Anyone Thinking of Dumping LEDS and going back to Halides

I currently have two Vegas in a canopy over my 90g, and just about to upgrade to Hydra 52s, but used to have two 250w DE pendants on magnetic ballasts. I also live in Dallas, Texas and needless to say, our summers get pretty hot.

I never needed a chiller, but did stuff my canopy with 6 PC fans. My tank temperature would go up to 82*, but I would just be creative with my photoperiod to minimize the temp spikes - basically waiting to turn the MHs on until later in the afternoon when my AC thermostat kicks back on. The ambient temperature makes a huge difference in how much the MHs affect the tank temperature.

So MHs are completely doable without a chiller even in warm areas!
 
I currently have two Vegas in a canopy over my 90g, and just about to upgrade to Hydra 52s, but used to have two 250w DE pendants on magnetic ballasts. I also live in Dallas, Texas and needless to say, our summers get pretty hot.

I never needed a chiller, but did stuff my canopy with 6 PC fans. My tank temperature would go up to 82*, but I would just be creative with my photoperiod to minimize the temp spikes - basically waiting to turn the MHs on until later in the afternoon when my AC thermostat kicks back on. The ambient temperature makes a huge difference in how much the MHs affect the tank temperature.

So MHs are completely doable without a chiller even in warm areas!

You might want to keep your Vegas, I have a good friend who did what you are about to do and he is not very happy.
 
You might want to keep your Vegas, I have a good friend who did what you are about to do and he is not very happy.


Thanks for the heads-up! I've also heard from folks that have been happy with the upgrade so I'll just have to judge it for myself! :-)
 
I used to run 2 250w DE PFO pendants in a canopy with PC fans pulling air out of the hood. That along with being in the basement helped not require a chiller. I've heard these newer electronic ballasts keep the MH bulbs running more efficient but not sure if that also means cooler, relatively speaking of course. With the newer MH technology out (ballasts, bulbs) can anyone comment on the newer tech running cooler than a MH setup from 10 years ago?
 
Electronic ballasts oftentimes will drive bulbs cooler by using less electricity... but there is also oftentimes a loss of output. YMMV with certian bulbs and ballasts, but this generally is true. In lots of cases, the lower output is probably fine.
 
I used to run 2 250w DE PFO pendants in a canopy with PC fans pulling air out of the hood. That along with being in the basement helped not require a chiller. I've heard these newer electronic ballasts keep the MH bulbs running more efficient but not sure if that also means cooler, relatively speaking of course. With the newer MH technology out (ballasts, bulbs) can anyone comment on the newer tech running cooler than a MH setup from 10 years ago?

There is nothing cool about MH bulb operation. The average bulb is about 600 deg. They have to hit temps hot enough to turn the gas inside the bulbs into plasma or they dont work. Dont exactly know what temp that is but its over 1000 F
 
Yeah the bulbs and reflectors get hot as hell. You can easily burn yourself if you have your arms in the tank and move the wrong way. (I say this from experience!!!) The eballasts on the other hand, don't put off much heat. My 250 watt ballasts ran just above room temperature, and my 400 watt magnetic ballasts run just warm enough to not hurt at all, but definitely much warmer than room temp.
 
Thanks for the heads-up! I've also heard from folks that have been happy with the upgrade so I'll just have to judge it for myself! :-)

+1....another happy Hydra52 upgrader here. These lights are awesome, I run mine at the preset 14k setting for most of the day, getting great growth and colour.
 
Can you post pics of your tank?
I personally will be going back to a single halide for my tank. My reefbreeders are good at coloring up and growing SPS. I find it's just not the same.
LEDs i think really work well now with LPS.
 
Finally got my Giesemann Infiniti hooked up today. The megachrome Coral bulb is incredibly bright. Polyp extension on the SPS changed dramatically! The difference is unbelievable.
 
Finally got my Giesemann Infiniti hooked up today. The megachrome Coral bulb is incredibly bright. Polyp extension on the SPS changed dramatically! The difference is unbelievable.


Really interested in this light, can you post some pics of you tank, sps? I have the new ATI LED Power Module on my 120 and I'm not overly happy with it, thinking about going back to halides with the infinity.
 
Those Geismann lights are works of art. I really like them.

Yea they sure are a work of art. I just picked up a MATRIXX II and it is by far the most beautiful fixture I have ever seen. Looks like with Coralvue behind them Geismann may make a good comeback in NA. These fixtures are looking like the Ferrari of fixtures at a very decent price. Looks far better than my ATI fixtures. The paint jobs are awsum, so much better than standard aluminum or black. You can tell allot went into the design of these fixtures.
 
I posted last fall that I was abandoning my high-end ($2,500 three years ago) LED fixture and going back to MHs with VHO supplementation. I did that for a few months and my coral coloration improved some but my SoCal Edison bill went through the roof (more than $125 per month higher). So I did some more research and settled on three Kessil A360WEs over my 135 (60lx30tx18d). Color and polyp extension improved almost immediately and pretty dramatically since I made the change about six weeks ago. I think these may be keepers. Glad to be back to almost no need for the chiller and much lower Edison bills. Kessil shimmer is nice, too.
 
I posted last fall that I was abandoning my high-end ($2,500 three years ago) LED fixture and going back to MHs with VHO supplementation. I did that for a few months and my coral coloration improved some but my SoCal Edison bill went through the roof (more than $125 per month higher). So I did some more research and settled on three Kessil A360WEs over my 135 (60lx30tx18d). Color and polyp extension improved almost immediately and pretty dramatically since I made the change about six weeks ago. I think these may be keepers. Glad to be back to almost no need for the chiller and much lower Edison bills. Kessil shimmer is nice, too.


Awesome man, glad you found something that works for you in the end. I run MH/T5 personally, but I do like the shimmer and no disco effect the kessils produce...
 
I posted last fall that I was abandoning my high-end ($2,500 three years ago) LED fixture and going back to MHs with VHO supplementation. I did that for a few months and my coral coloration improved some but my SoCal Edison bill went through the roof (more than $125 per month higher). So I did some more research and settled on three Kessil A360WEs over my 135 (60lx30tx18d). Color and polyp extension improved almost immediately and pretty dramatically since I made the change about six weeks ago. I think these may be keepers. Glad to be back to almost no need for the chiller and much lower Edison bills. Kessil shimmer is nice, too.

I am in the process of doing the opposite, removing my Kessil a360we from my frag tank after 4 months and putting an ATI T5 unit in. Couldn't get any decent coloration or growth, and any frags I moved to the main tank under MH had to spend a lot of time on the sand or they would bleach.
 
I also ditched my A360WE and went with Phoenix 14k 250w MH with T5HO combo. I've been a Kessil fan since the A150's came out. I still love Kessil's for their look but not for coral color and growth. I'll stay with what works. Kessils are going on the FOWLR tank.
 
I have 4 radions gen 3 pro's over a custom 200. not getting good color or fast growth like I used to w/ MH/T5.. what spectrum do you supplement? the nearUV waves?
 
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