Ask your chiller related issues here

if you had a restriction . something would have had to get in the system or break apart in the system like mechanical failure or a dryer coming apart. generally these small systems do not have dryers but a bullet dryer . basically a piece of copper tubing with a screen in it to protect the cap tube from stopping up. if you were restricted you would most likely have a suction pressure around 0 to being pulled into vacuum.
 
Need some help here with an Artica Nano Chiller that I bought used. Thanks for this thread and you're willingness to help!

I connected the chiller last night and here's what happened. The power and cool light turned on. Soon I started to hear a slight buzzing sound and the chiller started to heat up. Smelled burned. I turned it off.

I called JBJ and the nice rep told me I had two issues. The first was that I had placed it inside the cabinet- a big no no. The second was that I probably had a blown fan. If that's the case, I could replace the fan myself and they would sell me the piece.

I now have the cover off the chiller and it seems OK to me- no obvious leaks. The rep told me that being out of refrigerant would be highly unlikely. However, when I plug it in, only the red power light comes on. The fan is not moving at all.

Any thoughts on what I'm doing? Any way to test the fan? Should it go on when I turn the power on?

Appreciate any thoughts. I have a call into JBJ also.

UPDATE: I guessed that the chiller needed water flowing through it for it to work (sensor, perhaps?) so I hooked it up to a bucket with hot water. It took a few minutes for the cool light to turn on but it did. The fan is working and the compressor seems cool to the tough and has a slight vibration to it. Initially, no burnt smell.

I'm going to take the temp of the water now and see after 15 mins to see if it is cooling. If it is, maybe my issue was not giving it enough clearance inside the cabinet?

Thanks in advance,

Art
 
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Well, I checked the temp and it's dropped significantly. The chiller seems to be working fine.

Chalking this up to my bone headedness and sticking it inside the cabinet. I guess they really mean it when they say the chiller requires a well ventilated area.

Going to set it up next to the tank stand.
 
I am putting together a new setup and plan on putting the chiller in the return line after a tee with valves to control the main vs. chiller line flow. Both lines recombine before returning to the MT.

Any issues with this approach to plumbing it in?
 
I am putting together a new setup and plan on putting the chiller in the return line after a tee with valves to control the main vs. chiller line flow. Both lines recombine before returning to the MT.

Any issues with this approach to plumbing it in?

should be fine
 
Well, I checked the temp and it's dropped significantly. The chiller seems to be working fine.

Chalking this up to my bone headedness and sticking it inside the cabinet. I guess they really mean it when they say the chiller requires a well ventilated area.

Going to set it up next to the tank stand.

yeah keeping the chiller under the cabinet is a no no unless there is some type of ventilation to move cool air in and hot air out
 
Here's my issue. Artica 1/5 hp Chiller bought used. Turns on, cool light turns on. As soon as the condenser (assumption) turns on and begings to run it turns off. Turned it on again, and the same thing happened but this time it blew the fuse !! What's the deal. Thanks for any answers/help provided.
 
JBJ Arctica 1/2HP

JBJ Arctica 1/2HP

I bought an established 175 gallons Bowfront aquarium with a chiller included is a JBJ Arctica 1/2HP titanium 115 volt. We just disconnected all the tubings went home opened it and clean inside with an air pressure machine I have and connected again. I performed a 75% water change and the water temperature drop to 71 yesterday morning. This morning the temperature is only 75. Why is taking so long to reach 79.
 
Hi ihavtats, thanks for all your info.

I have a hailea chiller here and just concerned about the possibility / common occurances of chillers becoming blocked - as in - no water in and no water out. Obviously if something large gets caught in the line it will be blocked but i mean from calcium build up etc?

Thanks
 
Hi Jim
My chiller is a 1/2 HP, no brand name bought it on ebay was repair once and the evaporator was replaced because the repair guy found out it was made out of copper so it was replace with titanium one. the chiller worked even better. The chiller now works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. What I do is turn off for a few minutes and back on again and starts to cool the system. I notice thing from its normal operation. 1- It blows cool air from the fan. 2- The chiller is connected to my apex and I have notice that the amps are lower than when normal operation ( 4.5 normal and 3.5 or lower when not cooling)

raffy026
from Puerto Rico
 
Good Morning.

I need a recomendation upon experience from you guys... What you think is more effective in cycling and cooling the tank about using only a main return pump to feed the return and also feed the Chiller or it is better to use a separate pump for the Chiller???

Remember i am asking what is better in terms of cooling the tank faster....

Thanks in advance...
 
Hi Jim
My chiller is a 1/2 HP, no brand name bought it on ebay was repair once and the evaporator was replaced because the repair guy found out it was made out of copper so it was replace with titanium one. the chiller worked even better. The chiller now works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. What I do is turn off for a few minutes and back on again and starts to cool the system. I notice thing from its normal operation. 1- It blows cool air from the fan. 2- The chiller is connected to my apex and I have notice that the amps are lower than when normal operation ( 4.5 normal and 3.5 or lower when not cooling)

raffy026
from Puerto Rico

could be a bad overload protector causing the comressor to shut down or a weak capasitor
 
Hi ihavtats, thanks for all your info.

I have a hailea chiller here and just concerned about the possibility / common occurances of chillers becoming blocked - as in - no water in and no water out. Obviously if something large gets caught in the line it will be blocked but i mean from calcium build up etc?

Thanks

snail shell or macro algea
can stop the up fast
 
Maybe you can help. I bought a 1/10th JBJ chiller almost two years ago and it failed within 7 months bad temp probe. They warrantied back in April 2012 and sent it back with a new probe and controller. Before the repair with the set point at 78 the unit would kick on at 79 and cool down and shut off at 77 but this repaired unit shuts off at 78 a one degree swing? They told me to mail it back and sent me back a new unit. Well with this new unit I traded it back where I originally bought it from for credit toward a new larger "Redisigned Model" a 1/5th but same thing again set point at 78 kicks on at 79 shuts off at 78 not 77! They had me take it back where I bought it and swap for another new unit which did the same thing too. At this point I gave up and just let it cool down 1 degrees. Why would you think they are letting these units go with this problem or am I doing something wrong? I also have a jbj 1/3 HP unit (6 Years old) which works properly on the same closed loop system it cools down by two degrees.
 
Can somebody confirm me if a compressor has a maximum life spam of work at peak performance or if it looses % of performance passing the years of use ????? I ask this because i performed all the tests and cleaned everything and it works OK but cycles the 2 degrees in 6 hours on my 150 gallon tank. Also a Techinician checked it and found everything OK.

By the way i am talking of a Artica Chiller 1/4.
 
over time calcium and crustations , sponges exct grow inside the exchanger and you will performance the only thing you can do is disconect ti and run a strong vinager water mix thru it with a circulation pump the break it down. the compressor should not loose much as in performance its basicly just a air compressor, there is a piston and ring but stay well lubricated during operation
 
Jyetman the reason being is to protect the compressor , and keep it from short cycling there has to be a min of 2 degree swing if the compressor short cycles it will burn up the compressor
 
Would anyone happen to know the low side operation pressure for a 1/3hp Prime Current chiller??? hmm pleaase.....
 
Typically on 134a low is 35-40 and high 150-200 but that depends on what type of system you have; low or high pressure. It also depends on condenser air temp and evaporator temp. It is better to charge by super heat rather than pressure. Much more accurate.
 
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