katchupoy
New member
So you will have 3 separate, individually controlled channels. 3 ramp ups and 3 ramp downs. That would be cool.
(Another) DIY LED Controller - Simple Arduino Style
- Thread starter katchupoy
- Start date
So you will have 3 separate, individually controlled channels. 3 ramp ups and 3 ramp downs. That would be cool.
katchupoy
New member
I believe this is the same and ok to use... maybe experts can chime in here... Just make sure the legs assignment for base, collector and emitter.
Also, my drawings might be different but should work if legs assignment are followed.
katchupoy
New member
Whats left is 3, 9, 10, and 11... And yes these are all assignable in the sketch.
9 and 10 are reserved for servos (future?).
So use 3 and 11.
terahz
1x10^12 Hz
Yes
katchupoy
New member
arduino is really small considering, so you can put it in one of these boxes...
http://www.radioshack.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2032276
I have mine on the same shoe box where all the drivers are.... its not really good looking, but maybe in the future, i will put it on these boxes.
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TheReefNinja
Imagination superfreak
Hmmm it would seem we would not need the dimming pots any more after we get a way to turn white or blue on or off and dim from the keypad.
katchupoy
New member
Thats very true. Here are the reasons why I still have it.
1) It came from the original wiring diagram.
2) If arduino dies, we can simply short the negative (to make it 100%) and control the device from the "POT". Plan B? if arduino dies.
3) If for example I want to use only 50% or so intensity of lighting, instead of me re-programming my arduino, I simply turn this dial.
Hope it makes sense.
And another thing, my sketch (code) is so simple (i dont know any better), it does not have any control from the keypad yet. Just making it simple for now...
Maybe in the future.
TheReefNinja
Imagination superfreak
Good plan on the failsafe. I hear ya on simple sketch so far, get it working then add from there. As soon as I get my units in I can start playing with this with you. I am sure other open source projects may help us along our journey.
Got my RTC's in today along with my Hydra Reef Controller board ( I plan on building that project also ) this should be a fun few weeks ahead.
katchupoy
New member
Whoa... youre doing the Hydra? well your way advance than me... lol...
TheReefNinja
Imagination superfreak
Lol I can solder pretty decent and understand coding basics. I found someone with a board so I figured I would give it a shot. Its a win win for me I get to make 2 different controllers and it gives me more of a reason to start a quarantine tank.
So you should order a few DS18B20 1 Wire Digital Thermometer ( http://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet/the-205/18B20-DALLAS-DIGITAL-DS/Detail ) there only $1.60 and shipping was $.99 for 4 of these and 6 other items and you could use one in your heatsink to see what the leds are running at. here is a chunk of code that I found to use it
Code:
// Get temp data from DS18B20 ***************************************************************************************
if ( !ds.search(addr)) {
ds.reset_search();
return;
}
ds.reset();
ds.select(addr);
ds.write(0x44,1); // start conversion, with parasite power on at the end
delay(750); // !!! keep this line for parasite power mode of DS18B20
present = ds.reset();
ds.select(addr);
ds.write(0xBE); // Read Scratchpad
for ( i = 0; i < 9; i++) { // we need 9 bytes
data[i] = ds.read();
}
LowByte = data[0];
HighByte = data[1];
TReading = (HighByte << 8) + LowByte;
SignBit = TReading & 0x8000; // test most sig bit
if (SignBit) // negative
{
TReading = (TReading ^ 0xffff) + 1; // 2's comp
}
Tc_100 = (6 * TReading) + TReading / 4; // Multiply by (100 * 0.0625) or 6.25
Tc_100 = (Tc_100 * 9/5) + 3200; // Convert to fahrenheit, comment this out to display in celcius added 100 for temp correction
temp_Low = min(temp_Low, Tc_100);
temp_High = max(temp_High, Tc_100);
// Display current temperature line 0 *****************************************************************************
if(on_minute == 0) {
lcd.setCursor(0,0);
lcd.print("Wt:");
delay(keypad_delay);
Whole = (Tc_100 / 100); // separate off the whole and fractional portions
Fract = (Tc_100 % 100)/10;
lcd.print(Whole, DEC);
delay(keypad_delay);
lcd.print(".");
delay(keypad_delay);
lcd.print(Fract, DEC);
delay(keypad_delay);
lcd.write(0xDF);
delay(keypad_delay);
}
//Display Low Temp***************************************************************************************
if(on_minute == 0){ //used so if bad data is sent for the first reading, it is not saved
lcd.setCursor(0,9);
Whole = (temp_Low / 100); // separate off the whole and fractional portions
Fract = (temp_Low % 100)/10;
lcd.print(Whole, DEC);
delay(keypad_delay);
lcd.print(".");
delay(keypad_delay);
lcd.print(Fract, DEC);
delay(keypad_delay);
lcd.write(0xDF);
delay(keypad_delay);
lcd.setCursor(0,14);
lcd.print("-");
delay(keypad_delay);
}
//Display High Temp***********************************************************************************
if(on_minute == 0){ //used so if bad data is sent for the first reading, it is not saved
lcd.setCursor(0,15);
Whole = (temp_High / 100); // separate off the whole and fractional portions
Fract = (temp_High % 100)/10;
lcd.print(Whole, DEC);
delay(keypad_delay);
lcd.print(".");
delay(keypad_delay);
lcd.print(Fract, DEC);
delay(keypad_delay);
lcd.write(0xDF);
delay(keypad_delay);
}found at http://reefprojects.com/w/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=298
Hookup is power, ground, and the digital signal wire pretty easy.
EDIT!!!!!! forgot to mention you can encase these in silicone or some resin epoxy and use em for tank water temp also. thats why I got a few I will do 1 for led temp and 1 for tank temp
EDIT EDIT!!!! he adds this up top in the code
Code:
#include <OneWire.h>and this a bit down
Code:
Digital Pin 44 = Temp Sensorand a bit further...
Code:
OneWire ds(44);and this isnt praising the code right........... but you get the point
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terahz
1x10^12 Hz
TheReefNinja, the code tags have trouble including code with brackets so use the php tag instead.
I'm also using DS18B20 on my Hydra and they seem to work well. However few days ago, one of the dipped-in-silicone ones decided to malfunction and my PH started measuring almost 2pts down (showing 6pH !). So just keep that in mind
I'm also using DS18B20 on my Hydra and they seem to work well. However few days ago, one of the dipped-in-silicone ones decided to malfunction and my PH started measuring almost 2pts down (showing 6pH !). So just keep that in mind
TheReefNinja
Imagination superfreak
TheReefNinja, the code tags have trouble including code with brackets so use the php tag instead.
I'm also using DS18B20 on my Hydra and they seem to work well. However few days ago, one of the dipped-in-silicone ones decided to malfunction and my PH started measuring almost 2pts down (showing 6pH !). So just keep that in mind
Thanks for the heads up on these I will make sure to keep an eye on em. Now how did it effect your ph sensor?
katchupoy
New member
When Im done documenting this project and everyone can follow... I will come back to this post and will probably bother you with a lot of questions... this is a nice feature to add. But in the future.....
TheReefNinja
Imagination superfreak
Good stuff. order now it might take a week or 2 to get em lol
Terahz, did you use fish tank silicone? I only wonder if the salt had any effect on it. I plan on doing a thin epoxy dip 3"in up the wires and then encase in silicone hope it holds up. One thing I can think of is the wires being moved around may have loosened up the silicone and allowed water to seep in.
EDIT: what coding environment are you guys using for this I have Eclipse all set up for my android dev stuff but this is C isnt it?
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