Aqua Forest Questions

[Fretfreak13]

Some people have complained that their salts parameters have been off, this is the only bad thing I have heard besides the very short one sentence replays to any detailed questions you may have to ask the AF team in Poland. I have had no issues with my salt, but I don't really test the salt before I use it. Makes me wonder so I will be testing next time just to see.
There have been a number of people that tried at who swears it "crashed" their tank. I have yet to see anyone show any evidence of at causing harm to their tank. I would bet if you don't understand how bacteria driven low nutrient systems work you might have an issue from misuse of some of the products, or from not having the tank set up correctly for the system. In the end every "system" is going to have people who say their tank didn't respond well to it, who's fault it is will be unknown until people document proof of "crashes" instead of just making a claim and trying to lead people away. And some tanks may not respond well to a system like this, it's not for everyone, but nothing in their product line should cause any crashes if used correctly.

I like using the AF stuff though it is expensive for larger tanks. I had to switch back to kalk and a calcium reactor but still use a number of their bottles. If your switching from zeo you will find some of the products are not as potent and the system is much more mild. And I shake my stones daily in a reactor. I don't think stones work effectively without doing this I can't believe they tell people not to shake them. Maybe it's part of the system being a milder option...

Same thing happens with Zeo. I feel like its a lot more trusted because its been around longer and there have been countless successes, but there have been countless crashes too. Its always user error.

I will also shake my stones with AF. It feels wrong not to.

I agree with the "mild" description from Piper's statement above.

I only use Comp 123 , NP Pro and Pro Bio S. I have found it easy and sufficient in itself. If I needed to use some of their other products I would consider it but truthfully, everything is going fine with just these products. If anything I wish that the Comp 123 was more potent and required less volume dosing.

A bacteria driven system has been a joy to run but the AF product does not produce the washed out pastel look. It does not require that I comply with a full product line or the system doesn't work. I merely changed my ESV 2 part, Trace Hard, Koral Color, and Iodine for Comp 123.

The addition of the carbon source and bacteria I see as enhancing the effects of having live rock and matrix in the tank and sump.

I still use my ESV salt which I am very happy with. Not changing salt was one less shock to my system when I started the Comp123.

The Comp 123 seems to keep everything in balance. When I stopped the Iodine I did not lose my pinks or any other color, for that matter. I like to keep things very simple with minimal dosing products. That way if something goes wrong there are less variables to consider.

I think of the AF products the way I use them as simple, mild, and stable.
This allows me to focus on more important issues like nutrient import and export. I think that the NP Pro and Pro Bio S helps me run a lot more food through the tank while still managing to keep low numbers.

Based on what I've gathered it seems like I'l be using the same AF products you are. I have a lot of the little Zeo side goodies that I'll carefully add as well at least until the bottles are gone, but I will be carefully monitoring the tanks reactions. I just cant bare to throw away those expensive blue bottles. I really don't want to change my salt either, but its more because I basically have an entire bucket full of Tropic Marin Pro. Maybe as it gets closer to the end of its life I'll make the switch, but if all is great without it than whatever.

Just curious, how often do you find yourself going through the Comp123 bottles?

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2572979

Thanks for the link. I read through it and did see what you were talking about with the photos you provided. I'll keep your experience in mind.

 

[kevlow]

Same thing happens with Zeo. I feel like its a lot more trusted because its been around longer and there have been countless successes, but there have been countless crashes too. Its always user error.

I will also shake my stones with AF. It feels wrong not to.



Based on what I've gathered it seems like I'l be using the same AF products you are. I have a lot of the little Zeo side goodies that I'll carefully add as well at least until the bottles are gone, but I will be carefully monitoring the tanks reactions. I just cant bare to throw away those expensive blue bottles. I really don't want to change my salt either, but its more because I basically have an entire bucket full of Tropic Marin Pro. Maybe as it gets closer to the end of its life I'll make the switch, but if all is great without it than whatever.

Just curious, how often do you find yourself going through the Comp123 bottles?



Thanks for the link. I read through it and did see what you were talking about with the photos you provided. I'll keep your experience in mind.

I go through a set of the three in a month. I have a small system of seventy gallons but have the same consumption as large sps tanks. I have some very large pieces and a high volume of coral for a small volume of water. My consumption is 180ml per day.

I would be very careful about dosing your leftover Zeo products while dosing the Comp123. There may be some crossover and you end up doubling up on some trace elements. If you wish to do this, I would do your homework so you don't end up one of the crash stories.

For me, the best part of this has been that I do not need any other products for dosing. [ I do occasionally add some Acro Power AA]. I think they have pretty well thought this out and made it simple. Dose all three in equal amounts.

I was originally told that I would not need to continue dosing Lugols but I did so anyway. I also kept dosing my Koral Color. Things started getting out of balance and my Greens started taking over the tank. I stopped everything except Comp 123 and all cleared up. Colors returned to normal and got very sharp.

It is almost too easy and does not satisfy the need to tinker with the system.
Because of the results I have decided to stay on this only and satisfy my desire to tinker by working on nutrient import/export, flow, and lighting.

Good Luck and post a thread on your tank. I will look forward to following along.

Kevin

 

[bif24701]

I have researched this but I don't believe it's possible. One of the components goes into the AF mineral salts (component 3) and they put the mag in with the calcium in component 1. This makes me believe something in Component Strong is not compatible with the big three and if you mix it with two part it will precipitate out.



They are simply dosed into the tank with droppers or through a dosing pump


In terms of how AF is being received, I am not sold on the system by any means but I definitely believe a lot of it is user error, but that's also AF's fault because their instructions are either terrible or non-existent. They should have had YouTube videos explaining everything in great detail like 18 months ago. I recall reading one thread on a different website some time ago that ended up going 4 - 5 pages, some guy was having issues with AF, SPS were crashing, people were asking about his lighting and flow and AF sucks and yada yada, but nobody picked up on the very first page he had mentioned he was making adjustments to all his dosing amounts on a daily basis - The system is designed to have all three components dosed the same. No exceptions. So AF got a bunch of bad press from some guy using the system incorrectly because it's way to bloody hard to figure out how to use the system correctly.

After reading up on the Reef mineral salt is seems like just another additive like a two part but not part of the big three, CAL/ALK/MAG.

 

[bif24701]

From AF web site: "Component contains concentrated strontium and barium. The amount of strontium and barium depends on requirements for magnesium and calcium. 5 ml should be added to 1 litre of ready solution of calcium chloride and magnesium chloride. Recommended use with Aquaforest® MgCl2x6H2O and CaCl2x2H2O products. Capacity: bottle of 50ml
US:19ml should be added to 1 US gal."

So this make me feel like this is used like the traditional balling salts. The reason I want to go this way is because I have a 5 gallon dry bucket of each Calcium Chloride and Soda Ash. I can save a ton with concentrated additives to those. However I am not at the point even now that I am using 2part. My ATO/Kalk keeps my ALk and Cal right where then need to be, never drop or rise. But now that I have got things thriving and growing I know that's going to change.

 

[Alfrareef]

Aqua Forest Questions

I also have had a terrible AF experience and the only one to blame it's me for throwing a bunch of products I didn't had enough information in to my tank killing tens of sps and wasting hundreds of euros. I might try it again when AF takes some time to give good information about how to use the system.
As per the good examples I've been in the hobby for so long to understand that there are wonderfull tanks with all systems and even without any special system. There are lots of other things to consider. IMO if you invest in T5 light, carbon reactor and large WC sure you'll create a good base for a great reef tank.

I'm still trying programs and don't have a carbon reactor so I've started AF balling light and trying to understand the rest of their program.

 

[bif24701]

I also have had a terrible AF experience and the only one to blame it's me for throwing a bunch of products I didn't had enough information in to my tank killing tens of sps and wasting hundreds of euros. I might try it again when AF takes some time to give good information about how to use the system.
As per the good examples I've been in the hobby for so long to understand that there are wonderfull tanks with all systems and even without any special system. There are lots of other things to consider. IMO if you invest in T5 light, carbon reactor and large WC sure you'll create a good base for a great reef tank.

I'm still trying programs and don't have a carbon reactor so I've started AF balling light and trying to understand the rest of their program.

My tank is already doing well. Im researching some reef salts and balling methods. I know when my ALK/Cal demand increases so will it for other elements and I need a way to handle that.

 

[Alfrareef]

My tank is already doing well. Im researching some reef salts and balling methods. I know when my ALK/Cal demand increases so will it for other elements and I need a way to handle that.

Great. Glad to know that tank has recovered.
Good luck!

 

[JohnnyHildo]

No thread to this point unfortunately. I am just using their balling salts and the trace elements that go with them. I have been happy and see no reason to change, and I prefer the balling light method to the classic balling which is the main reason I didn't try switching to AF a while back. I have been considering using the FM Color Elements as well but I am still using up some other products first, I will likely try the CE afterwards and see if there is any improvement.

i use the same products as you (AF Cal+Mg, kH and trace elements with components strong added to the batches) and was curious if you are dosing all parts evenly to establish your parameters?

 

[bif24701]

Great. Glad to know that tank has recovered.
Good luck!

I have discovered that with my intense lighting that corals needed more food and NO3. Since then things have done very well.

 

[Potatohead]

From AF web site: "Component contains concentrated strontium and barium. The amount of strontium and barium depends on requirements for magnesium and calcium. 5 ml should be added to 1 litre of ready solution of calcium chloride and magnesium chloride. Recommended use with Aquaforest® MgCl2x6H2O and CaCl2x2H2O products. Capacity: bottle of 50ml
US:19ml should be added to 1 US gal."

So this make me feel like this is used like the traditional balling salts. The reason I want to go this way is because I have a 5 gallon dry bucket of each Calcium Chloride and Soda Ash. I can save a ton with concentrated additives to those. However I am not at the point even now that I am using 2part. My ATO/Kalk keeps my ALk and Cal right where then need to be, never drop or rise. But now that I have got things thriving and growing I know that's going to change.

I hear you on wanting to use what you have. A lot of people add the FM Trace 1/2/3 to their BRS salts, you can certainly do that. BRS did a video on it.

Regular (original) balling method does not dose magnesium as one of the three parts. It is designed to dose alk, calcium and mineral salts in equal amounts with the whole point being this creates an ion balance in the tank. This system was designed maybe 25 years ago or so?

Balling light is similar to two/three part in that you're basically dosing cal/alk/mag in whatever amounts you need, but BL has trace elements in it as well. FM (mainly Claude Schuhmacher) developed this maybe six or eight years ago. This does eventually create ionic imbalance if you don't do water changes in forever, so the system suggests around 10% every week or two which everyone does anyway.

i use the same products as you (AF Cal+Mg, kH and trace elements with components strong added to the batches) and was curious if you are dosing all parts evenly to establish your parameters?

I think there is a misunderstanding, I am not currently using AF, I am using FM balling light method. To answer your question though, the AF system is designed to dose everything evenly but it appears you are not using the mineral salts? In that case you're essentially making your own balling light method which you can dose unevenly. I'd be careful dosing one component compared to the others a lot more with the CS mixed in there though.

 

[JohnnyHildo]

To answer your question though, the AF system is designed to dose everything evenly but it appears you are not using the mineral salts? In that case you're essentially making your own balling light method which you can dose unevenly. I'd be careful dosing one component compared to the others a lot more with the CS mixed in there though.

i did a poor job describing what i'm using too.
i am using their entire system Ca, kH, Mg and the mineral salts and then adding component strong to them. initially i dosed exactly what i was with the tropic marin i was using but steadily have been dropping my dosing amount. when dosed evenly i'm ending up with elevated Ca and Mg levels so i've resorted to dosing less of them.

 

[bif24701]

I hear you on wanting to use what you have. A lot of people add the FM Trace 1/2/3 to their BRS salts, you can certainly do that. BRS did a video on it.

Regular (original) balling method does not dose magnesium as one of the three parts. It is designed to dose alk, calcium and mineral salts in equal amounts with the whole point being this creates an ion balance in the tank. This system was designed maybe 25 years ago or so?

Balling light is similar to two/three part in that you're basically dosing cal/alk/mag in whatever amounts you need, but BL has trace elements in it as well. FM (mainly Claude Schuhmacher) developed this maybe six or eight years ago. This does eventually create ionic imbalance if you don't do water changes in forever, so the system suggests around 10% every week or two which everyone does anyway.



I think there is a misunderstanding, I am not currently using AF, I am using FM balling light method. To answer your question though, the AF system is designed to dose everything evenly but it appears you are not using the mineral salts? In that case you're essentially making your own balling light method which you can dose unevenly. I'd be careful dosing one component compared to the others a lot more with the CS mixed in there though.

Thank you for this information. Now I understand what FM is doing with the BL and I think I like that much better. I see on the BRS website there is two type of balling light products. Which one should I chose?


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[Potatohead]

i did a poor job describing what i'm using too.
i am using their entire system Ca, kH, Mg and the mineral salts and then adding component strong to them. initially i dosed exactly what i was with the tropic marin i was using but steadily have been dropping my dosing amount. when dosed evenly i'm ending up with elevated Ca and Mg levels so i've resorted to dosing less of them.

Obviously adjust dosing amounts to keep parameters where you want them, but I personally would dose all equal amounts as that is how the system is designed. This is one of the reasons I didn't try the system, I just wonder what happens say if you are dosing to maintain alk and matching your calcium dose, but this is making your calcium rise slowly? So now you dose so calcium stays level but now alk is falling? In theory it should be 1:1 but we know that's not always the case.

Thank you for this information. Now I understand what FM is doing with the BL and I think I like that much better. I see on the BRS website there is two type of balling light products. Which one should I chose?


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The Trace 1/2/3 it sounds like you want. The other one is called Color Elements, which is not something you add to your macro element containers, this is dosed seperately and is totally optional.

The video you want to watch is here;

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=w8YryqSScKI

They talk about adding the FM Trace to BRS two part at the end.

 

[Lou Ekus]

With all the discussion about the "Balling Method" in this thread, I thought it was once again important to mention that if you want to use the original and true Balling Method, the ONLY Balling products made under the direct supervision of Hans-Werner Balling, the originator of the system, are made by Tropic Marin. These products are his exact formula. If you have ANY questions about the true Balling Method, I am always available to answer them. And here again is the link to the video of Hans-Werner Balling explaining his system in detail.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZy7RS8kEag&t=16s

 

[Myka]

First of all, I want to say that I don't think bacteria-driven systems of any brand should be in the hands of novice reef keepers because it takes a fair bit of know-how to recognize when you're messing things up.

Second, Aquaforest is a good option for novice reef keepers because regardless of it's poor presentation it is actually a very easy system to use. I do recommend that novice reef keepers stay away from the Coral A, B, V, E and also the NP Pro and bacteria products. Novice keepers should simply use the Components for dosing Ca, alk, Mg and micro/trace. If they need nutrient reduction, I find biopellets a better option for novice keepers.

FWIW, I've been using the Aquaforest Components since April last year. I used the A, B, V, E for a few months, but didn't get much for results. Now I just use the Components (see below) and Zeovit Pohl's Xtra (ammonia, nitrate, and aminos). I add some ProBioS once a week or so because I have it, not because I think it does anything. :lol: I don't use any type of nutrient reducer besides the skimmer and waterchanges. I use the Probiotic salt on my own tank. I use the Reef Salt and Sea Salt on several client tanks.

So I can add Components Strong 1/2/3 to my 2 part ALK/Cal/Mag solutions?

Kind of. You would need to also buy the AF Reef Mineral, and if you're using Mg sulfate (epsom salt) you will need to adjust mixing.

With AF, they use Magnesium chloride only, so it can be mixed with the Calcium chloride. Magnesium sulfate (epsom salt) cannot be mixed with Calcium chloride, but Magnesium chloride CAN be mixed with Calcium chloride. Are you using a Mg chloride/sulfate mix? I use a chloride/sulfate mix, and I'll explain below how I mix the parts.

Just to clear confusion, There is no "123" attached to the name of the Components Strong. Components Strong is a 4x 50mL bottle set that is only the micro/trace elements that are added to Parts 1, 2, and 3. Components 1+2+3+ is the pre-mixed 3x 5L jug set that is all-inclusive with macro, micro, and trace elements.

According to Triton, the AF method is low in sulfate which isn't surprising because they are using only Mg chloride, and no Mg sulfate. To remedy this, I mix it the following way:

Part 1:
Calcium chloride
Component Strong bottles #1 and #2

Part 2:
Sodium carbonate (the AF KH Buffer product is bicarbonate btw, so I bake it)
Components Strong bottle #3

Part 3:
AF Reef Mineral
Components Strong bottle #4

Part 4:
5:3 mix of Mg chloride:Mg sulfate

One last thing, as with all balling methods (including balling lite methods) where micro and trace elements are being added, all parts must be dosed equally. When there is an imbalance, such as alk is getting low, then you must manually add some plain sodium bicarb to bump it up. You do not adjust the alk doser head to be higher than the other doser heads.

I don't really want to get into the whole system but I want to add the balling and reef salt.

Who has used the salt and what are your thoughts? Just the reef salt, non probiotics.

The balling as in the Components 1+2+3+? The salt mix is just salt mix. It has lower alkalinity than a lot of mixes - usually around 7.5-8.5 for the plain Reef Salt. It does mix VERY easily and very quickly which I find is great. It's the fastest mixing salt I've ever used. All 3 of the AF salts mix fast like this. AF recommends mixing for at least 15 minutes. IMO, as long as you have a big pump to mix aggressively, the saltwater is usable in probably 5 mins.

Maybe it's part of the system being a milder option...

I totally agree that the AF system is much milder than Zeovit.

Just curious, how often do you find yourself going through the Comp123 bottles?

The Components are all the same strength provided you mix them up as directed. So the Components 1+2+3+ is the same strength as the "mix it yourself" version using the dry powders and adding the Components Strong.

That said, the Aquaforest Components are REALLY close to the strength of Randy's Recipe #2. RR#2 uses 78.16 grams sodium bicarbonate to make 1L of alkalinity solution. Aquaforest uses 80 grams per 1L.

Randy's Recipe #1 is twice the strength of Randy's Recipe #2. I'm not sure if there may be issues with the micro/trace elements in the AF system if the saturation was doubled.

After reading up on the Reef mineral salt is seems like just another additive like a two part but not part of the big three, CAL/ALK/MAG.

Yes, the Reef Mineral is what is often referred to in other method as "sodium chloride free salt". The addition of this part helps prevent elevated sodium and chloride due to using so much calcium and magnesium chloride.

 

[Myka]

With all the discussion about the "Balling Method" in this thread, I thought it was once again important to mention that if you want to use the original and true Balling Method, the ONLY Balling products made under the direct supervision of Hans-Werner Balling, the originator of the system, are made by Tropic Marin. These products are his exact formula. If you have ANY questions about the true Balling Method, I am always available to answer them. And here again is the link to the video of Hans-Werner Balling explaining his system in detail.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZy7RS8kEag&t=16s

Lou, "the balling method" no longer refers ONLY to Mr. Balling's system. It's great that Mr. Balling has started this trend and everyone has stolen his name to describe a method. Nowadays, the term "balling method" refers to any system where a "sodium chloride free salt" is added to help maintain ionic balance.

Nice try being stealth though!

 

[Myka]

Go another route please. Read up on AF. As someone mentioned earlier, great marketing, but that's about it.

It took me 5 plus months to recover from the "system".

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2572979

I just read your thread, and though Perry was trying to help you, it was poor understanding of the system and how it affects Acros that was causing you grief. This same thing would have happened if you were using Zeovit. The really poor descriptions provided by Aquaforest certainly don't help.

What happened in your system is that you were using several AF products to reduce nutrients in your tank when nutrients didn't need to be reduced. You were using Zeolites, PO4 minus, and also NP Pro. Not only the products, but you also had a low fish load providing scant nutrients at best. You bottomed out NO3 and PO4 and didn't make the necessary adjustments to help raise NO3 and PO4 to optimal levels. Adding the KNO3 without also adding KPO4 wasn't helping either since both NO3 and PO4 are needed for coral health. If you would have stopped the zeolites, PO4 minus, and NP Pro you would probably be a happy camper right now. I'm sorry you weren't able to get the help you needed at the time.

 

[bif24701]

I just read your thread, and though Perry was trying to help you, it was poor understanding of the system and how it affects Acros that was causing you grief. This same thing would have happened if you were using Zeovit. The really poor descriptions provided by Aquaforest certainly don't help.

What happened in your system is that you were using several AF products to reduce nutrients in your tank when nutrients didn't need to be reduced. You were using Zeolites, PO4 minus, and also NP Pro. Not only the products, but you also had a low fish load providing scant nutrients at best. You bottomed out NO3 and PO4 and didn't make the necessary adjustments to help raise NO3 and PO4 to optimal levels. Adding the KNO3 without also adding KPO4 wasn't helping either since both NO3 and PO4 are needed for coral health. If you would have stopped the zeolites, PO4 minus, and NP Pro you would probably be a happy camper right now. I'm sorry you weren't able to get the help you needed at the time.

Yea. That will do it. Corals need food and that the single best thing i have learned in the last months.


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[bif24701]

First of all, I want to say that I don't think bacteria-driven systems of any brand should be in the hands of novice reef keepers because it takes a fair bit of know-how to recognize when you're messing things up.

Second, Aquaforest is a good option for novice reef keepers because regardless of it's poor presentation it is actually a very easy system to use. I do recommend that novice reef keepers stay away from the Coral A, B, V, E and also the NP Pro and bacteria products. Novice keepers should simply use the Components for dosing Ca, alk, Mg and micro/trace. If they need nutrient reduction, I find biopellets a better option for novice keepers.

FWIW, I've been using the Aquaforest Components since April last year. I used the A, B, V, E for a few months, but didn't get much for results. Now I just use the Components (see below) and Zeovit Pohl's Xtra (ammonia, nitrate, and aminos). I add some ProBioS once a week or so because I have it, not because I think it does anything. :lol: I don't use any type of nutrient reducer besides the skimmer and waterchanges. I use the Probiotic salt on my own tank. I use the Reef Salt and Sea Salt on several client tanks.



Kind of. You would need to also buy the AF Reef Mineral, and if you're using Mg sulfate (epsom salt) you will need to adjust mixing.

With AF, they use Magnesium chloride only, so it can be mixed with the Calcium chloride. Magnesium sulfate (epsom salt) cannot be mixed with Calcium chloride, but Magnesium chloride CAN be mixed with Calcium chloride. Are you using a Mg chloride/sulfate mix? I use a chloride/sulfate mix, and I'll explain below how I mix the parts.

Just to clear confusion, There is no "123" attached to the name of the Components Strong. Components Strong is a 4x 50mL bottle set that is only the micro/trace elements that are added to Parts 1, 2, and 3. Components 1+2+3+ is the pre-mixed 3x 5L jug set that is all-inclusive with macro, micro, and trace elements.

According to Triton, the AF method is low in sulfate which isn't surprising because they are using only Mg chloride, and no Mg sulfate. To remedy this, I mix it the following way:

Part 1:
Calcium chloride
Component Strong bottles #1 and #2

Part 2:
Sodium carbonate (the AF KH Buffer product is bicarbonate btw, so I bake it)
Components Strong bottle #3

Part 3:
AF Reef Mineral
Components Strong bottle #4

Part 4:
5:3 mix of Mg chloride:Mg sulfate

One last thing, as with all balling methods (including balling lite methods) where micro and trace elements are being added, all parts must be dosed equally. When there is an imbalance, such as alk is getting low, then you must manually add some plain sodium bicarb to bump it up. You do not adjust the alk doser head to be higher than the other doser heads.



The balling as in the Components 1+2+3+? The salt mix is just salt mix. It has lower alkalinity than a lot of mixes - usually around 7.5-8.5 for the plain Reef Salt. It does mix VERY easily and very quickly which I find is great. It's the fastest mixing salt I've ever used. All 3 of the AF salts mix fast like this. AF recommends mixing for at least 15 minutes. IMO, as long as you have a big pump to mix aggressively, the saltwater is usable in probably 5 mins.



I totally agree that the AF system is much milder than Zeovit.



The Components are all the same strength provided you mix them up as directed. So the Components 1+2+3+ is the same strength as the "mix it yourself" version using the dry powders and adding the Components Strong.

That said, the Aquaforest Components are REALLY close to the strength of Randy's Recipe #2. RR#2 uses 78.16 grams sodium bicarbonate to make 1L of alkalinity solution. Aquaforest uses 80 grams per 1L.

Randy's Recipe #1 is twice the strength of Randy's Recipe #2. I'm not sure if there may be issues with the micro/trace elements in the AF system if the saturation was doubled.



Yes, the Reef Mineral is what is often referred to in other method as "sodium chloride free salt". The addition of this part helps prevent elevated sodium and chloride due to using so much calcium and magnesium chloride.

Ok great information! Thank you

When I make and add Mag I use a mix of Mag chloride with sulfate as in the BRS recipes. In fact I have only the BRS soda ash, calcium chloride, and make my own mix of Mag with BRS mag chloride and epsons salt 5:3 cups per gallon.


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[bif24701]

As of now I only use and need Kalk but as my corals grow and I buy more I'm sure I'll exceed its capacity to maintain ALK/Cal. Just started using AF Reef Salt and I like it so far. I have a simple method of nutrient control. Large skimmer (SRO-5000), 3 ea MarinePure blocks, 24ml of vinegar daily, I was using cheato until I found Vibrant and Phosphate RX, which I like so far. I'm doing well to keep NO3 at or around 10ppm, was much much lower and had to add Potassium Nitrate but fish load has seemed to catch up.


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