ATB 'Small' Cone Pan/Plate Skimmer

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11047269#post11047269 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Maximus
Hey Matt, is there any reason why you didn't run the water level a bit higher? How's the family?

Hi Sang! Hows it goin? Everyone is great. Shelby is getting big. Let me know when you get your new tank set up. I send you some frags.

The skimmer has to be kept low. Just a small adjustment and it will get very watery skimmate. I like to get dark gunk personally.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11047290#post11047290 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gabe3d
Did you clean the top of the cone after you readjusted it? I've noticed that for my skimmer the top of the cone is barely dirty and if it does get dirty then it gets more or less cleaned by the bubbles. Is that your experience as well?
No I didn't. I didn't even think about that.
 
We are all good, thanks for asking. I'll definitely hit you up when my tank is ready. Good luck with your skimmer.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11047304#post11047304 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Al G Blenny
Hi Sang! Hows it goin? Everyone is great. Shelby is getting big. Let me know when you get your new tank set up. I send you some frags.

The skimmer has to be kept low. Just a small adjustment and it will get very watery skimmate. I like to get dark gunk personally.
 
Al G Blenny that's very impressive. Thanks for sharing the pictures. I think what amazes me the most though is the skimmer is replacing a Deltec AP851 (which is aso powered by an eheim correct?). Just looking at the pictures one might say well you just have a dirty tank but that certainly wasn't the case!
 
xinumaster,
you adjust the water level by twisting the standpipe, which turns the opening at the bottom of the pipe like a gate valve. Its very much like the system for a Bubbleking mini.

uhuru,
I have had the same result. My previous skimmer, if it made that much skimmate in a day, would make all light-tea colored stuff. Now, I have it adjusted to make the same (because I dont feel like having to empty it every day) volume, but its much darker. And the chunks! Thats what I cant get over...

Today I cleaned the cup again, and as I reached for the cup, I noticed an amphipod that was stuck in the foam, at the top of the head, in the neck!!! It was swimming around, trying to get down, but it couldnt!

On a related note, as more of a long-term report, well... I tried to get some sort of nitrate/phosphate reading in the tank by stopping the alchohol dosing and removing the phosguard (or rather, not replacing it like I normally do). And I took note of the 'yellow chart' on the side wall of the tank.

The 'yellow chart' is something I picked up from my cichlid keeking days. You get a sheet printed of various yellow tints, on a scale from light to dark, and number them. you then place this chart on the back of your tank, or in my case, on one of the sides so you cant see it from the front, and lengthwise for me provides more distance through the water, and I have starphire side panels, where the back is regular plate and so it has some green to it. Now, its a relative scale, since the distance through the glass will vary, and the shades of yellow will vary due to the printer/paper, etc. But it gives a user a good way of comparing relative water clarity values. When the water reaches a certain level of yellow, the lighter shades of yellow will not be visible, and then depending on what you figure out is a good point thats when you know you have to do your water changes (at least on a non-reef system).

On a reef, it allows me to keep track of my organic levels, or the 'yellow' in the water.

I would like to add this though. I have stopped alchohol dosing (which did clear my water up after less than a week of use), and my water did get a bit yellow there for a bit. But since the ATB, my water is clearer than ever. I even let my carbon go (it clogs up after a week or so, so its effectively shut down). The water on my 'yellow scale' is clearer than when I was vodka dosing.

Now, that may not be a comparable nitrate/phosphate reading (which would be relative to my tank only so its all relative really), but that does say something. This ATB 'Small' skimmer, no vodka, no ethanol = clearer than 30" tall 1200lph recirc.overflow fed skimmer, 6ml ethanol daily, and carbon changed every 2-3 weeks.

Thats something you can take to the bank.
 
Hahn, what size tank is this skimmer on again, and what is your bioload like? Just want to know for comparison. Also, what is the neck diameter on this skimmer? Thanks.
FB
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11049828#post11049828 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fishbulb2
Hahn, what size tank is this skimmer on again, and what is your bioload like? Just want to know for comparison. Also, what is the neck diameter on this skimmer? Thanks.
FB

His bioload was posted on the second page.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10994800#post10994800 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
Okay, let me give some details here. My 125g (48x30x21"h) has the following fish:
Royal Gramma (2")
6 x solar fair wrasse (2-3"ea)
1x Temmincki fairy wrasse (3")
Pyjama Cardinal (1.5")
2x yellow watchman goby (1")
1x Pacific Regal Blue Tang (2")
1x Striated Tang (2")
1x Yellow Tang (3")
1x Red Sea Purple Tang (2.5")
1x Lamarck's Angelfish (2.5", but fat, very fat... like a guppy)

I feed 2x a day. 1x with Spectrum dry pellets in the morning, then 1x Rod's Reef Frozen Food at night.

...
 
I have about 50 corals in that tank, from frags to 8" diameter SPS colonies... but IME, the corals help filter just as much as they add... not like fish which generate pure crap. For me, I can stock a tank to the lip with corals, and the skimmate production isnt all that high. But once I reach a certain limit with the fish load... then things jump like mad.

I feed once in the morning with spectrum pellet, and once at night with something frozen like Rod's Reef... sometimes cyclopeez or something else, and I go through only a 1/4 sheet of nori with the tangs a week at best.

As far as inverts, I do have 4 crocea clams in there, a BTA anemone, and 40-50 astrae, trochus, and super tongan snails. But I would have to say most of the load is coming from the fish which I mentioned earlier. I do have a tuxedo urchin in the fuge aws well (keeps the bad algae away but doesnt eat chaeto).

I also have a 20g fuge in the sump with a 5" sand bed, chaeto, and 'tang heaven' macro algae. So that helps. I usually change the 6 oz. of carbon every other week, as well as the 6oz. of phosguard/ban. The return pump is an eheim 1250 which gives me 200-250gph of flow through my sump.
 
Wow, that's a lot of livestock and feeding. How were your parameters prior to the installation of the new skimmer? Sounds like you might have had some problems since your skimmer was not picking up the slack.
 
Well, I was dosing 6ml everclear every day (95% ethanol), and with the help of carbon and phosguard, the skimmer SHOULD have been holding down the fort... recirc, overflow fed, 1200lph...

And it was, dont get me wrong. Other companies rate a skimmer like that for 250gallons with only 900lph of air... mine is a 125g.

The tank is only 6 months old though too... so there may have been some of those 'long term' cycles that the tank was going through since I do have about a 1-2" deep sandbed that is new, even though the LR (about 90lbs?) is all from previous systems.

With what I was doing, my nitrates and phosphates were all 0, but my water was slightly yellower. Thats why I appologized to everyone, since my test of this skimmer wouldnt involve any actual test readings to compare because even with stopping my alchohol dosing and not changing the carbon, the readings were still 0.

The yellow in the water is the only factor I could compare in the end. What does it mean? Well, my previous skimmer and filtration was able to remove the waste, or rather deal with it in its own way. But the ATB is able to remove more of the raw waste before the LR has to deal with it. This means the carbon has less 'tint' to remove, and the phosguard has less to remove as well. The 'raw waste' was being dealt with before by a combination of all those methods together... the skimmer removed what it could, but left some organics to be dealt with by the live rock... being converted in the nitrogen cycle to nitrate, which means more yellow as a byproduct of this process (this is also where phosphates get generated). Then the carbon had to remove this, and the phosguard had to remove the phosphate. Then, what couldnt be processed 100% by the LR was scooped up by the bacteria that I induced by dosing ethanol, and then these bacteria were harvested by the skimmer (ethanol dosing makes the skimmer more able to harvest organics that it wouldnt be able to otherwise, and let me tell you, it worked very well... my skimmate output would double, and become darker when dosing everclear) in the end, the readings were still 0, but I had to use additional things like carbon, phosguard, refugium, and sometimes ethanol to deal with it.

Less yellow to me would seem that the ATB skimmer is able to remove more organics from the water BEFORE the other systems have to deal with them. The LR has less raw waste to convert to nitrate, therefore making less phosphates, and less yellow. So while I couldnt figure out a way to 'boost' these waste levels for the 'before' comparison (although I did lose an 'Atlantis Ultimate Deepwater Acro', so there must have been some sort of stress added) by not dosing ethanol, or changing my carbon, I was able observe clearer water with just the ATB skimmer, and no more ethanol/carbon.

It may not be a test from a Salifert test kit, but its still some hard data to compare.
 
Let's try the videos again. This isn't my skimmer, I am considering the Nano Size and this is a Small Size. It's being tested at a dealer's who I maybe buying my Nano Size from. The bubbles are like white cream floating to the top of the skimmer. So, hopefully this helps all those that wanted to see an actual video of the bubbles and foaming in motion.


 
Man if i had the cash!

I have a 60 cube and 55G sump and use a DAS EX1 which does an incredible job. but this skimmer looks off the hook:)
 
Here, I thought I would post some pics...

I forgot to clean out my cup, and the next day I got this...
44ATB.jpg

Just thought I would do this to show that any skimmer can do this.
43ATB.jpg

41ATB.jpg

40ATB.jpg

45ATBwithQO3000.jpg

Yes, in that last pic... Im testing out the Quiet One 3000. It shows some potential on this skimmer. The big question is... 'would you give up on the eheim name for it though?'

I cant make my mind up myself. The QO, being a lower flow pump, is more sensitive to back-pressure. It also doesnt throw as much water as the eheim though, so I ended up raising the sump level to 10" and running the skimmer in that water depth. The air can get up to 1000+ lph this way, and no microbubbles in the output. Noise-wise, I do have a hum, but thats mostly from the pump being mounted w/o a soft tube to the main skimmer. I think the hum is from a vibration in the standpipe.... not the pump itself (Ive plumbed this pump before and had it end up dead silent... just ask nait002).
 
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