Anyone who kept Starcki Damselfish before?

NarakuAulonocar

New member
Hi

I really need help figuring out why I can't keep them alive!

The first one (2inch) I ever owned did fine for about a year and then died suddenly when I was doing a water change. During that time I don't know if I saw any scratching. When it died, it was in shock, it suddenly jolted and twitched and was then lifeless. I did not do anything different from my previous water change. Alkalinity, PH etc measured fine.
During the time I kept it, it did great, was always active and ate and even grew huge. Just as an FYI, there was also a blue tang and minor ich issues that wouldn't resolve but all fish were actively eating.


My second one (1.5 in) from the same source died the same way in around 5 month.
For the above 2 fish, they were thrown in the display directly because I didn't know about quarantine at that time.



My third one (2 in) from a different source was given a freshwater dip and and put in hypo quarantine. It died an hour later. I noticed that it couldn't keep balance after the dip but I brushed it off as internal parasites as it did swell up.



My fourth one was a huge fish (3.5 inch) from yet a different source. This one had cloudy fins but it survived the dip OK. It lived for a week in hypo but it never ate and died of what seemed like bacteria/protozoan infection in addition to cloudy fins which never resolved. I tried paraguard, cleaner goby and prazi and nothing worked.




My fifth fish lived for 2 weeks. For my fifth one (from the same source as the original two), I decided to do tank transfer (every 3 day) without hypo nor dips. Keep in mind this is a quarintine tank with subdued light and cover. The fish did fine and ate well but it scratched its gills sometimes towards the end of the first week. But died of uronema after a week later. This was very sudden as it had been eating fine up the the morning of that day. The heater did malfunction during my tank transfer and I feel that this weakened its immune system allowing the uronema to attack. In fact, the fish ate nls pellets soaked in gel tek and I saw stringy poop followed by regular chunky poop. FYI gel tek has prazi, flubendazole and metro covering most internal parasites: nematodes, tape worms, protozoans.

The sixth one is from the same source 2 weeks apart. I did the same treatment as above. When I saw scratching and spitting food out,I added Furan2 and quinine sulfate to cover uronema. This time it went smoothly and the fish stopped scratching and ate but I was soo stupid. The fish ate well and looked fine except it looked like it had some slight glossy area on one side of its body. Basically, one side of its body was perfectly smooth and the other side was not as smooth. You could only barely see it if it turned its body at an angel. Since this was barely noticeable, I was doubting if I was just too nervous. Reading on XXXXX(well known contributor's) recommendation for freshwater dip to deal with uronema in addition to meds, I dipped the fish for 10 minutes and it died almost immediately after the dip. I did see some white stuff come out of his gills but I don't know if its the buffer I added, a parasite or just mucus. During the dip, it tried to jump and when it loss balance, I immediately scooped it back. Needless to say it died in short order following the dip. It turned out that the issue with the scales seemed like minor injury or perhaps recovery from uronema and not a open red infection. :facepalm:
If it were not for the dip, I know it would still have been with me!:facepalm::facepalm::headwallblue:::headwallblue::headwallblue::headwallblue: I was this close! I was debating the dip based on my past experience, and I should of gone with my gut instinct. I'm pretty sure if I left quinine in for another week and finished the transfer he would be cured as I saw improvements every day. I fattened him up from being very skinny and his appetite improved every day. Damn I miss him.. Durring the week I had him, every morning, he would be waiting for me to throw in his pellets. Why did I do something soo stupid!!






Are Starcki's intolerant of hypo and dips or is it the parasites causing issues with dips? What the hell is going wrong here?
I thought damsels are hardy! Is it collection issue? Parasites biting the gills? Distrubitor issues? Or is it my method? I've covered ich (transfer), internal parasite/fluke (gel tek) , uronema (quinine and nitrofurazone).
I want these bastard parasites out of my life!

I don't know what to do. If I do dips or hypo, I stress it out. But if I let it be it can get uronema, ich or die suddenly months latter. If I do tank transfer, uronema comes in to complicate things. UUGH this blows so much.

Someone please help me figure what I'm doing wrong! This is my dream fish.
Any help is greatly and sincerely appreciated!

If I succeed someday, I will :celeb3::celeb3::celeb3:: and THANK YOU SOO MUCH!


I'm thinking of finding one on LA's diver's den as they have already observed/treated them. I'm pretty sure this will eliminate uronema risk.
The approach for ich would be to do tank transfer 5 times with or without quinine.
To deal with internal parasites, I will feed NLS soaked in gel tek for a week again.
Please any suggestions, advice?
No hypo, no dips whatsoever.
 
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Wow,
You sure have done a lot to your fish before they ever get a chance.

Such traumatic stories.

I have a pair of Starkii's for the past 6 months. I treated them as Damsels, with just a higher price tag. I added them to a tank with about a dozen other damsels plus lots of other fish.

They eat everything, and don't pick on anyone.
 
BigOldReef,

Thanks for the response, what source did you get yours?
Did they come as a pair or did you randomly bought two?

Thanks


Wow,
You sure have done a lot to your fish before they ever get a chance.

Such traumatic stories.

I have a pair of Starkii's for the past 6 months. I treated them as Damsels, with just a higher price tag. I added them to a tank with about a dozen other damsels plus lots of other fish.

They eat everything, and don't pick on anyone.
 
Mine came from a Vendor here in Los Angeles. They had a tank with 5 or 6 and I picked out 2.

I added an Achilles last month who got a bit of Ich, but nothing ever affected the Damsels.
 
I wouldn't do prophylactic treatment of a damsel. Just quarantine and observe. I've had my starkii since 2006 and he has been bulletproof and a good community member.

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk 2
 
You really are a fish killer. Please stop buying real fish and buy plastic fish instead. You basically don't know how to care for them or the water so you should stop fish keeping and quit killing cute innocent little animal fish.
 
All the fish you killed could have been in the hands of someone who is competent. Those fish you killed could have lived a long healthy life. You show any lack of morality after the second fish, not to even mention lack of any fish keeping skills. If fish are dying you stop the loss and not keep continuing to kill live animals. All the crap chemicals you expose them to you already sentence them to death. I would tell you how to keep fish as I am an expert fish keeper, but your lack of judgement for the fundamental fish keeping practices is just beyond teachable. Shut down your fish tank before you kill more innocent creatures. That's my advice to you.
 
I've had two. One from Live Aquaria, which I sold because he was digging like crazy!

The other from Among The Reef, which I still have. Beautiful, bulletproof fish (in my experience), but sand diggers!
 
I've had two. One from Live Aquaria, which I sold because he was digging like crazy!

The other from Among The Reef, which I still have. Beautiful, bulletproof fish (in my experience), but sand diggers!

Now here's a guy that knows how to keep fish. Truth of the matter is almost all fish are bulletproof if you know how to take care of the water and environment. The fish will take care of themselves if you take care of the water.
 
Unfortunately many fish at LFS have some sort of infection. Rarely
do I see fish that need no qt or Ht . Almost all infected with something. Usuallly looking at the surrounding fish in the surrounding tanks reveal something . Most often the tanks are plumbed together. So if you see something in another fish , you have to presume that is in the water and either they have or will have it . I agree that some fish can't handle FW dips . Is the fw dip same temp, same pH and aerated? If not that needs to be corrected. I put mine in a black plastic container so they don't stress out more. I watch carefully. At first sign of stress , I put them back in saltwater. Sometimes my dip only lasts 2 minutes . Still better than nothing . The FW dip helps remove flukes and any free swimming amyloodinium (velvet). After the fw dip they go straight into TAnk Transfer method to start the ick removal process. The water should be within similar parameters of the LFS water. I usually have two tanks that are setup for treatment , one for the first 3 days and the other to receive the next transfer. I then disinfect the first tank and ready it for the next transfer in 3 days. Now what I also do is often medicate with General Cure which has metronidazole ( for uronema) and praziquantel for flukes and parasites during each tank transfer . You will need to have on hand ( Metronidazole for Uronema, chloroquine (for ick), copper and it's corresponding test kit for velvet .
 
I forgot . You need formalin ms so that you can dip the fish in for Brooklynella . But while in Bare bones QT/HT you must check ammonia levels daily . Ammonia toxic and easily can reach deadly levels within 2 to 3 days . I usually see it rise in 2 days . So when someone tells you don't know how to keep fish . I see it as a shortcoming on the suppliers that fail to safeguard the fish upon receiving and shipping . I don't get this attitude of quick shipping and passing the buck . All of them including the LFS know better or should know better . So when a novice just entering the hobby is discouraged or blame is being passed down because the fish are dying , whose fault is it really. How is he/she supposed to know the in and outs of treating fish , not knowing that 5 rampant parasite species can cause death within a week. Maybe the suppliers should produce a book about diagnosing and treating fish / inverts / corals and requiring it as a first read before livestock is even purchased. Fat Chance . Sorry for the rant :deadhorse::deadhorse:
 
I forgot . You need formalin ms so that you can dip the fish in for Brooklynella . But while in Bare bones QT/HT you must check ammonia levels daily . Ammonia toxic and easily can reach deadly levels within 2 to 3 days . I usually see it rise in 2 days . So when someone tells you don't know how to keep fish . I see it as a shortcoming on the suppliers that fail to safeguard the fish upon receiving and shipping . I don't get this attitude of quick shipping and passing the buck . All of them including the LFS know better or should know better . So when a novice just entering the hobby is discouraged or blame is being passed down because the fish are dying , whose fault is it really. How is he/she supposed to know the in and outs of treating fish , not knowing that 5 rampant parasite species can cause death within a week. Maybe the suppliers should produce a book about diagnosing and treating fish / inverts / corals and requiring it as a first read before livestock is even purchased. Fat Chance . Sorry for the rant :deadhorse::deadhorse:

HE KILLED SIX FISH IN A ROW. DOES THAT TELL YOU SOMETHING??? IF IT WAS ONE FISH MAYBE IT WASN'T HIS FAULT. SIX FISH!!! ONE AFTER ANOTHER. After the second fish he killed, he didn't get the message that his water is off. I also can see that you don't know how to keep fish. If you are treating for any disease, then your water is wrong in the first place. I never dip any fish into any fish sauce. I have eight starcki damsels. Not one. And all of them are thriving. Purchased them all at the same time. The only time I would dip fish if it were fish and chips. You shouldn't have any fish disease if you started your tank right in the first place. If your tank water parameters was right, disease wouldn't break out. Most of the time diseases and fish dying is because there is something wrong with the water.
 
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