Ask your chiller related issues here

Ihavetats. I have always wondered ...

Say a system needs approx a 1/2HP chiller to properly cool ... Would a 1/3HP, with a 1/5HP as a secondary backup/failsafe, have roughly the same efficiency in cooling as a single 1/2 ?

Logically, the 1/3 and 1/5 working together would have ~ the same BTUs as a single 1/2 or does it not work like that in the refrigeration game
 
you would only have the same btu's as long as both are running , if it works for you then so be it . what i would do run the 1/3 hp chiller and see if that can handle the load
if not hook up the other chiller
but so you know the total amps that both chillers are drawing will more likely draw more that a 1/2 hp chiller would so you power usage will almost double that of what ou would running a single 1/2 hp vs 2 chillers
 
the number one issue i have found with chillers is they are being put inside the tank stand or cabinet and the ambient air temp gets high and reduces the effectivness of the chiller imo
 
I have a Ecoplus 1hp that just starting running weird. The compressor will run for a min or so then shuts off for a min or so but the fan keeps running. It blows hot air while the compressor is on then room temp while off. It will chill the water slowly but goes through this cycle for a couple hours to bring the temp down 2degs. I have the chiller in my basement which stays around 68deg most of the year. The system is just a little over a year old.
 
I have a custom sealife 3/4 hp chiller. I live in South Florida and moved this chiller outside to try and save my garage from heating up. Well I have been battling the chiller keeping my tank cool (375 total water volume). So today my tank water climbed to 85. I went outside and heard the compressor running and saw the fan running. There is a skinny cooper could that imwasmtold should not be could but when I touched it it was.
Not sure what to check. Please help.
 
Hey ihavtats, so glad I found this thread. I have a issue with a 1/4 horse JBJ chiller I bought used. It is way over powered as it is on a 40b tank, but holding the temp down in the 67 degree range. I figured overpowered on a smaller tank should make for easy work.

Here is my issue. About a month ago I noticed it wasn't tuning on right like it should. Kinda doing a popping sound. Going through and doing a few tests I realized the pump pushing water through had clogged and quit working, for how long I don't know. I fixed this issue only to have the chiller start blowing fuses weekly. I contacted JBJ and after talking it over with them decided the overload protector was the culprit and ordered that part. It came yesterday and I replaced it. That however did not fix the problem. I have done the static test and the condenser does not seem to be turning on at all.

Here is a video of the chiller with the panel off. The area with the spark is the new overload protector as is the part right behind it. You can clearly hear the fan running and then the condenser trying to kick on. Also at the end there is a small final clicking sound.

Am I just out of luck here or can it be saved?

http://s496.photobucket.com/albums/rr321/dougcobb/?action=view&current=VID_20120907_204016.mp4

Thanks!
 
JBJ 1/3 Chiller

JBJ 1/3 Chiller

So i just purchased a JBJ 1/3 chiller i need advise on the pump i should use and the tubing please let me know what i should do i have a 90g Uniaquarium and i would like to add an either in water or out of water pump im trying to get the best results out of it as possible
thank you
 
Would anyone be able to assist me with hooking up a Johnson A419 to my JBJ mini arctica? I have already purchased the controller and plasti-dip.

Tks!
 
power light on but chiller wont come on put new fuse

power light on but chiller wont come on put new fuse

Hello
I have a c-0500 pacific import o think its 4 years old has been working great
But now o had a power surge and I thought the fuse blew so I changed it unit light is on but the lef won't turn on
Or the compressor any thoughts on how to fix
 
What do you guys think of a Artica Chiller 1/4 cooling down 2 degrees in 4 hours for a 125 gallon tank with 30 gallon sump and 110 watts in pumps in the sump ???? This measure is without lights and the goal is 78 degrees.

To me it is to much time but i have to recognize that my house is hot around 85 degrees in PR.

What other people are getting with yours????

Thanks in advance...
 
Hey ihavtats, so glad I found this thread. I have a issue with a 1/4 horse JBJ chiller I bought used. It is way over powered as it is on a 40b tank, but holding the temp down in the 67 degree range. I figured overpowered on a smaller tank should make for easy work.

Here is my issue. About a month ago I noticed it wasn't tuning on right like it should. Kinda doing a popping sound. Going through and doing a few tests I realized the pump pushing water through had clogged and quit working, for how long I don't know. I fixed this issue only to have the chiller start blowing fuses weekly. I contacted JBJ and after talking it over with them decided the overload protector was the culprit and ordered that part. It came yesterday and I replaced it. That however did not fix the problem. I have done the static test and the condenser does not seem to be turning on at all.

Here is a video of the chiller with the panel off. The area with the spark is the new overload protector as is the part right behind it. You can clearly hear the fan running and then the condenser trying to kick on. Also at the end there is a small final clicking sound.

Am I just out of luck here or can it be saved?

http://s496.photobucket.com/albums/rr321/dougcobb/?action=view&current=VID_20120907_204016.mp4

Thanks!

the compressor is either locked up or the capacitor shot, id try to replace the capacitor then see if it still acts the same if it does then its the compressor , you might as well buy a new unit
 
So i just purchased a JBJ 1/3 chiller i need advise on the pump i should use and the tubing please let me know what i should do i have a 90g Uniaquarium and i would like to add an either in water or out of water pump im trying to get the best results out of it as possible
thank you

you need a pump that will put out the flow recommended by the manufacture to get the best results
 
Hello
I have a c-0500 pacific import o think its 4 years old has been working great
But now o had a power surge and I thought the fuse blew so I changed it unit light is on but the lef won't turn on
Or the compressor any thoughts on how to fix

the surge may have taken out the controller. exp if there is no led lighting up and you know for sure the fuse is good.
 
Custom SeaLife 1/3 HP unit.
Compressor Copeland AR37CE1 (in fact, like most chillers of the era, this is an off hte shelf copeland condensor unit with a titanium evaporator added).
Refrigerant: R134A
System design pressure is maybe 146/440 or something close and 11 ounces or 134a factory charge (if I remember the condensor nameplate specs)

No High side port!
Low side port is R12 schrader type (Acme)
Cap tube

Compressor and high side copper too hot to touch. Evaporator cool, but not cool enough. Compressor appear to cycle in and out via thermal protection. System does (slowly) pull tank down but is clearly not running as it should.

Placed gauge on low side schrader port. Static system pressure is around 100, operating low side pressure is below 15 PSI.

Not thinking (forgot it was a medium temp unit), I added R134a to maybe 25-30 PSI before the bulb in my head went on that I was not helping the issue. Extra charge has since been mostly removed/recoverd. I don't have much experience with 134a, but all I can figure is that that cap tube must be partially blocked and this causing the compressor and pressure piping to overheat?

Have not measured current consumption or actual temperatures but know the compressor is not going to happily operate under these conditions for too much longer.

Thoughts?
 
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Did you clean the condenser coil and check for correct fan rotation and a clean blade? also what high side line are you checking for heat? It is normal for the discharge line on the compressor to be very hot, but on the liquid line before it is reduced down to the cap tube it should be warm and be able to hold in your hand comfortably. as for checking your charge on a cap tube system it is hard to be accurate just by going by pressures and temps. the best way exp on these small delicate systems is to remove all the charge on the system . pull a vacuum , if you have a micron gauge pull it to at least 500 microns if not to 30'' water column on your gauges. then add a weighed in charge to the system. remember the hose on your gauges hold so much refrigerant most hold about about 1 oz.that would guarantee a proper charge to the system . if you want to give a shot at guessing the charge aim for a 6 to 10 degree superheat taking your suction line pressure and converting it to temperature using this chart http://www.csgnetwork.com/r134apresstempconv.html
at 15 psi your temp is 14.94
say your actual suction line temp is 30 degrees
you would subtract 30 - 15 = 15 degree superheat it is ok to have a 2-3 degree +/- difference. r-134a should also all ways be charged as a liquid. since it is a blend it can separate if charged as a gas. also make sure you have a load on the chiller. having your tank water running thru the chiller will be sufficient .
 
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