Aquabacs' Cadlights Artisan 50 Azooxanthellae Tank build
- Thread starter Aquabacs
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Aquabacs
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rekn
I get my crinoids locally and through a few different locations across the US. I normally either ask for them to be ordered in for me, have a fellow reefer tell me someone has one in, or a vendor gives me a call/text. They are one of those creatures that most stores do not carry on a regular basis or know the risks of ordering them, so they don't. For a starting point ask your LFS if they can order them in for you. I can reinforce more than having a good relation with your LFS and supporting them. If your LFS can not meet your needs, then seek elsewhere. Crinoids are delicate, normally don't ship well, and can get stressed easily. By picking them up locally it can avoid the stress of having them shipped or should I say re-shipped. Plus, during the upcoming summer months, they do not handle temp shifts well. They will quickly fall apart and once they get to a certain point, it is hard to bring them back. Crinoids are most of the time not covered by anyone's arrive alive guarantee, so if ordering online, you should take that into consideration. If you run into any roadblocks, feel free to PM me.
Mike
I get my crinoids locally and through a few different locations across the US. I normally either ask for them to be ordered in for me, have a fellow reefer tell me someone has one in, or a vendor gives me a call/text. They are one of those creatures that most stores do not carry on a regular basis or know the risks of ordering them, so they don't. For a starting point ask your LFS if they can order them in for you. I can reinforce more than having a good relation with your LFS and supporting them. If your LFS can not meet your needs, then seek elsewhere. Crinoids are delicate, normally don't ship well, and can get stressed easily. By picking them up locally it can avoid the stress of having them shipped or should I say re-shipped. Plus, during the upcoming summer months, they do not handle temp shifts well. They will quickly fall apart and once they get to a certain point, it is hard to bring them back. Crinoids are most of the time not covered by anyone's arrive alive guarantee, so if ordering online, you should take that into consideration. If you run into any roadblocks, feel free to PM me.
Mike
thanks aqua. i really appreciate the info. i have a 75g and may take a serious stab at an nps/crinoid tank.
Very impressive and beautiful tank. I've been following your thread in the shadows for awhile now and had a question about the flow you employ in your tank. I know it's primarily powered by your MP40 and MP10, but in terms of flow pattern, would you say your flow is more gyre style around that center island or rock, or more random/chaotic flow (but not necessarily turbulent). I'm curious cause you seem to be having incredible success with your your NPS animals, and everything I read says how important flow style/strength is for feeding. Thoughts and comments? Thanks!
Aquabacs
New member
I have actually removed the MP10 from the aquarium and only use the MP40. So you could consider the flow sort of "gyre" like. The MP40 is on the left back side of my aquarium, close to the left side glass panel, and set to max flow setting on reef crest mode. The MP40 is strong enough that if I "broadcast" feed cyclop-eeze at the the pump, the water will move in counter clockwise pattern around the rock stucture, wrapping the food completely around the reef. (Also my autofeeder is directly above the Vortech so the FM foods feed continuously this way)
Mike
Mike
Thanks for the reply!
Have you ever looked at the effect of your flow velocity on the feeding/uptake of your animals? I've read an article or two that showed for gorgs that as you increase the flow rate they'll take up more food, but as you reach a critical velocity the animal starts to not take up as much, most likely due to the higher flow inhibiting the polyp expansion.
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