Another RO/DI Brand Opinion Poll

saltyunderground

In Memoriam
Fade32 convinced me earlier today that I need a new RO/DI system. I swear that guy could sell swim suits to Eskimos.

We have a 6 stage RO/DI Water General that we will be selling once we get a new one. We do use quite a bit of water, about 5-10 gallons a day.

So, what brand and model do you recommend?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
 
Just weigh out whether the upgrades needed vs. buying a whole unit. If a new filter set and a vertical di chamber is less, save the unit you have. You may save money buying as a unit. But the good membrane and the vertical di are a must. If you keep the housing you already have, get the vertical di chamber scrap the horizontal one.

Another thing I added to mine is a pressure gauge. If you overpressure the membrane it will push too much bad stuff through. My house pressure is up around 90 so it helped me out a lot to be able to throttle back the psi.
 
Oh, on the prefilters, check out the chlorine removal rating on the carbon block too. And think about dual vertical di chambers. That way when the first one changes color you can swap it out not have to wait for the tds to go up.
 
Like Doc said, the brand doesn't mean squat. The housings are generic. The membrane is important. I also believe highly in Vertical DI's.

Here's some info from Buckey Field Supply.

Horizontal DI housings are a design intended to minimize the original cost of the system - you should be prepared for the tradeoffs. Horizontal DI units typically contain 8 oz. to 16 oz. of resin. Typical vertical DI cartridges contain 20 oz of resin. Obviously the more resin contained in the housing the longer it will last and the better treatment it will provide.

Some horizontal DI housings are not refillable - you'll therefore have to pay for a new housing every time you need to replace the DI resin. The cost of repeatedly replacing the horizontal housing will far outweigh any money saved up-front in purchasing the unit.

Perhaps most importantly, horizontal DI housings are a less than ideal arrangement for water treatment. DI resin beads shrink through normal use over their life span. You'll note that a cartridge that was full when new can sometimes have a ¼ inch of empty space in it when fully expended. When DI resin settles in a horizontal housing, it leaves a pathway (of least resistance) along the top of the housing where water can flow while coming into minimal contact with the DI resin.

You’ll note that the output from the DI housing is at the center of the end of the housing. Depending upon how your system is configured, RO water may enter the DI housing in port, fill up the housing until the water level reaches the out port (i.e., fill up the bottom half of housing), and then exit the DI housing. Your RO water has been in contact only with half the resin in the housing.

The Carbon Blocks for Chloramine removal are a good idea too if you are using auto-topoff. (I.e. It does no good to remove the Chlorine and then dump the Ammonia portion of the Chloramine right into the tank).
 
Like Roy suggested, maybe just keep your current unit, scrap the horizontal DI and get a vertical DI canister.

I upgraded my old 3 stage RO unit with this add-on DI.

http://www.purelyh2o.com/product.php?productid=16194&cat=260&page=1

I really like that it came with the fittings and a refillable DI cartridge prefilled with color change resin. I've been very pleased my mine. I've really liked doing business with this company. They are the ones that donated the big RO/DI unit we auctioned at the 50/50 auction last February. Chad Farmer bought that unit. You might ask him how he likes his.

Jim Craig
 
I upgraded w/stuff from buckeye. I got the membrane, gauge, add on di, and bulk resin all from them. One of the biggest reasons is they took paypal. :D
 
http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/

I got the BFS-198 here:

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Sub=109&showspecials=109

The BFS-52 here:

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Sub=153&showspecials=153

The vertical add on di BFS-72 here:

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=39&Sub=127

And 5 lbs of DI resin BFS-171 here:

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=40&Sub=127

I got a dual tds meter to go after the ro and after the di BFS-207 here:
http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Sub=149&showspecials=149

I would like to get a second one of the dual tds inlines so that I can put one before any filtering and one after the prefilters. The I can see raises in tds at all stages which can possibly help with extending each set of filters. That way I don't change one before needed or keep using one stage longer than I should which places more work on the next stage.

I had just changed my prefilters albeit not good ones. I had ordered them from filterdirect but am getting due to change those within a month or two.
 
I swear by Spectrapure. I realize I may be paying more than I need to but it gives me peace of mind. I run a 90GPD SP-2000 five stage ro/di.

:D
 
I would like to get a second one of the dual tds inlines so that I can put one before any filtering and one after the prefilters. The I can see raises in tds at all stages which can possibly help with extending each set of filters. That way I don't change one before needed or keep using one stage longer than I should which places more work on the next stage.

I had just changed my prefilters albeit not good ones. I had ordered them from filterdirect but am getting due to change those within a month or two.

OBTW dual dual tds inlines will not do what you expect. Since TDS = Total Dissolved Solids and prefilters only remove sediment and chlorine; There will be no drop between the incoming tap water and prefilters. I found this one out the hard way. Anyone need a oh so slightly used dual inline tds meter? ;) $30
 
After thinking about that a pressure gauge might be a better item to place after the prefilters. Before anthing is a good place though to check the efficiency of the ro membrane.
 
Thanks you all for the help on this question. After researching the options I've found it's cheaper to buy a new system than to buy new filters and modify the one I have.

I bought a Typhoon III with a second verticle DI canister. It comes with the pressure gauge and the TDS meter.

It cost almost half of what it would cost to replace the current filters and add the new parts I need.
 
for people that use a lot of water i would have bought a dual membrane system


did the old system have clear canisters or just the white
 
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