OxInYourBox
Premium Member
$150 from what Curt told me a couple days ago so pretty much the same as the DC8.
Apex Controller - Details?
- Thread starter mcliffy2
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$150 from what Curt told me a couple days ago so pretty much the same as the DC8.
BigAirHarper
New member
Hey guys, I have been anxiously following this thread awaiting the release of the Apex. I have never owned a controller before, but I really want to start being able to monitor my tank from afar with my iPhone
That said, I have a question that may be dumb, can you run an auto top off with a controller like the Apex and how would you program it/set it up?
That said, I have a question that may be dumb, can you run an auto top off with a controller like the Apex and how would you program it/set it up?
phuzzykins
New member
There are many different ways to run a top-off program with a Neptune controller. The simplest version (what I use on my Solana) simply uses a single float switch connected to the Neptune I/O breakout box, and the following three lines of code control an AquaLifter pump:
If Switch1 CLOSED Then ATO ON
If Switch1 OPEN Then ATO OFF
Max Change 030 M Then ATO OFF
The I/O breakout box is a separate purchase (around $40, I think) from the controller itself. If you prefer, you can wire up your own cable to plug into the I/O port on the controller, which is a Mini-DIN 8 pin connector.
If Switch1 CLOSED Then ATO ON
If Switch1 OPEN Then ATO OFF
Max Change 030 M Then ATO OFF
The I/O breakout box is a separate purchase (around $40, I think) from the controller itself. If you prefer, you can wire up your own cable to plug into the I/O port on the controller, which is a Mini-DIN 8 pin connector.
Two comments re preceding post. First, I would recommend using two float switches wired together in parallel (one lead on each switch joined to one lead on the other switch and hooked up to a common terminal, other leads on each switch getting their own separate terminal connection), one high and one low. Low switch is used as primary and should turn pump on when water level drops and float drops with it. High switch is a kill switch and should be set so that when the float is down, it lets the first switch do its thing but when the float is up, it prevents refill pump from turning on or kills it. (Note that the code for switch 2 has to be after the code for switch 1 to ensure that it has "the last say" in the matter.) Here is my code for this:
If Switch1 OPEN Then RFL OFF
If Switch1 CLOSED Then RFL ON
If Switch2 CLOSED Then RFL OFF
Switch 1 has its float oriented so that the reed switch inside is open while the float is high (don't want it getting corroded and sticking shut); it closes when the water level drops to turn on the refill pump. Switch 2, on the other hand, has its float oriented so that the reed switch inside is open while the float is low; it closes if the water level rises so much (e.g., if the first switch sticks closed for some reason) as to potentially overflow the sump to prevent that from occurring.
You can get all the components you need -- switch, heat-deformable hanging bracket material strips, tubing to fit over the leads coming out of the switch (put silicone around the base of it and in the top of it to prevent water from getting into the leads), etc. -- at aquahub.com
Second, unless you want to spend a lot of time bent over tiny pins and/or are very good with a soldering iron, I'd recommend using the breakout box. Here is a link to thread re my experience doing it DIY. : http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1135897&highlight=solder
If Switch1 OPEN Then RFL OFF
If Switch1 CLOSED Then RFL ON
If Switch2 CLOSED Then RFL OFF
Switch 1 has its float oriented so that the reed switch inside is open while the float is high (don't want it getting corroded and sticking shut); it closes when the water level drops to turn on the refill pump. Switch 2, on the other hand, has its float oriented so that the reed switch inside is open while the float is low; it closes if the water level rises so much (e.g., if the first switch sticks closed for some reason) as to potentially overflow the sump to prevent that from occurring.
You can get all the components you need -- switch, heat-deformable hanging bracket material strips, tubing to fit over the leads coming out of the switch (put silicone around the base of it and in the top of it to prevent water from getting into the leads), etc. -- at aquahub.com
Second, unless you want to spend a lot of time bent over tiny pins and/or are very good with a soldering iron, I'd recommend using the breakout box. Here is a link to thread re my experience doing it DIY. : http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1135897&highlight=solder
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BigAirHarper
New member
If you google it, you can click on other links other than the home page Some of the links are kinda messed up with the APEX which is why I assume it's under construction.
Here is the pre-order link: http://www.neptunesys.com/index.php...facturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26
Some of the links are kinda messed up with the APEX which is why I assume it's under construction.Here is the pre-order link: http://www.neptunesys.com/index.php...facturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26
BigAirHarper
New member
Ok so I have another question concerning the aquanotes/web server controllability. One thing that I really was looking forward to being able to do was monitor/control the APEX from my iPhone. However I noticed that you have to have Windows to run the Aquanotes software. I have a Mac so would I still be able to control my Apex wirelessly via my iphone? Or would I need to have aquanotes on my computer in order to do such a thing? I was just a little confused because I saw on some aquanotes screenshots where you can set the seasonal lighting, temp, etc. and was hoping you could do all that via my iphone w/o aquanotes.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15057182#post15057182 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by szwab
I thought he had said in the vid all but the probes. Still a goood price considering
I looked again at the video, we're both slightly wrong in our memory. Curt said temp/ph probes but he gestured at all three wrapping his fingers around all three when talked about price. The video from the show ( http://www.reefbuilders.com/2009/04/08/apex-aquarium-controller-neptune-systems-video-updated-pics/ ) at timestamp 3:00.
I guess this was a case of wishful listening on my part that ORP sould be included.
thebradybunch
New member
Marine Depot has them on their website available for pre-ordering. I wonder if it will take longer to get it from them then it would directly from Neptune Systems
Ya think it may be because the revamped web site isn't completed yet, and therefore pre-ordering isn't officially available? The main page still says it's down for maintenance.... let's all respect that.... Be patient... I have no doubt Curt will post a "Go for it!" message at the appropriate time.
I wonder if Neptune can toss a coupon or other incentive to us for ordering through them rather than a retailer (if their retail agreements don't preclude that). Ordering through the direct Neptune site allow Neptune to capture much more margin as opposed to using retailers.
Retailers offer specials such as free shipping (Marine Depot qualifies this for free shipping), x% off any single regularly priced item (my LFS superstore offered 25% off any single item recently).
Retailers offer specials such as free shipping (Marine Depot qualifies this for free shipping), x% off any single regularly priced item (my LFS superstore offered 25% off any single item recently).
OxInYourBox
Premium Member
Woohoo-Looking forward to this!!!
phuzzykins
New member
Premium Aquatics has the Apex available for pre-order at $489.00 with free shipping on their web site.
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