API test kit

[jaybfresh]

It's been years since I have had to test a (possibly) cycling tank. I can't really figure out exactly what my API test kit is reading for ammonia and nitrates, and I'm not sure why I'd have both at the same time (nitrites are very clearly 0).

Thoughts on what the pictured readings are?

 

[lapin]

my guess
.35 ammonia
10 nitrate

 

[Uncle99]

I will second that, those numbers look correct to me as well

 

[mcgyvr]

It is not uncommon at all for API test kits to show .25ppm of ammonia on tanks of any age..

Knowing how the results were trending over multiple samples would let someone know if your tank is still cycling or whatever.. 1 sample is not sufficient..
I would likely ignore the slight ammonia reading..

 

[jrill]

A simple thing alot of fun folks miss with the API is the vial is supposed to be held right up against the white of the card to read. Sometimes that helps.

 

[jaybfresh]

For what it's worth, I got a seachem ammonia badge that reads 0. I'm planning to order a salifert kit too to be sure, but I'm thinking I have a false positive reading on the ammonia.

 

[mcgyvr]

For what it's worth, I got a seachem ammonia badge that reads 0. I'm planning to order a salifert kit too to be sure, but I'm thinking I have a false positive reading on the ammonia.

From what I understand those badges are notoriously inaccurate..
Don't waste your money on another test kit IMO..
Ammonia test kits are basically useless post cycle so its just flushing money down the toilet at this point..
Wait another week then call it zero and move forward..

 

[jaybfresh]

I left out the important detail that I set up a new tank with live rock from a LFS. So I wasn't sure what to expect regarding a cycle.

I think both the API kit and seachem badge can have trouble, but since I have nitrates present and rising with ghost feeding 0 ammonia makes more sense.

 

[Rover88]

Jay,

My API ammonia test kit has always shown a 'little' bit of ammonia in saltwater. I have something like 30 tests done on my tank since it started and only at one point was there a noticeable rise in my cycle. As I'm fairly sure this late in the game I don't have ammonia (And nothing has shown signs of being stressed by it) I just chalked up that color to my 'zero' mark. Otherwise the test kit works just fine because it CAN still pick up ammonia when it happens.

I got curious as to how accurate it was so I made a solution of old tank water with added pure cleaning ammonia, and sure enough it registered just fine that it found ammonia.

I wound up buying one of those seachem ammonia badges for my quarantine tank, but the only reason I did was I was treating with cupramine, and it ruins the ammonia tests that API use because of the specific process. It turned them blue. While the seachem badge isn't exactly precise, I can use it in much the same way I use my ammonia tests now. All I'm looking for is the color to be anything other then what I'm used to seeing, then its time for a water change/cleaning/other action.

 

[mcgyvr]

I left out the important detail that I set up a new tank with live rock from a LFS. So I wasn't sure what to expect regarding a cycle.

if you want to get specific
:worried2:
You have left out a few important details if you really want this conversation to continue..
There has been no time span stated.. <-- very important..
No amounts of live rock used? and did you use dry rock?
Was the live rock kept wet/moist and used within 24 hours of coming from the LFS..
No tank data,etc....

 

[jaybfresh]

Right, I'm just most concerned the accuracy of the API kit.

The rock went from the tank at the LFS to a bucket of saltwater in my car, to my tank in the span of 15 minutes. In my experience that means no cycle, and that's why I was confused about the apparent presence of ammonia.

 

[mcgyvr]

Right, I'm just most concerned the accuracy of the API kit.

The accuracy of the API kit should be listed as "good enough on most occasions"