The Reefmonster
New member
bump
Another Custom Stand Construction Thread- 120 Gal.
- Thread starter marino420td
- Start date
Randall_James
Premium Member
bottom of each page > "Subscribe to this Thread"
Wonder what the "bump" was for ? :lol:
I do need a custom top made for a 50G REALLY TALL tank
Wonder what the "bump" was for ? :lol:
I do need a custom top made for a 50G REALLY TALL tank
Liquid Hobby
New member
That is SO true! There is a right tool for every job! For instance, I don't even know the name if it, but I want one... it does the shallow angled drill holes for cabinet panel joining.
Superb stand! Should be the DIY stand of the month/year!
T
marino420td
Premium Member
Liquid Hobby, I believe the tool you are referring to is a pocket hole jig. I purchased one just for this project and loved it.
mfisher2112
New member
Kreg Pocket Hole Kit. Got mine at Lowes.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productList&N=0&Ntk=i_products&Ntt=kreg
It rocks!
Liquid Hobby
New member
That's it!
Thanks
Thanks
eederise
New member
This is such a relief from the mundane, plain jane, overpriced junk that suppliers are pushing these days. I was already thinking about building my own stand/canopy over the next few months, but you have truly inspired me by sharing your project with us. I have a couple of questions for you (forgive me if I repeat any questions already asked as I have not had the time to read through the whole thread yet...)
First of all, now that you're set up and going, how do you like the 120 size? Do you have any regrets for not going larger? Before I found this thread, I was thinking that the 120 looked to have excellent dimensions(looking at All-Glass Megaflow 24x24x48 in particular)
And secondly, do you have a tally on the damage?
I know that material costs will differ depending on one's area and the type of stock used. I'm just curious as what I have to look forward too, cost wise for the stand and canopy.
Excellent job... Thank you for sharing!
First of all, now that you're set up and going, how do you like the 120 size? Do you have any regrets for not going larger? Before I found this thread, I was thinking that the 120 looked to have excellent dimensions(looking at All-Glass Megaflow 24x24x48 in particular)
And secondly, do you have a tally on the damage?
I know that material costs will differ depending on one's area and the type of stock used. I'm just curious as what I have to look forward too, cost wise for the stand and canopy.Excellent job... Thank you for sharing!
marino420td
Premium Member
eederise- I really do like the dimension of my 120. Of course, I would love to have a much larger tank but room constraints really prevented it. Compared to my 65 gal, the 120 seems huge.
I have approximately $600-$650 in materials in the stand and canopy. I chose to use solid maple to match the bar in my basement and this wood is quite expensive. The costs could have been much less with a different choice of wood.
Tiki- thanks for the compliments.
I have approximately $600-$650 in materials in the stand and canopy. I chose to use solid maple to match the bar in my basement and this wood is quite expensive. The costs could have been much less with a different choice of wood.
Tiki- thanks for the compliments.
Icehockey_whino
New member
aBSOLUTELY the best crafted tank stand and canopy i have ever seen.
I'm starting a new canopy on my 55 reef at my office. It had an old basic homemade canopy from 6 years ago. your woodwork has inspired me and givem me some ideas I never thought of.
Thanks!!!
I'm starting a new canopy on my 55 reef at my office. It had an old basic homemade canopy from 6 years ago. your woodwork has inspired me and givem me some ideas I never thought of.
Thanks!!!
Bergovoy
Moved On
For the deeper colors, make sure the stain you use has no SEALER in it. If it does, subsequent coats will not take.
Stir the can well prior to use, and during use. Apply witha brush, and do not wipe off. If you get areas that suck, (suck up the stain before the other areas, / uneven staining, keep applying a wet coat on top of a wet coat. After the you get a uniform stain on the surface, allow to dry for about 30 minutes, then wipe off evenly.
MAKE SURE that the stain does not run down. The stain must be even.
After you apply as many coats as you plan on. Allow to dry for 24 hours or more, (in a very dry environment).
Then apply a sanding sealer. This is the easest step of all steps as there is pretty no way to do it wrong, (Actually you can by putting it on too thick. Just a nice even coating. This sealer should dry to the touch in about 15 miutes,a nd ready for sanding in about a couple of hours. Depending on the surface you are sanding, use 220 grit or finer. Be careful to not sand the sealer off and sand into the stain. (Be careful around edges). Use steel wool on rounded and hard to get at spaces.
The sealer sands out real good. It truly makes yo ulook like a professional.
You can apply a second coat of sealer if necessry.
Dust off the wood with a TACK rag, (found at home depot or other hardware store).
Application of the final coats vary on the material used and the sheen you are looking for.
If you have questions let me know and I can help.
Spraying on clear coats is an art and should only be done by those that have a bunch of experince.
Applying a clear coat does not have to be sprayed on to get a good finish. In fact, I prefer applying by hand.
Good luck
Bill B
Stir the can well prior to use, and during use. Apply witha brush, and do not wipe off. If you get areas that suck, (suck up the stain before the other areas, / uneven staining, keep applying a wet coat on top of a wet coat. After the you get a uniform stain on the surface, allow to dry for about 30 minutes, then wipe off evenly.
MAKE SURE that the stain does not run down. The stain must be even.
After you apply as many coats as you plan on. Allow to dry for 24 hours or more, (in a very dry environment).
Then apply a sanding sealer. This is the easest step of all steps as there is pretty no way to do it wrong, (Actually you can by putting it on too thick. Just a nice even coating. This sealer should dry to the touch in about 15 miutes,a nd ready for sanding in about a couple of hours. Depending on the surface you are sanding, use 220 grit or finer. Be careful to not sand the sealer off and sand into the stain. (Be careful around edges). Use steel wool on rounded and hard to get at spaces.
The sealer sands out real good. It truly makes yo ulook like a professional.
You can apply a second coat of sealer if necessry.
Dust off the wood with a TACK rag, (found at home depot or other hardware store).
Application of the final coats vary on the material used and the sheen you are looking for.
If you have questions let me know and I can help.
Spraying on clear coats is an art and should only be done by those that have a bunch of experince.
Applying a clear coat does not have to be sprayed on to get a good finish. In fact, I prefer applying by hand.
Good luck
Bill B
Bergovoy
Moved On
For the deeper colors, make sure the stain you use has no SEALER in it. If it does, subsequent coats will not take.
Stir the can well prior to use, and during use. Apply witha brush, and do not wipe off. If you get areas that suck, (suck up the stain before the other areas, / uneven staining, keep applying a wet coat on top of a wet coat. After the you get a uniform stain on the surface, allow to dry for about 30 minutes, then wipe off evenly.
MAKE SURE that the stain does not run down. The stain must be even.
After you apply as many coats as you plan on. Allow to dry for 24 hours or more, (in a very dry environment).
Then apply a sanding sealer. This is the easest step of all steps as there is pretty no way to do it wrong, (Actually you can by putting it on too thick. Just a nice even coating. This sealer should dry to the touch in about 15 miutes,a nd ready for sanding in about a couple of hours. Depending on the surface you are sanding, use 220 grit or finer. Be careful to not sand the sealer off and sand into the stain. (Be careful around edges). Use steel wool on rounded and hard to get at spaces.
The sealer sands out real good. It truly makes yo ulook like a professional.
You can apply a second coat of sealer if necessry.
Dust off the wood with a TACK rag, (found at home depot or other hardware store).
Application of the final coats vary on the material used and the sheen you are looking for.
If you have questions let me know and I can help.
Spraying on clear coats is an art and should only be done by those that have a bunch of experince.
Applying a clear coat does not have to be sprayed on to get a good finish. In fact, I prefer applying by hand.
Good luck
Bill B
Stir the can well prior to use, and during use. Apply witha brush, and do not wipe off. If you get areas that suck, (suck up the stain before the other areas, / uneven staining, keep applying a wet coat on top of a wet coat. After the you get a uniform stain on the surface, allow to dry for about 30 minutes, then wipe off evenly.
MAKE SURE that the stain does not run down. The stain must be even.
After you apply as many coats as you plan on. Allow to dry for 24 hours or more, (in a very dry environment).
Then apply a sanding sealer. This is the easest step of all steps as there is pretty no way to do it wrong, (Actually you can by putting it on too thick. Just a nice even coating. This sealer should dry to the touch in about 15 miutes,a nd ready for sanding in about a couple of hours. Depending on the surface you are sanding, use 220 grit or finer. Be careful to not sand the sealer off and sand into the stain. (Be careful around edges). Use steel wool on rounded and hard to get at spaces.
The sealer sands out real good. It truly makes yo ulook like a professional.
You can apply a second coat of sealer if necessry.
Dust off the wood with a TACK rag, (found at home depot or other hardware store).
Application of the final coats vary on the material used and the sheen you are looking for.
If you have questions let me know and I can help.
Spraying on clear coats is an art and should only be done by those that have a bunch of experince.
Applying a clear coat does not have to be sprayed on to get a good finish. In fact, I prefer applying by hand.
Good luck
Bill B
Bergovoy
Moved On
For the deeper colors, make sure the stain you use has no SEALER in it. If it does, subsequent coats will not take.
Stir the can well prior to use, and during use. Apply witha brush, and do not wipe off. If you get areas that suck, (suck up the stain before the other areas, / uneven staining, keep applying a wet coat on top of a wet coat. After the you get a uniform stain on the surface, allow to dry for about 30 minutes, then wipe off evenly.
MAKE SURE that the stain does not run down. The stain must be even.
After you apply as many coats as you plan on. Allow to dry for 24 hours or more, (in a very dry environment).
Then apply a sanding sealer. This is the easest step of all steps as there is pretty no way to do it wrong, (Actually you can by putting it on too thick. Just a nice even coating. This sealer should dry to the touch in about 15 miutes,a nd ready for sanding in about a couple of hours. Depending on the surface you are sanding, use 220 grit or finer. Be careful to not sand the sealer off and sand into the stain. (Be careful around edges). Use steel wool on rounded and hard to get at spaces.
The sealer sands out real good. It truly makes yo ulook like a professional.
You can apply a second coat of sealer if necessry.
Dust off the wood with a TACK rag, (found at home depot or other hardware store).
Application of the final coats vary on the material used and the sheen you are looking for.
If you have questions let me know and I can help.
Spraying on clear coats is an art and should only be done by those that have a bunch of experince.
Applying a clear coat does not have to be sprayed on to get a good finish. In fact, I prefer applying by hand.
Good luck
Bill B
Stir the can well prior to use, and during use. Apply witha brush, and do not wipe off. If you get areas that suck, (suck up the stain before the other areas, / uneven staining, keep applying a wet coat on top of a wet coat. After the you get a uniform stain on the surface, allow to dry for about 30 minutes, then wipe off evenly.
MAKE SURE that the stain does not run down. The stain must be even.
After you apply as many coats as you plan on. Allow to dry for 24 hours or more, (in a very dry environment).
Then apply a sanding sealer. This is the easest step of all steps as there is pretty no way to do it wrong, (Actually you can by putting it on too thick. Just a nice even coating. This sealer should dry to the touch in about 15 miutes,a nd ready for sanding in about a couple of hours. Depending on the surface you are sanding, use 220 grit or finer. Be careful to not sand the sealer off and sand into the stain. (Be careful around edges). Use steel wool on rounded and hard to get at spaces.
The sealer sands out real good. It truly makes yo ulook like a professional.
You can apply a second coat of sealer if necessry.
Dust off the wood with a TACK rag, (found at home depot or other hardware store).
Application of the final coats vary on the material used and the sheen you are looking for.
If you have questions let me know and I can help.
Spraying on clear coats is an art and should only be done by those that have a bunch of experince.
Applying a clear coat does not have to be sprayed on to get a good finish. In fact, I prefer applying by hand.
Good luck
Bill B
I really do not know what to say, unfrigginbelievable . I've been going back anf forth over weather to buy a stand or build one. That is truely awsome. I know I don;t have the woodworking skills to accoplished that piece
. But, if you ever get into the stand making business, let me know, I'd buy one in a minute .
. I've been going back anf forth over weather to buy a stand or build one. That is truely awsome. I know I don;t have the woodworking skills to accoplished that piece . But, if you ever get into the stand making business, let me know, I'd buy one in a minute .
marino420td
Premium Member
Thanks but you just have to give it a try. Not that hard if you have the right tools.
chrismhaase
Active member
Marino-- this is the best stand I have seen. Would you make me a stand and canopy? What would you charge. I want it for a 90 gallon reef ready tank, 48"L X 18"D x 34" Tall??
chrismhaase
Active member
Marino-- this is the best stand I have seen. Would you make me a stand and canopy? What would you charge. I want it for a 90 gallon reef ready tank, 48"L X 18"D x 34" Tall??
marino420td
Premium Member
Thanks for the compliments. I'm afraid that I don't have the time to build a stand for you. I really enjoyed building this one but it took a lot of evenings that I can't spare right now.
It really wasn't that difficult to build. If you have any carpentry skills at all (and a few tools) you can do it yourself.
It really wasn't that difficult to build. If you have any carpentry skills at all (and a few tools) you can do it yourself.
chrismhaase
Active member
What tools did you use? Skill saw for 2x4 cuts, a table saw for regular cuts and hole saw to gut out holes for pipes, and a miter saw for your trim work? And Sandpaper. Did you use and glues?
marino420td
Premium Member
Miter saw and table saw for all cuts. Kreg pocket hole jig for joining face frames. Regular wood glue and lots of screws.
Since all of my equipment is in an adjoining room, I did not have to drill holes in the stand for plumbing but a hole saw would work great for this.
Since all of my equipment is in an adjoining room, I did not have to drill holes in the stand for plumbing but a hole saw would work great for this.
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