I got the same light 48" but went with this combo and it's great. 2 ATI Blue+, 2 Giesmann Aquablue Azure, 1 Giesmann Tropic, 1 Giesmann Actinic Bkue, 1 ATI Actinic and 1 ATI Purple. Lighingt is white with hints of blue/green when all T5s on. I tried Coral+ and it's too red for my taste. Just my 2 cents. It's really a great lamp.
ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club
- Thread starter rodneyri
- Start date
I got the same light 48" but went with this combo and it's great. 2 ATI Blue+, 2 Giesmann Aquablue Azure, 1 Giesmann Tropic, 1 Giesmann Actinic Bkue, 1 ATI Actinic and 1 ATI Purple. Lighingt is white with hints of blue/green when all T5s on. I tried Coral+ and it's too red for my taste. Just my 2 cents. It's really a great lamp.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
1. There are only a max of 10 set points. I wish there was more. Email ATI and ask them to put in more. If many people ask, they will likely add.
2. When you go into preview mode, there are two previews: one to preview the light cycle in quicktime, and the other is to preview the LED channel settings; if the latter make sure you click on a set point.
3. Not sure with this. Works fine for me.
4. You can create one led module, then use the led spot COPY command to copy the same for the other two.
5. Firmware version is witten on the window frame, just above setting tab. I still have version 1.2.0.2 as it works fine for me.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
TOTM Scotty runs his ATI tubes at least 14 months! Has great colours on his tank. I run my daylight tubes around this time as well as they run for 5-6 hours per day, whilst I replace the Blue tubes earlier as I typically run then around 8 hours a day.
If you utilise the LED clusters a lot, then you can run the T5's for shorter time per day and so use the tubes longer.
The ATI tubes are quality tubes IMO and so are quite good in terms of lifespan.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
Thats a good combo. I run at the moment:
fromt:
ATI Actinic
ATI AquablueSpecial (12K daylight tube)
ATI Actinic
ATI Blue+
ATI Coral+
ATI Actinic
ATI AquablueSpecial (12K daylight tube)
ATI Blue+
So, 3/8 are white tubes, 3/8 are Actinic tubes and 2/8 Blue tube. I am getting very good colours.
People say the ATI AquablueSpecial (12K daylight tube) causes colours to be washed out; however I feel thats because their colours are not intense enough to begin with; if given at least 2 months with this tube, the colours will get better. Works for me.
Most people will use the Coral+ in place of the ABS. I like the ABS tube as it adds a lot of brightness to the tank due to the increas green and yellow spectrum.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
Haha, actually, I my tank is 95% Acropora.
The gold standard for SPS tanks is Radium 20K. Almost everyone adds like 200-300 watts of VHO to that. The Radium 20K+VHO Actinics is the ultimate combo for SPS corals and what most would consider a full range of spectral coverage. I cant recall for sure, but I think it was either an article by Dana Riddle or Steve Tyree who wrote that if someone was using 20K Radiums, the appropriate spectrum to add to complete lighting would be in the Actinic range.
This is exactly what I am doing.
Consider the following spectrums:
ATI Blue+
ATI ABS:
ATI Coral+
As you can see, they ALL cover the blue-green part of the spectrum pretty well. So in 5/8 of my tubes, the blue-green spectrum is covered VERY well.
Consider also that we have Royal Blue and Blue LED, as well as a similar spike and spectral coverage in the typical White LED's.
Its covered fully well all round. So what is lacking in the T5 and LED lineup? IMO it is the Actinic range. The range that is complimented in most halide combos using VHO.
So I am therefore offering my corals a full range of spectrum as best as possible.
About 6-7inches.
This is the result after 2 months of dipping for AEFW/small kalk disaster/and a tank that is only 4 months old.
Photo shows bluey purple colour, but it is an intense and striking metallic purple...love the colour coming out on this one.
Echinata?
This one has blue tips, sky blue and also red/purple corallite rims...but cannot capture the colours as it is right up near the surface.
Speciosia I think.
SSC. This one was butchered by the AEFW's. Lost the red completely, only recently turned green. Its not the usual Aussie SSC but a variant which I like better. I lost my Aussie SSC in my buddys tank.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
This hot pink Millepora was absolutely ravaged by the bastard AEFW's. Had a colony...this frag was made up from 3 branches I cut off and kept. It has grown and joined together. Previously it didnt have green polyps...the pink is starting to appear on the corallite edges.
Frag given to me by my buddy. Looks lovely when grown. Starting to get colour.
Bought because it had blue tips in the LFS tank and I though it was a Blue Millepora...well it bloody isnt. It has started to get red/purple branches, with a green base and blue tips! Notice the bright blue growth ring too.
Other side. It is sitting directly below an ATI AquaBlueSpecial and pulling some awesome colours. I speak highly of this tube, but most people bash this tube and say it washes out colours. Not for me. Given time, this tube by ATI is pretty cool.
And finally an FTS.
Frag given to me by my buddy. Looks lovely when grown. Starting to get colour.
Bought because it had blue tips in the LFS tank and I though it was a Blue Millepora...well it bloody isnt. It has started to get red/purple branches, with a green base and blue tips! Notice the bright blue growth ring too.
Other side. It is sitting directly below an ATI AquaBlueSpecial and pulling some awesome colours. I speak highly of this tube, but most people bash this tube and say it washes out colours. Not for me. Given time, this tube by ATI is pretty cool.
And finally an FTS.
Holy man.. you tank is amazing . I love your open scape!!!!
I totally agre with you theory , but in my case i have wide tank: 72x36x24 and it would be hard for me to mimic this combo that you using unless you can recomend otherwise..
i am tempting to try AB bulb. here is my bulb combo right now amd i fell like i am burning some corals leading to luck of coloration
front:
KZ Blue bulb
KZ NG
KZ Blue
Giessman Lagoon blue
LED
KZ FP
ATI C+
KZ Blue
KZ NG
mike
I totally agre with you theory , but in my case i have wide tank: 72x36x24 and it would be hard for me to mimic this combo that you using unless you can recomend otherwise..
i am tempting to try AB bulb. here is my bulb combo right now amd i fell like i am burning some corals leading to luck of coloration
front:
KZ Blue bulb
KZ NG
KZ Blue
Giessman Lagoon blue
LED
KZ FP
ATI C+
KZ Blue
KZ NG
mike
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
So effectively, you are using:
3 x Blue tubes
4 x White tubes
1x Pink tube
If you wanted to utilise a couple of Actinic tubes I would use the following tubes (whilst keeping as many of your current tubes as possible):
Front:
KZ Blue
KZ NG
ATI Actinic
ATI C+
---LED--- = Set LED channels at MAX Intensity with the following RB=255, Blue=150, White=125-140 (adjust to your liking) and Red if you want to use Red=15
KZ Blue
Giessman Lagoon blue
ATI Actinic
KZ NG
I would run all 8 tubes together for 6-7 hours and use Royal Blue and atiny amount of blue and white for sun down sun up etc.
That will be an all round decent amount of light. Its not just the perceived brightness that you see in the tank...as long as one doesnt go crazy and use 7 blue tubes and 1 white tube in the middle for example, as long as you use a balanced combo, end of the day you will ONLY have 8 tubes in terms of coverage...so you are not really widening your light coverage...
Only a suggestion, FWIW your current tube combo is pretty good in any event.
Havent tried. And unlikely to try. Reason being is that ATI tubes are cheapest and widely available and proven. I do like KZ SuperBlue but they are priced a bit more.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
Haha see below...
This is the result after 2 months of dipping for AEFW/small kalk disaster/and a tank that is only 4 months old.
Photo shows bluey purple colour, but it is an intense and striking metallic purple...love the colour coming out on this one.
Echinata?
This one has blue tips, sky blue and also red/purple corallite rims...but cannot capture the colours as it is right up near the surface.
Speciosia I think.
SSC. This one was butchered by the AEFW's. Lost the red completely, only recently turned green. Its not the usual Aussie SSC but a variant which I like better. I lost my Aussie SSC in my buddys tank.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
And these below...
This hot pink Millepora was absolutely ravaged by the bastard AEFW's. Had a colony...this frag was made up from 3 branches I cut off and kept. It has grown and joined together. Previously it didnt have green polyps...the pink is starting to appear on the corallite edges.
Frag given to me by my buddy. Looks lovely when grown. Starting to get colour.
Bought because it had blue tips in the LFS tank and I though it was a Blue Millepora...well it bloody isnt. It has started to get red/purple branches, with a green base and blue tips! Notice the bright blue growth ring too.
Other side. It is sitting directly below an ATI AquaBlueSpecial and pulling some awesome colours. I speak highly of this tube, but most people bash this tube and say it washes out colours. Not for me. Given time, this tube by ATI is pretty cool.
And finally an FTS.
Even with the two ATI ABS and one Coral+ I am getting good results.
Since you have lot of chalices and like seeng them pop, I would recommend the following combo for you:
4xActinic
2xBlue+
2xPurple+
Good enough for the acros and still nice enough for the chalices.
I was all excited that my new light came in only to find that i could not change the number of clusters. I have the new 7 node led's on a 3' fixture so there are 2 clusters. Can't load my program because the controller thinks it has 4. The old secret code doesn't work and the "new one" ( hold 4 outer the upper lower middle, resets the controller but I don't see anywhere to indicate that I have 2 clusters. Can anyone help? I feel dressed up with no where to go! ATI really needs to upgrade their instructions.
How do I do the copy?
Email sent to ATI to get more set points added. Also it seems like each time I updated the settings and upload new program I have to reboot lamp to get it to accept the program. Why is that?
Got my 48" 4 Tube today. Hung and running in only about an hour. Love this light so far, the look is beautiful.
The profile that came on the fixture says it has 4 LED modules though. When I try to remove one and upload to the controller it says it needs 4. Seems to be working ok but should I do the reset to fix this?
The profile that came on the fixture says it has 4 LED modules though. When I try to remove one and upload to the controller it says it needs 4. Seems to be working ok but should I do the reset to fix this?
Right click the LED Module in the box. That should give you the copy option.
saline solution
New member
There is a you tube video ati made for instructions on resetting cluster number. Code on the video is the old one though, may need the new code I posted somewhere in the 80'S Pages
(the single row style)Similar threads
