Something doesn't make sense to me. In a 5l jug 220ml a day will only last 22 days. So that's 1050$ a year?
Aquaforest products- Component 1+2+3+
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Something doesn't make sense to me. In a 5l jug 220ml a day will only last 22 days. So that's 1050$ a year?
plyle02
Active member
Yes, that is why I think I will eventually head in the direction of CARX
Keep in mind that my tank has over 50 different acros, most are colonies too. So I do pull a heavy amount of the balling pre-mix. Cheers!
MichaelW
New member
380ml per day here! It's why I don't get the premises stuff and mix my own with powders to cut back the cost a little. Haven't actually worked out how much it costs to make for example 5 gallons of each yourself to compare to the premixed but I'm sure it's less. Not sure I want to know the actual amount it's costing me per month. I might cry.
plyle02
Active member
After seeing pics of your tank, the last thing I would do is cry, lol... The premix is amazing on my reef, and the lack of cost in trace is something that is under-addressed. Not having to buy several bottles of various trace formulas is so understated in both pre-mix and DIY mix. Cheers Michael!!!
MichaelW
New member
Completely agree. Its great not having to dose any other trace for anything and knowing that as it's linked to consumption you shouldn't really be over dosing (or under dosing) anything.
cham
New member
Aquaforest products- Component 1+2+3+
I'm with Perry, Im most likely to look at a Ca Rx soon or maybe even a kalk reactor to supplement along with the pre mix. I realize that using kalk won't allow all of the trace that will give the full benefit of the AF system but it's a lot better than what I've been doing and I can't justify high consumption costs to my accountant (wife)
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I'm with Perry, Im most likely to look at a Ca Rx soon or maybe even a kalk reactor to supplement along with the pre mix. I realize that using kalk won't allow all of the trace that will give the full benefit of the AF system but it's a lot better than what I've been doing and I can't justify high consumption costs to my accountant (wife)
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I'm switching from BRS 2 part to the aqua forest 1,2,3 and I'm tying to get a feel for what the strength of the aquaforest system is so I can up with the folloing: I have an 180gal system so
From the BRS calculator 167ml of BRS soda ash mixture raises the Alk of 180gallons of water 1.3 dKh.
From the aquaforest website 50ml of component 2 raises the Alk of 100liters or water 1.3 dKh. Converting liter to gallons gives you 341ml of component 2 raises the Alk of 180 gallons 1.3 dKh
So assuming this is correct the aquaforest system is almost exactly half the strength of the BRS system. Could someone verify my math? Based on Pyle02s experience this seems to be correct. I'm just trying to get a starting point to switch over and any input would be appreciated.
plyle02
Active member
I agree they are fairly close, and I would use the same set point and test daily, if you see an increase in alk, lower it, if you see a decrease, then increase your dosage. I would recommend to simply measure alk and use it to determine you set point on the doser. I did so every morning at the same time to get an accurate test and absorption rate. But, as Cham stated, the values will likely be close
I agree they are fairly close, and I would use the same set point and test daily, if you see an increase in alk, lower it, if you see a decrease, then increase your dosage. I would recommend to simply measure alk and use it to determine you set point on the doser. I did so every morning at the same time to get an accurate test and absorption rate. But, as Cham stated, the values will likely be close
Any idea where I went wrong with my calcs? Lol
Diesel3443
AEFW Distructor
Personally, I would just start low and work your way up. I dont see anything wrong with your calc
plyle02
Active member
Yes,
This is the best way. I started at 80ml and quickly that number grew. I am at now today 240ml. So I have seen my alk drop as low as 5.4 and zero issues with acros, it is now holding steady at 6.8dkh and that is exactly where I want to be. Calcium and Mag are totally inline based on the alk, 400 CA and 1260 Mag. The real benefit is the trace which absorbs at proper levels too. I will eventually get triton test and share. Cheers
plyle02
Active member
I am fairly certain that Debora has had a triton test done, and while I think she has moved to a CARX, I think the response from users will be better if the question is posed here: Cheers
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1490485151247025/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1490485151247025/
SchnitzelReef
Active member
Wondering if using just these 3 products will make a difference. I might order CoralV. Gunna see how it goes first
My question is about using Zeo mix. I use the AF Zeo mix/carbon/phos minus combo in my reactor. Is it still OK to use the AF balling method or just component strong to replace minerals? Where would the Reef Mineral salts come in to play? Same as Component strong?
General Zeo question, friend stated that Zeo strips nutrients I know but he said it strips bacteria as well and that I should dose ProbioS and NP pro as well if using Zeo. Anyone know if that is true?
General Zeo question, friend stated that Zeo strips nutrients I know but he said it strips bacteria as well and that I should dose ProbioS and NP pro as well if using Zeo. Anyone know if that is true?
plyle02
Active member
Hello,
To answer question regarding AF Zeomix with balling method, it is actually what I use. The method is AF Component 123, which is a balling lite version. This is unrelated to AF Zeomix as one is concerning mineral and trace, and the combo of the 3 medias is for controlling N&P. Yes, if you are using AF Zeomix, you should also be using Pro Bio S and NP Pro to maintain low nutrients. As far as Component Strong goes, it is to be used with the option of mixing your own components to yield the same effect as the pre-mixed formula of AF Component 123. May I also suggest use of AF Build, Energy, Vitality, and Aminomix, these help to maintain coloration of corals while the system runs very low nutrients. Hope this helps
To answer question regarding AF Zeomix with balling method, it is actually what I use. The method is AF Component 123, which is a balling lite version. This is unrelated to AF Zeomix as one is concerning mineral and trace, and the combo of the 3 medias is for controlling N&P. Yes, if you are using AF Zeomix, you should also be using Pro Bio S and NP Pro to maintain low nutrients. As far as Component Strong goes, it is to be used with the option of mixing your own components to yield the same effect as the pre-mixed formula of AF Component 123. May I also suggest use of AF Build, Energy, Vitality, and Aminomix, these help to maintain coloration of corals while the system runs very low nutrients. Hope this helps
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