redddogg69
New member
Sorry for the derail cougarman. Build looks great. Can't wait to see some updated pics.
Another Canadian Reef! 600 gallon Penninsula!
- Thread starter Cougarman
- Start date
So in continuation with the filtration room, I started working on the area where the sump will sit. I ran two dedicated 15A lines with GFCI receptacles across the top of the wall next to the sump. I want the receptacles up high to avoid any salt splash that may occur. I then covered the studs and drywall with a double layered plastic vapor barrier to keep any moisture from contacting the wall. Next I fabricated a crude stand out of left over wood for the sump. I also added a shelf on the wall below the receptacles and above the sump. I then layed out the sheets of acrylic and fabricated the sump which I still have to take a pic of.
Here is a pic of the area where the sump will sit.
While I waited for the sump to dry I sketched up a quick model of the sump that I built for you guys to see. I've left the one side open in the diagram to better show how I layed everything out. The water will flow from left to right in the diagram. The dimensions are 24 x 24 x 90 inches. The baffles will allow the water level to rest at 16 inches leaving 8 inches of space for the main tank to drain in case of a power outage. The display tank overflow will sit only 1.5 inches below the height of the tank, so a quick volume calculation gives me 2.5 times the minimum volume needed to collect any drainage from the display tank.
Now onto the sump design.
Firstly I hate filter bags, so I was trying to think of a way to collect detritus with out having to constantly clean and switch out filter bags. I came up with a ramp idea. The water from the tank overflow will enter the 1st chamber with the ramp. My hope is that as the water loses velocity, the detritus will contact against the ramp and collect at the bottom of the sump. I plan to have a bulkhead and drain on the open side with a valve that I can open and close to drain the detritus away when necessary. We will see how well this ends up working. Worst case scenario I can always throw a couple filter bags on there.
After the ramp chamber, the water will enter the skimmer area. I'll be employing 2 bubble magus 220 cone skimmers that I used on my last tanks which were 300 gallons and 400 gallons. I've been really happy with their performance and compact size. I also like the fact that they sit internally within the sump. I have a giant MRC dual beckett skimmer that I used for years, but its a power hog and being external there is always a chance of it over flowing or a pump seal bursting etc. The cone skimmers use 65W each vs the two 300W pumps I need for the beckett. Plus the Becketts are always getting jammed with stuff and need to be cleaned out. The cone skimmers are fully contained within the sum, so any problems won't result in a flood. Also having two skimmers gives me some interesting opportunities. Perhaps one can be set for dry skimmate, while the other is set for wet skimmate. In addition if one gets clogged with something, or breaks down the other will at least pick up some of the slack. The manufacturer recommends the skimmers are immersed in 9.5-11 inches of water, so I created a raised area with 6 inch long pieces of acrylic dowel for the skimmers to sit on.
Next I placed a series of baffles to get rid of the micro bubbles, and then a chamber for filter apparatus, reactors etc. I can even put frags in here if I want.
The water will then flow into the largest chamber which will be a refugium. and then another set of baffles and then to the return pump.
I'm planning on using a simple mag drive 2400 as a return pump. It's cheap, easily replaceable, easily repairable, submersible and fairly quiet. Since the skimmer pumps are rated at about 600 gallons/hr, together they can only process a maximum of about 1200 gallons of water per hour. It makes sense to me then to only require a maximum of about 1200 gallons per hour of display tank water to cross the overflow. This should maximize the efficiency of the skimmers and provide the cleanest water returning to the display. The mag 24 at a nine foot height has a flow rate of 1400 gallons per hour. I estimate an 11 foot span from sump to display, so it should work out fairly well. This is also why the display tank overflow will only be 1.5 inches below the top edge of the tank. 1200 gallons/hr across a 26 inch wide overflow should barely raise the water level above the overflow height.
I will post pics of the finished sump soon.
Here is a pic of the area where the sump will sit.
While I waited for the sump to dry I sketched up a quick model of the sump that I built for you guys to see. I've left the one side open in the diagram to better show how I layed everything out. The water will flow from left to right in the diagram. The dimensions are 24 x 24 x 90 inches. The baffles will allow the water level to rest at 16 inches leaving 8 inches of space for the main tank to drain in case of a power outage. The display tank overflow will sit only 1.5 inches below the height of the tank, so a quick volume calculation gives me 2.5 times the minimum volume needed to collect any drainage from the display tank.
Now onto the sump design.
Firstly I hate filter bags, so I was trying to think of a way to collect detritus with out having to constantly clean and switch out filter bags. I came up with a ramp idea. The water from the tank overflow will enter the 1st chamber with the ramp. My hope is that as the water loses velocity, the detritus will contact against the ramp and collect at the bottom of the sump. I plan to have a bulkhead and drain on the open side with a valve that I can open and close to drain the detritus away when necessary. We will see how well this ends up working. Worst case scenario I can always throw a couple filter bags on there.
After the ramp chamber, the water will enter the skimmer area. I'll be employing 2 bubble magus 220 cone skimmers that I used on my last tanks which were 300 gallons and 400 gallons. I've been really happy with their performance and compact size. I also like the fact that they sit internally within the sump. I have a giant MRC dual beckett skimmer that I used for years, but its a power hog and being external there is always a chance of it over flowing or a pump seal bursting etc. The cone skimmers use 65W each vs the two 300W pumps I need for the beckett. Plus the Becketts are always getting jammed with stuff and need to be cleaned out. The cone skimmers are fully contained within the sum, so any problems won't result in a flood. Also having two skimmers gives me some interesting opportunities. Perhaps one can be set for dry skimmate, while the other is set for wet skimmate. In addition if one gets clogged with something, or breaks down the other will at least pick up some of the slack. The manufacturer recommends the skimmers are immersed in 9.5-11 inches of water, so I created a raised area with 6 inch long pieces of acrylic dowel for the skimmers to sit on.
Next I placed a series of baffles to get rid of the micro bubbles, and then a chamber for filter apparatus, reactors etc. I can even put frags in here if I want.
The water will then flow into the largest chamber which will be a refugium. and then another set of baffles and then to the return pump.
I'm planning on using a simple mag drive 2400 as a return pump. It's cheap, easily replaceable, easily repairable, submersible and fairly quiet. Since the skimmer pumps are rated at about 600 gallons/hr, together they can only process a maximum of about 1200 gallons of water per hour. It makes sense to me then to only require a maximum of about 1200 gallons per hour of display tank water to cross the overflow. This should maximize the efficiency of the skimmers and provide the cleanest water returning to the display. The mag 24 at a nine foot height has a flow rate of 1400 gallons per hour. I estimate an 11 foot span from sump to display, so it should work out fairly well. This is also why the display tank overflow will only be 1.5 inches below the top edge of the tank. 1200 gallons/hr across a 26 inch wide overflow should barely raise the water level above the overflow height.
I will post pics of the finished sump soon.
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Thanks Adam. Ya I love the power of the becketts, but with stuff always getting clogged in them the efficiency is up and down depending on how clean they are.
Thanks Martin. I thought a lot about what would be the easiest way to achieve a detritus trap. The ramp seemed the most simple. I think an inverted pyramid or cone would be the best, you could put a valve at the apex. It would be a lot more difficult to do though.
Cougarman said:
Hello Jared,
So glad to see this build thread of yours. The front of your plywood tank from your old 600 gallon is something I see every day. I have been forced to delay the assembly of it (my plywood tank - with your front) ... however I hope to have it up before the snow flys again. You of course will likely have this one done before that.
Simple is good ... and I am glad I learn that from the few times we have met.
Since you have the space, I would suggest a 65 gallon rain barrel (food grade of course) for pre-settling. Idea would be to allow the water to first enter the barrel and then have it a number of diversions made to allow the detritus to settle out. Then have the water flow from the barrel to the sump that you have designed. It would be easy to have the barrel taken off line to clean. Most of the bubbles would have a chance to settle as well. With the volume of water that you are taking about ... this would work pretty good.
This would give you two traps to allow detritus to settle without the sock hassle.
Note: You could work your inverted cone or pyramid structure inside the barrel .. lots of space there.
Good luck and looking forward to seeing your next work of art.
Cheers,
Bruce
Good to see you're still visiting RC Bruce. Thanks for the barrel idea. I'll see how well my ramp trap works first. If all I have to do is turn a valve to drain off the detritus, then that will be perfect for me.
redddogg69
New member
Wow. Looks great. Did you cut and glue all the acrylic yourself?
I had the plastic cut at PA plastics in Hamilton, then I melted it together myself.
If Acrylic didn't scratch so easily I would have made my own display tank out of it.
redddogg69
New member
Nice work. Not many would undertake that themselves. It looks just as good as a professional job. Your gonna have to watch out people are going to want you to make them one lol.
I actually gave them one wrong measurement, so I had to cut the piece myself and then fudge the ugliness of my workmanship. Worked out ok. Just a sump anyway. Only need it to be functional.
Jared
Jared,
Yes, I am still around, however, I have to live my fish dreams through others for the last few years. The barrel idea is a Mr. Wilson thing that makes alot of sense. It is one that I plan to implement, however I have some space restrictions ... which you do not suffer from to the same degree.
I have seen a few installations where the DT is on the first floor and the sump in the basement. It is amazing the velocity and thus the turbulence of the water in the first chamber. I know that you are going with a turnover of 1200 gph, however the speed of that water will be the same regardless of the volume. The another purpose of the barrel would be to slow down the water and remove the majority of the bubbles. There would also be settling of detritus.
You will be able to determine if this is an issue with your setup as soon as water is in the system and it is under test. I have confidence that you will be able to solve this if it is a problem for you.
I am busting with finding out other details of your system ie DSB or ? and of course your ideas for stocking. I know you love your tangs, but I would not want to assume that is what your plan is. Maybe the upstairs is a more modest fish load with SPS and other corals ... and another killer FOWLR tank in the basement
. Anyway ... I will wait patiently.
Cheers,
Bruce
muttley000
MTS Sufferer!
What kind of acrylic did you use for the sump? Looks great, and I really like the barrel idea Bruce.
I used 3/8 inch acrylite acrylic.
Thanks JohnM99. I'll be updating shortly on some of the reactors I am using in the sump. I personally prefer the BRS reactors. They're affordable, easy to work with, compact, and I can mount them above the sump with only they're pumps taking up sump space. Plus I can switch out the inserts and use them for carbon, biopellets, GFO or anything else I want.
JohnM99
Premium Member
I share your wish to get rid of filter bags - interesting idea to put a bulkhead where you think the detritus will collect. Maybe that would be a good way to do your water changes.
How are you plugging the drains from the tank into the ramp section? Are you putting a bulkhead below the ramp for that? Using a siphon drain ala BeanAnimal?
How are you plugging the drains from the tank into the ramp section? Are you putting a bulkhead below the ramp for that? Using a siphon drain ala BeanAnimal?
Well it's been a few days since I posted. Much progress has been made on the filtration room. I've got word that the glass has been cut and is ready for delivery. I should hear today from Lukas regarding a day to start tank fabrication. John is hoping to start this week. The main obstacle is gathering enough guys to help lift the sheets of glass. John estimates the largest sheet will weigh over 300 lbs.
Now on to the filtration room. 2 weekends ago I filled the sump. No leaks, so no problems. I added a skimmer, calcium reactor, BRS reactors for biopellets and carbon, and a zeovit reactor with zeovit media. In the refugium I added 80lbs of sand, and a few pieces of live rock and a big ball of chaeto. I added a small pump at the end of the sump to pump water back to the beginning. I let it run all week.
Now on to the filtration room. 2 weekends ago I filled the sump. No leaks, so no problems. I added a skimmer, calcium reactor, BRS reactors for biopellets and carbon, and a zeovit reactor with zeovit media. In the refugium I added 80lbs of sand, and a few pieces of live rock and a big ball of chaeto. I added a small pump at the end of the sump to pump water back to the beginning. I let it run all week.
In the meantime I added a shelf to each side of my support structure. I had some acrylic cut and I fabricated two tanks, one for each side. The larger tank measures 36" x 36" and will serve as a frag tank. The other sided which measures 22" x 36" will serve as a water change tank/fish acclimation tank/hospital tank. I plumbed 1.5 inch drains with valves on each tank so I can isolate each tank from the main system should I need to. The drains empty into the skimmer chamber of the sump. The returns I fabricated out ot 3/4 inch pvs and I added a valve to each to control the flow. An old MAG 12 that I have powers the return.
With the Canadian Fall now here, our number of warm days are diminishing. I decided to move my livestock indoors. My corals took a hit in the holding tanks in my garage, but most managed to hang on at least partially, hopefully they will regrow. I separated my fish into the frag tank and water change tank, which will now serve as holding tanks until the display tank is built. I also moved most of the remaining live rock into my sump system.
I'll post some close up pics of the tanks in a few minutes.
With the Canadian Fall now here, our number of warm days are diminishing. I decided to move my livestock indoors. My corals took a hit in the holding tanks in my garage, but most managed to hang on at least partially, hopefully they will regrow. I separated my fish into the frag tank and water change tank, which will now serve as holding tanks until the display tank is built. I also moved most of the remaining live rock into my sump system.
I'll post some close up pics of the tanks in a few minutes.
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