ASM Skimmer Club!

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9068420#post9068420 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TekCat
magvi, I got your PM ;) I am getting some mesh from fellow reefer, he's got some leftovers. I am sure this had been asked and answered bazillion times. I have Sedra 5000 non recirc on ASM G3. Could you repost or point to the meshwheel instructions for this pump please.

Also, if anyone knows does leaving some or all pins on the original impeller makes sense?

i cut all the pins on the wheel impeller .


1. cut the pins (be careful on the finger) .

2. make more holes (you want to tie 4 zip ties you can see in the picture)

3. cut the mesh (3 layers)

4. add all the mesh together on the wheel impeller and put the zip ties you start to insert the zip ties to the close hole to the cneter of the wheel like that when you tight them the big part of the zip ties will be far from the center of the wheel impeller and will not touch the washer .

5. start to tight the zip ties again by circle

6. trim with scissor the mesh to the diameter of the wheel impeller (do it form the back like that you will not damage the wheel)

7. cut with small cutter the center of the meh where it's the washer sit but don't cut a lot small piece and move the mesh from the center (if you make big hole you lose more air and youwant to get maxair fromthe wheel)

8. put back the wheel impeller in the pump and turn it manual wit the finger verify the mesh not touch strong the pump body and the shaft free also check the washer sit good on the center of the wheel .

9.close the cover of the pump and turn it out the body of the skimmer first test (put the elbow on like that the water will not splash)

if you see the pump spin it's good sign and youconnect it to the skimmer body .

some time ppl have problem to spin the impeller the reason it's because : the mesh to strong at the first time and after 3-5 days it's will start regular without problem . also the magnet on the impeller can be weak and the first start hard. or the mesh touch the pump top or body and can't spin.


now when it's run take out the air control valve and leave the air pipe free .

reduce the water level a lot not like you do with the regular wheel impeller (just for the first when you find the correct position after it's break in you will know where it's need to be)

give the skimmer 2-3 hour to break in and after youwill see the bubble get more smaller you can know it's break in and start to match the water level to skim wet/dry

if you want to put after all the air valve you will get more tiny bubble but keep it full open because you increase the pump watt with this mod and if youwill close it (clock 1-2 ) the watt will increase 50% more and youdon't want it .

on the first picture you can see the mesh top and how the zip ties sit on it :

IMGP0744.jpg



on this picture you can see from the side the zip ties insert the mesh (not cross) and how it's look little puffy.

IMGP0747.jpg



last part :

when you finish the mod and get good result please post some picture , if you need more any help i will try to do my best .

if i forgot to mention something please forgive me.

good luck :lol:

michael
 
I am geting about 15 to 18 lpm on my sed 5000 with pin weel.
i moded my impeller and i was not imprest, so i got another impeller from costem.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9068578#post9068578 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by orangekush4
I am geting about 15 to 18 lpm on my sed 5000 with pin weel.
i moded my impeller and i was not imprest, so i got another impeller from costem.

i tell you honest i never saw sedra 5000 pull between 15-18 LPM

(maybe i am wrong but i think your flow meter not correct or you have monster pump)

there is no any pin wheel impeller (on standart pump) that can create foam like the mesh make , i don't know what mesh you try but on all my test and other member test everyone saw the foam improvement and how the water look realy milky .

if you prefer the regular impeller it's ok but IMO nothing can bit the result of the mesh .

when you make the mod you need to give the skimmer at least 4-5 days and then start to compare it , when you see the collection cup build up with detritus then make compare how this mod skim to the regular pin wheel.
 
thanks Michael!!!!! I think I can do that :) question: what control air valve are you talking about? In my skimmer there are no such thing, I think. The air tube connects directly to venturi fitting on the pump, without any valves.
TIA
 
I have a G6 with gate valve and drilled out the venturi, i am trying some 45's on the out let of the skimmer(inside body) i have tried them at a 90 degree angle now i am trying them pointed straight up to see if this helps and comments on the idea Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9068721#post9068721 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TekCat
thanks Michael!!!!! I think I can do that :) question: what control air valve are you talking about? In my skimmer there are no such thing, I think. The air tube connects directly to venturi fitting on the pump, without any valves.
TIA

the end of the air pipe (not the side that connect to the pump) if it's wide open or there is on it control valve to adjust the air level ?

if it's wide open then it's ok .


marcusbigdady :

i try all the option (90 , 45 , T , 2X90 , 2X45 ) straight up , down and angle. if i am not wrong you try to break the turbulence IMO it's not help to much and when you point the elbow down you increase the water level in the skimmer body .some ppl like it but i don't think it's help .
 
I will post some pics when i figuer out how.The meter is the same as all the meters peaple useing its a hydrofarm made by dwyer and it gos all the way up to 20 scfh.The meter is brand new.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9068420#post9068420 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TekCat
Could you repost or point to the meshwheel instructions for this pump please.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9055515#post9055515 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Konadog
There are a few, but this one should cover it:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=966407&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1005653
 
I'll try and post a pic..... means removing the blasted thing again!

For some reason, my enkamat seems quite thin. I wonder if I could get a 5th layer on the one that is underperforming. Anyone tried 5 on a Sedra 9000?????

BTW I have the 2-zip tie arrangement. I wasn't sure where to drill the additional holes -- again, I'm bad with shapes. In relation to the existing 4 holes, are they to go next to or nearer the outer edge of the circle? What exactly is the advantage of using 4 instead of 2 zip ties?

I have fishing line but can't get my hands around how to secure it. Seems to me the turbulence would make it hard to get it to hold securely.
 
need id for this part

need id for this part

I just got the G1X and I was wondering what this part is. It's attached to the venturi line that comes off the pump...
eaee25d5.jpg


on close up of the part you can see there are 2 lines available. can I use ozone on the other line??
eaee25d6.jpg
 
Never seen an ASM come with that before. Doesn't look like a silencer to me or, if it is, not sure how that one would work.
 
Can anyone point me to a location to purchase the right enkamat material? I've got a G-3 and would absolutely love to see the same performance as you guys are seeing.

Thanks and God bless,
Basset
 
mavgi,

If ppl are pointing the fitting down wouldn't that bust the air bubbles and not be a good thing? So far i have found that the 45's pointing to the side all in the same direction has done the best,But i will give the straight up a couple more days or a week then change up. I think i need to do the recir mod on 2 pumps and let the third one feed the skimmer.. WDYT...
 
Re: need id for this part

Re: need id for this part

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9072562#post9072562 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mache62
I just got the G1X and I was wondering what this part is. It's attached to the venturi line that comes off the pump...
eaee25d5.jpg


on close up of the part you can see there are 2 lines available. can I use ozone on the other line??
eaee25d6.jpg

That looks like the silencer that comes with the coral life super skimmers.

God bless,
Basset
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9048192#post9048192 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ostrow
So skimmer was great since my last post, nice thick foam. Water level below the neck in the cone.

Today come home from work and water is flying all over the place, blowing the lid off the collection cup. Water level in tank had not changed. No clue what is up but this is what the skimmer was like before the mod. Crap.

I had to turn the gate valve 2 FULL TURNS to get the water to dip to the bottom of the neck.

Back to skeptical, I guess.


This happened to me when the scrub brush material mod came apart.
I haven't had time to fix it so I just put the euroreef modded impeller back in and it is drawing 9-10L/M.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9072956#post9072956 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bassetbros
Can anyone point me to a location to purchase the right enkamat material? I've got a G-3 and would absolutely love to see the same performance as you guys are seeing.

Thanks and God bless,
Basset

here is the picture of it :

IMGP0712.jpg
 
Thanks so much Twisted Tiger and Mavgi!!

I’d also like to do the recirc. mod. It seems straightforward enough but I’m a little unclear about one thing. How high up the tube do I need to locate the feed line? Also, after entering the skimmer, should the feed water be directed down or any specific direction?

Thanks and God bless,
Basset
 
pics for mavgi!

pics for mavgi!

Here you go. I am getting a steady 14lpm from one Sedra 9000. The other was at 7 over and over. mfinn had similar problems IIRC. So I tried one more time. I now have 6 layers of enkamat on there and the smaller zip ties are on more loosely. Drilled the extra holes too. With wider zip ties and 4 or 5 layers I was at 7. With the 6th layer, it took about 10secs for the pump to kick on and the air flow meter shows around 11lpm. Hopefully the pump isn't being overly stressed. Seems ok now. No noise (except from the air tubing!)

Pics:
16612mod_1-med.jpg


16612mod_2-med.jpg



Not sure at all how anyone is getting 20lpm or whatever they are claiming.
 
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