Anyone use MicMol LED?

Ron, all reliable and honest manufacturers should have a real spectrum charts their lamps, is not it? :)

I think it's nice to have them, but I am more worried personally about he leds themselves. A spectral chart is nice, but a rough estimate would be all that's need. However, faking a chart is kind of low.
 
And with so few leds in total and a 3:2 blue to white ratio, you really don't need the red or green leds. It's a waste of led space that could have been blue. The white leds will have enough red spectrum and the green... well, in this case, is just a waste, IMHO. You only need red and green leds if you have a high ratio of blue to white leds (like 3:1 or higher) and a lot of leds (like 48 or more).
 
And with so few leds in total and a 3:2 blue to white ratio, you really don't need the red or green leds. It's a waste of led space that could have been blue. The white leds will have enough red spectrum and the green... well, in this case, is just a waste, IMHO. You only need red and green leds if you have a high ratio of blue to white leds (like 3:1 or higher) and a lot of leds (like 48 or more).

Wow thanks.!!!:thumbsup:
 
You're welcome. I don't claim any expertise here, but I have been studying light, coral's light needs and leds for just over a year now and I'm just trying to help.
 
You're welcome. I don't claim any expertise here, but I have been studying light, coral's light needs and leds for just over a year now and I'm just trying to help.

Any par38 led you recommand?..

my tank is 12x12x12.. i will keep few soft coral and clowns.~
 
I've only used a few par38 bulbs (for over my sump). I'd say look for one that is 2:1 blue to white. 1:1 is OK and 3:1 is good too (but probably hard to find). You don't need red or green leds in a par38 bulb. They are just trying to take advantage of the big fad of trying to be 'full spectrum' like bigger led fixtures. Even big fixtures with 1:1 or 2:1 blue to white ratios don't gain anything by having red and green leds... well, maybe a little, but not much.
 
I've only used a few par38 bulbs (for over my sump). I'd say look for one that is 2:1 blue to white. 1:1 is OK and 3:1 is good too (but probably hard to find). You don't need red or green leds in a par38 bulb. They are just trying to take advantage of the big fad of trying to be 'full spectrum' like bigger led fixtures. Even big fixtures with 1:1 or 2:1 blue to white ratios don't gain anything by having red and green leds... well, maybe a little, but not much.

what about wattage?
 
I can't say. I think it depends too much on how many bulbs over how big a square footage and how deep a tank with what kind of corals??? The best answer probably comes from a PAR meter. I know they are expensive, but with leds they can be really worth the cost. Besides, I've paid for mine by asking for a frag when I loan it out to fellow club members! :D
 
Well, i just ordered MICMOL Mini.

I asked them about the infomation ..

and they answered "XPG's CCT is about 8300k, we just write a range for the LEDs"

i will see how it goes.~
 
Oh, so just blue+white, 9 leds, and your corals are still alive?
Replace immediately, or your corals will slowly die over a month or two.

I see now they are all cree x series LEDs and at 30W for the mini they should all be running in the ball park of 900-1000mA. so with optics they would be able to keep some acros alive and well directly beneath the fixture, at least near the center of the tank depending on how high the fixture is hung.

I'ts color is going to be way too white though, IMHO.

@ moga
it should work fine on your 7gal. you just won't likely be using much of the 4 white led's, just enought to get the color you like. You'll probably end up running the blues near full power once everything acclimates.

they don't say what angle optics they use, but they look like reflectors so I'd expect wider more even coverage than a typical plastic style optic.

@ $200 i'ts a bit pricey for my likeing but it does get points on styling, so if aesthetics of the fixture weigh in heavily.....
 
I see now they are all cree x series LEDs and at 30W for the mini they should all be running in the ball park of 900-1000mA. so with optics they would be able to keep some acros alive and well directly beneath the fixture, at least near the center of the tank depending on how high the fixture is hung.

I'ts color is going to be way too white though, IMHO.

@ moga
it should work fine on your 7gal. you just won't likely be using much of the 4 white led's, just enought to get the color you like. You'll probably end up running the blues near full power once everything acclimates.

they don't say what angle optics they use, but they look like reflectors so I'd expect wider more even coverage than a typical plastic style optic.

@ $200 i'ts a bit pricey for my likeing but it does get points on styling, so if aesthetics of the fixture weigh in heavily.....

thanks..

i will let you know when i get it.~
 
Got the light~.. and there are some wow factors with this light~

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I have the same one as mentioned earlier in this thread...I have one acro frag growing and as good as under my hydras dont dismiss this light the lps in the tank is flourishing as well. The ratio of blue to white ratio is 5 to4 ...3 thee royal blue 2 blue and 3 cool white and 1 warm white. Not too white to my eyes at all. Why all the skepticism here?
 
I have the same one as mentioned earlier in this thread...I have one acro frag growing and as good as under my hydras dont dismiss this light the lps in the tank is flourishing as well. The ratio of blue to white ratio is 5 to4 ...3 thee royal blue 2 blue and 3 cool white and 1 warm white. Not too white to my eyes at all. Why all the skepticism here?

White + blue in almost any ratio works fine. Recent developments have suggested though that running the blues much higher than the whites is better.
 
Your correct. That the white is just aesthetically pleasing to the human eye but non essential to coral. That's why I do have whites dialed down on both the Micmol and Hydra's. The ability to dim the lights is the key is what your really getting at, specifically the white. :-)
 
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