aquapod 24g overflow?

2wheeltyson

New member
i just got an aquapod 24g. i'm trying to figure out the filtration? is it supposed to be a true overflow or are the two back chambers always the same water level as the display?
 
so are you saying the water level in the back 2 chambers will stay within 1-2" of the display. my problem is that after 2 weeks i'm getting a film on the top of the water. when i started the tank i used ls,lr and established water straight from a friends 600g reef. i only have 4 small crabs and only fed once the first week.
 
my 12g aquapod did the same thing for about 2 weeks and then it started to clear up and i am now not having any problems. i am also going to block off the lower holes on the intake side so it is more of a surface skimmer.
 
i made an extra weir to close of more of the overflow intake (trying to increase velocity) and redirected the flow of the outlet. it seems to have worked.
 
Re: aquapod 24g overflow?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12647412#post12647412 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 2wheeltyson
i just got an aquapod 24g. i'm trying to figure out the filtration? is it supposed to be a true overflow or are the two back chambers always the same water level as the display?

I also have a 24 gallon aquapod. I do not believe the false wall is completely sealed or the weir vents completely seal the back chamber.

One of my fish got into the back chambers, and I tried to syphon off some water from the back chambers and noticed the level of the whole tank dropped.

You might want to try the eggcrate mod on chamber 1 to help with you filtration. It beats using that big blue sponge!

You shouldn't see much evaporation with the aquapod since the water can't really escape.

Good luck with your new tank!
 
after i got my 24G aquapod, the first thing i did was modify the overflow and filter section.

cut a piece of acrylic to cover all the filter openings except for the top ones.

transformed the top overflow into a true furface skimming overflow using half the case of a miniDV tape.

this took care of the water volume in the main display, it will never go down lower than the overflow intake.

the filter section is all connected. the center divider has two openings in it. one on the bottom, and one in the middle. so the water volume goes down evenly across the whole rear (and display if you don't block off the intakes)

so i added an extra "over" baffle inbetween the center divider and return pump. this effectively transformed the whole setup. the water level now only changes in the return section wehre the pump sits (which i replaced with a maxijet 400 (wanted slower flow through the filter section)


hope this helps!
although you should really do all of this before you add water to it :)


J.
 
Last edited:
I have had my 24g AP running for 3 years and never had any of these problems. I just used all the vent covers that came with the tank, except for 2 or 3 covers (can't remember) and it has always flowed nicely.

the only problem that I have is that there isn't enough circulation. My return is a mj1200, but I had to add another powerhead in the tank. before I added the new powerhead I had bad algea problems, but it all vanished when I put in the powerhead.

Also be sure to scrape the vents with a razor blade as they get clogged with corraline algea and will prevent flow.
 
I tossed out all the weirs and made a solid insert cut from the side of an old Rubbermaid tote. The black plastic pieces that came with the aquarium fit poorly and allowed too much water to leak through lower in the tank for true effective surface skimming. My water level in the rear chambers was at best 1" below the main aquarium waterline with the stock configuration. With my homemade insert, I can lower the water level in the overflow chamber to practically zero if desired.

The stock pump that came with my AP 24 was raising the water temperature too much (85º), so I switched to a Maxi Jet 1200. Both pumps are 20 Watt. Unfortunately that made things even worse (88º). I switched to a Maxi Jet 900 (8.5 W) plus a pair of Koralia Nano powerheads(3.5W) to compensate for lack of flow. My temperature now tops out at 81.5º for about two hours each night and I get tons of flow exactly where I want it.

Good luck with your AquaPod!
 
thats exactly what i was going to do except using acrylic instead of rubbermaid. i'm also thinking about doing a over/under fuge back there. i'll post pics when i ge a chance.
 
Acrylic is probably your best bet. I just happened to have an old tote with a hole in the bottom that provided the material for a cheap fix. Look forward to seeing your modifications.
 
I'm in the process of my build for my AP24, it has 3 maxijet 900's. 1 is on all the time with a hydor flo on it in the top center of the back wall, the 2nd is attatched to the stock return with the y loc line, the 3rd is plumbed alon the top to a loc line y (another of the stock ones) to the oposite corner of the stock outlet. pumps 2 and 3 are on a wavetimer that runs them oposite each other. I'm using a piece of 1/8" acrylic cut to fill in all the grates and make a real overflow, I'm goin to cut a higher flow in the center divider i think to make the water level a bit hiher in the back.Although I'm not sure about that yet. I also have installed Nanotuners 3.36 lighting upgrade.
 
This is what I've been looking for, the AP24 owners to have a thread and share ideas. I'm with saltyESQ, I used the weirs that came with my AP and just slid them all down to get the overflow effect (a definite must). But I didn't even think about removing and replacing them with a solid piece of material.
 
Back
Top