Are sumps worth it in a nano?

djryan2000

New member
I have a 20 gallon nano and I'm considering adding a 10 gallon sump to it. Is this worth

I'd use a HOB overflow with float switches to cut off the return pump if I lost siphon. I know it's not *necessary* but how much would this help with nutrient control and stability?
I'm also considering it from an experience perspective - so I have experience with sumps for when I eventually upgrade.


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If we look at it from the increase in total water volume a 10g sump would take you from 20 gallons to maybe 28 gallons.. Thats a fairly considerable increase when you look at the percentages..
Compare that to something like a 75g tank and adding a 40g sump.. Certainly similar gains..

Its certainly adds a "fun/cool/experience" factor too.. Not as cool as a 1G sump on a 2 gallon tank but still fun in the nano world..
 
I ran a 15g sump on a 20g reef. I think its definitely worth it. Like mcgyvr said, you have the increased volume. You also get to put your heaters etc down there. Its also a good learning experience for when you move up to a larger system. It also makes for a good isolation/time out tank if you have fish misbehaving.

I had a HOB overflow and it was a constant source of nightmares. I had all the switches set, but those can stick....

If I were to do it again, I'd just drill my own overflow on the tank. Use a low profile overflow like from modular marine, or make your own. The whole process, drilling etc. is super easy.
 
I ran a 15g sump on a 20g reef. I think its definitely worth it. Like mcgyvr said, you have the increased volume. You also get to put your heaters etc down there. Its also a good learning experience for when you move up to a larger system. It also makes for a good isolation/time out tank if you have fish misbehaving.

I had a HOB overflow and it was a constant source of nightmares. I had all the switches set, but those can stick....

If I were to do it again, I'd just drill my own overflow on the tank. Use a low profile overflow like from modular marine, or make your own. The whole process, drilling etc. is super easy.



Is there anyway I can drill when the tank is already up and running with livestock?


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Thank you.
Do you think that putting the return pump high in the tank (need to figure out how still) and using a float switch / water level alarm like this - https://www.tunze.com/en.html?user_tunzeprod_pi1[predid]=-infoxunter038
Would be safe to prevent spillage?


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Are you talking about using a HOB overflow to drain to the sump? If so, I've had really good luck with them in the past. It's been 10 years or so since I've used one as I drill my tanks. That said, when I did use them, I setup my return pump on a battery backup and let it run. I liked the boxes that had a dual tube setup so that if one clogged, the other could handle the flow. I never used float switches to kill the power to the pump, although you in theory could do it.
 
Are you talking about using a HOB overflow to drain to the sump? If so, I've had really good luck with them in the past. It's been 10 years or so since I've used one as I drill my tanks. That said, when I did use them, I setup my return pump on a battery backup and let it run. I liked the boxes that had a dual tube setup so that if one clogged, the other could handle the flow. I never used float switches to kill the power to the pump, although you in theory could do it.



Yeah I'm talking about a HOB overflow. My primary concern is losing siphon and then the sump water flooding the tank.


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The best way to ensure you don't overflow the main tank when an overflow siphon is lost is to ensure that the return pump section of the sump will run dry before the tank overflows..

Calculate the amount of water it takes to overflow your main tank.. Ensure that the amount of water to the point where the pump starts sucking air and stops pumping is less than the overflow amount..

Plain and simple and absolutely reliable.. Requires no extra equipment/switches to fail,etc...



Quite easy to adjust this after too by putting something (like a rock for an example) to limit the amount of water in the return section while not effecting the water level..
 
The best way to ensure you don't overflow the main tank when an overflow siphon is lost is to ensure that the return pump section of the sump will run dry before the tank overflows..

Calculate the amount of water it takes to overflow your main tank.. Ensure that the amount of water to the point where the pump starts sucking air and stops pumping is less than the overflow amount..

Plain and simple and absolutely reliable.. Requires no extra equipment/switches to fail,etc...



Quite easy to adjust this after too by putting something (like a rock for an example) to limit the amount of water in the return section while not effecting the water level..

This is actually brilliant.
 
The best way to ensure you don't overflow the main tank when an overflow siphon is lost is to ensure that the return pump section of the sump will run dry before the tank overflows..

Calculate the amount of water it takes to overflow your main tank.. Ensure that the amount of water to the point where the pump starts sucking air and stops pumping is less than the overflow amount..

Plain and simple and absolutely reliable.. Requires no extra equipment/switches to fail,etc...



Quite easy to adjust this after too by putting something (like a rock for an example) to limit the amount of water in the return section while not effecting the water level..


^^^This^^^

Pumps/switches/floats etc fail. Usually just after you've left for the week. Gravity has never failed me even if I do wish it'd lighten up on me a bit:spin1:

This is actually brilliant.

:rolleyes:Careful - you'll make his head big:rolleyes:

:lmao:
 
The best way to ensure you don't overflow the main tank when an overflow siphon is lost is to ensure that the return pump section of the sump will run dry before the tank overflows..

Calculate the amount of water it takes to overflow your main tank.. Ensure that the amount of water to the point where the pump starts sucking air and stops pumping is less than the overflow amount..

Plain and simple and absolutely reliable.. Requires no extra equipment/switches to fail,etc...



Quite easy to adjust this after too by putting something (like a rock for an example) to limit the amount of water in the return section while not effecting the water level..



Thank you. This is the method I'll go with - plus it saves me ~$200 on the switches.
Should I unplug the return pump in a power outage so that it does not continue to run dry if siphon is lost?


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Thank you. This is the method I'll go with - plus it saves me ~$200 on the switches.
Should I unplug the return pump in a power outage so that it does not continue to run dry if siphon is lost?


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The way I've always done it is attaching something like the Tom Aqualifter pump to the overflow tubes. It runs continuously, but it removes the air from the tube if there is a power outage and siphon is lost once the power comes back on (it sucks the air out and restores siphon)
 
The way I've always done it is attaching something like the Tom Aqualifter pump to the overflow tubes. It runs continuously, but it removes the air from the tube if there is a power outage and siphon is lost once the power comes back on (it sucks the air out and restores siphon)



Does the overflow need to have any special attachments / parts to use these?


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So looking at it more, I used a CPR overflow that had a nipple for the aqualifter. Here's an example of it.
NEW-CPR-CS150DX-Overflow-with-AquaLifter-Pump-1500-320697588023.html
 
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