APEX and Probes and Controlling Them

[malx]

Hi, Everyone.

With the new system I am building, I will need two PH probes, a Salinity Probe, and Temp Probe, and I'd also like to utilize an ORP Probe and also leak dectors.

Here's what I'm getting:
The controller: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/apex-controller-gold-system-neptune-systems.html

Backup controller and to monitor Ammonia: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/seneye-reef-monitor.html

Leak Detection for Apex: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/solid-surface-advanced-leak-detection-probe-neptune-systems.html

Breakout Box for Apex: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/neptune-systems-i-o-breakout-box.html (controls lights and other on/off things)

Power Bar for Apex: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/energy-bar-8-neptune-systems.html (need more plugs)

ATO System: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/tunze-osmolator-universal-3155-auto-top-off.html

AI Hyrda Light: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/hydra-fiftytwo-hyperdrive-aqua-illumination.html

Calcium Reactor: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/vertex-rx-c-6d-calcium-reactor.html

Does anyone have any experience hooking all of these up to the highest model Neptune Apex? Here's how I'd like them to work.

Salinity Probe -- If Salinity Drops, shut off ATO system and Alert. If Salinity rises, Alert.

Temp Probes -- If Temp is too high, shut off lights and Alert. If Temp too low, Alert and engage one of the two heaters. One heater will be set to heat below 77.8 and the second to heat below 77.7 to reduce the number of cycles of each heater for longer life Via the APEX controller.

ORP probe -- Would like this as an way of alerting if something is out of whack.

PH Probe 1 -- Monitor the PH in the reef tank between a range of 7.8-8.5. If PH is too low, kill calcium reactor.

PH Probe 2 -- Monitor PH in the Calcium Reactor between a range of 6.5-6.7, if PH in Calcium reactor drops below 6.5, kill the CO2 Solenoid Valve to stop CO2 from going into the PH until it rises.

Let me know if anyone has any success with something similar and how they hooked everything up.

Thanks!
Joey

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

Ammonia should not be present in an established aquarium, I don't even have a test kit for it. Salinity should be pretty stable also, you can adjust on a water change IF necessary.
Even if it drifts it does it slowly. My charting is always either .025 -.026.
IMHO you do not need these extra expenses.
Truthfully I have an ORP probe & change it yearly, but there can be such a big swing in ORP that it's practically useless.

 

[FirstContact]

Check out the Neptune System's Forums for all the neat things you can do with your new Apex! I just added an AFS to my system.

Good Luck

 

[BlurrVT]

My advice would be to start here:
https://www.neptunesystems.com/support/docs/

Read the comprehensive reference manual. It will walk you through things step by step and give programming examples of most of the things you're looking to do. The Apex will pretty much do anything you want it to, you just have to know how to talk to it Always keep in mind, it will do exactly what you tell it to do, for better or worse. If you have any questions on some specific lines of code or want some feedback on your programming, I'm sure everyone would be glad to help. You can also check out the Neptune forums. There is a ton of good info there as well.

 

[malx]

Thanks for the links those are helpful! I'll take a read and let you know if I find anything concrete. Good call also on the Ammonia. Question about your ORP, in the history of your tank what caused the swings?


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[slief]

I do everything you are looking to do with my Apex and much much more. It all works great. I monitor my salinity and use it as part of my alarms and failsafes. I monitor my tank pH and use it as part of my alarms and failsafes. I monitor my ORP and use it as part of my alarms. I monitor my calcium reactor pH and use it for my Co2 control even though my Apex never has to intervene due to using a masterflex feed pump and a good regulator. I use leak detection as part of my alarms and failsafes. I use my breakout boxes for sump level monitoring, ATO, push button control of my mixing pump as well as part of my fail safes for sump level and even use it to notify me if my breakout box is unplugged. The sky is pretty much the limit with the Apex and it's an invaluable part of my system.

That said, if you are going to monitor ORP and you want two pH probes, you will need to add a PM1 for the 2nd pH probe. As such, add that to your list of Apex components. The base unit will support the first pH probe and the ORP probe, the PM1 will be required for the 2nd pH probe. Or you can use the base unit for the two pH probes and use the PM1 for the ORP probe.

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

To tell you the truth extra large water changes are all I have noted.
I'm pretty stable over 300.

 

[malx]

To tell you the truth extra large water changes are all I have noted.
I'm pretty stable over 300.

Thanks.

 

[malx]

I do everything you are looking to do with my Apex and much much more. It all works great. I monitor my salinity and use it as part of my alarms and failsafes. I monitor my tank pH and use it as part of my alarms and failsafes. I monitor my ORP and use it as part of my alarms. I monitor my calcium reactor pH and use it for my Co2 control even though my Apex never has to intervene due to using a masterflex feed pump and a good regulator. I use leak detection as part of my alarms and failsafes. I use my breakout boxes for sump level monitoring, ATO, push button control of my mixing pump as well as part of my fail safes for sump level and even use it to notify me if my breakout box is unplugged. The sky is pretty much the limit with the Apex and it's an invaluable part of my system.

That said, if you are going to monitor ORP and you want two pH probes, you will need to add a PM1 for the 2nd pH probe. As such, add that to your list of Apex components. The base unit will support the first pH probe and the ORP probe, the PM1 will be required for the 2nd pH probe. Or you can use the base unit for the two pH probes and use the PM1 for the ORP probe.

Thanks for this! The APEX I'm getting already comes with a PM2. Can I hook up both a PM1 and PM2 as well?

I imagine I'd need:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ph-or...systems.html?gclid=CP6m0KWpqswCFUiGfgodflsJng

And http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-lab-grade-ph-probe.html

To monitor the PH in the Calcium Reactor.

I've also added a breakout box to my list. How big is your system and how many leak detectors do you have and where are they positioned? Also can you give me an idea of how your breakout box is wired? This it the first time I'm doing something like this and not too sure how to handle the breakout box portion.

 

[slief]

Thanks for this! The APEX I'm getting already comes with a PM2. Can I hook up both a PM1 and PM2 as well?

I imagine I'd need:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ph-or...systems.html?gclid=CP6m0KWpqswCFUiGfgodflsJng

And http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-lab-grade-ph-probe.html

To monitor the PH in the Calcium Reactor.

I've also added a breakout box to my list. How big is your system and how many leak detectors do you have and where are they positioned? Also can you give me an idea of how your breakout box is wired? This it the first time I'm doing something like this and not too sure how to handle the breakout box portion.

Yes, you can add all those modules. I have both a PM1 and PM2 connected to my system.

My system is about 650 gallons in total. I have 4 leak sensors. One near my pumps, one near one of my sumps, one in a closet next to my tank where some of my plumbing is routed to and one leak sensor in my shed outside where my mixing tanks, RODI and calcium reactor are located.

You are correct about the PM1 and probe you linked to (for controlling your Ca reactor) though I would spend the extra $10 and get the Neptune Lab Grade probe. I've had great success and longevity from the Neptune lab grade ones and have no experience with the generic BRS one. Neptunes lab grade probes are very high quality and should last you years with minimal calibration.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/neptune-systems-lab-grade-ph-probe.html

As for the breakout box, mine is custom made. The regular breakout box is very straight forward and has one common wire connection (ground) and 6 individual connections. Float switches all have 2 wires and they are either normally open or normally closed. One wire would connect to the common/ground and the other to one of the 6 signal connections (1-6). Each float from there would connect to the common and a dedicated signal connection.

 

[malx]

Yes, you can add all those modules. I have both a PM1 and PM2 connected to my system.

My system is about 650 gallons in total. I have 4 leak sensors. One near my pumps, one near one of my sumps, one in a closet next to my tank where some of my plumbing is routed to and one leak sensor in my shed outside where my mixing tanks, RODI and calcium reactor are located.

You are correct about the PM1 and probe you linked to (for controlling your Ca reactor) though I would spend the extra $10 and get the Neptune Lab Grade probe. I've had great success and longevity from the Neptune lab grade ones and have no experience with the generic BRS one. Neptunes lab grade probes are very high quality and should last you years with minimal calibration.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/neptune-systems-lab-grade-ph-probe.html

As for the breakout box, mine is custom made. The regular breakout box is very straight forward and has one common wire connection (ground) and 6 individual connections. Float switches all have 2 wires and they are either normally open or normally closed. One wire would connect to the common/ground and the other to one of the 6 signal connections (1-6). Each float from there would connect to the common and a dedicated signal connection.

Thanks for the tip! One final question. How often do you change your probes out? I hear they go bad after some time.

 

[malx]

Thanks for the tip! One final question. How often do you change your probes out? I hear they go bad after some time.

Thanks!

Also what kind of heaters do you have?

Do you happen to have Jager Heaters set up with an APEX? If so, how is that configured/work? I was going to go with HMO heaters but they require a external controller. Would prefer to use a heater with an internal controller, but that works with an external controller for accuracy.

Also, on a 55 gallon tank with a 25 gallon sump was going to go with two 150W heaters. Any thoughts on that?

I keep my home around 76 during the day and 70 at night.

Let me know,
Joey

 

[slief]

Thanks for the tip! One final question. How often do you change your probes out? I hear they go bad after some time.

I change them out when they don't calibrate properly. I usually get 3 or more years out of my lab grade probes.

 

[malx]

Thanks for the tip!


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