.marinedepot.com/a_lt_mh_pfo.asp?CartId=
MickeyDee - 5' will be enough light for my rock work, 6' will be too cramped for my canopy, I want the whole light unit to be able to move up and down. If you look at closley, the surge tank hangs over the diplay about 5". I alway run the VHO a foot shorter that the tank.
I anm using SE PFO DIY setups, it is what I have used in the past, and really like them.
I used to have a chart, (it is somewere posted on RC) that gave flow rates vs. drain sizes with 1" head. I remember that a 1.5 drain could flow 1800gph, and a 2" was capable of 3600gph. At peak flow when the surge, and return (AM3000 @ 8'head) are flowing, If I had 1.5 instead of 2" it wouldnt work. Remember that you will probably use some sort of stand pipe to reduce noise, this will also rob your head pressure. Your sump should be able to hold all of your water with the pumps off, the tank will only drain what is pumped in. It is better to have drains that are too big, than too small, you can always choke down on the plumbing on an over sized drain.
