Austin goes Rimless - Dudester's 203g mixed reef
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Dudester
Premium Member
Jonathan, I'll keep an eye on the duncan during the next few feedings and if it doesn't capture anything, I'll throw it a bone.
Great idea, Marc, to feed the coral when it's hungry. So practical, so obvious, so intuitive, so reasonable, why didn't I think of that? Oh yeah, because I'm so complicated.
Great idea, Marc, to feed the coral when it's hungry. So practical, so obvious, so intuitive, so reasonable, why didn't I think of that? Oh yeah, because I'm so complicated.
chris wright
In Memoriam
I'm with Jonathon on the feeding. Mine is helathy, and well feed :lol: I feed mine once a week and its growing like mad.
Tanks looking real good, and good luck with the gorgonian.
Cheers
Chris
Tanks looking real good, and good luck with the gorgonian.
Cheers
Chris
Dudester
Premium Member
chris wright - I'll be sure that the duncan is fed. I bought the gorgonian from Reeftopia along with the cleanup crew a few weeks ago. Initially it was getting pounded with flow from the 4-way, but since I redirected the returns it's settled down a bit. The polyps aren't extended as much as they used to be, and there's a thin algae film covering most of the branches but no tissue loss. I'm not sure if this is a photosynthetic gorgonian or not (probably not), but I figured the high bacterial populations and carbon source addition in my ZEOvit system would provide enough food to sustain it. I guess the jury is still out on whether or not it will make it, and I'm told that once algae grows on it, the prognosis is poor. I'm hoping that a tang might eat the algae off of it to clean it up a bit, and hopefully it will survive until then.
Dudester
Premium Member
OK everyone, I need some help with salinity. Here's the beef. I've been keeping my tank at a specific gravity of 1.026, measured with a refractometer. When I got the Aquatronica controller I used the density (salinity) probe and calibrated it with a 1.023 solution. The probe was then entered into the sump where it read nearly 1.029, while my refractometer read 1.026. I have always trusted refractometers more than probes, and felt that the probe was reading falsely high. Afterall, the refractometer tested RO/DI water at 1.00. John (thedude) suggested I test the refractometer with the calibration fluid, and when I did it recorded 1.020. That means the refractometer had been testing falsely low by nearly 0.003, which meant my reef was actually at 1.029 and the AQ probe was correct :eek2: . Could a poorly calibrated refractometer be the cause of some of the former new fish deaths in my old tank, and possibly the demise of (now) 2 emerald crabs in the current tank? At any rate, I removed 5 gal of water from the tank and replaced it with RO/DI. Both the controller and refractometer now read 1.027. My plan was to perform the same procedure tomorrow to get the S.G. down to 1.026. In the meantime I re-tested the refractometer with RO/DI water and it reads 1.003 instead of 1.000. Now I'm really confused and don't know what to believe. I think I need someone else with a refractometer to come over and test my water. I would feel better if others out there test their refractometers with RO/DI and tell me what you come up with. If it's OK to have 1.003 (since this is a lower range and possibly not as important) then I'd also feel better and consider the calibration good. Any input would be appreciated!
melev
Well-known member
There is an article about refractometers written by RHF, and he explains how to make your own calibration solution with table salt and a two liter bottle. It is always better to test your refractometer against 35ppt vs RO/DI 0ppt.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-12/rhf/index.php
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-12/rhf/index.php
jnarowe
New member
I have never had good luck with the salinity probes and in fact have more than one because of this. They get plated very easily, so I tend to trust my refractometer more.
One other way to calibrate your refractometer is with a good quality hydrometer. The glass kind like a LaMotte.
One other way to calibrate your refractometer is with a good quality hydrometer. The glass kind like a LaMotte.
Dudester
Premium Member
Thanks Marc, that is a great article. Unfortunately I can't read the whole thing right now, but I'll read it soon and see if there's a solution in there somewhere.
jnarowe - A hydrometer? Uh, isn't that a little backward? Thanks for the suggestion, but I think I'd rather go with another refractometer.
Gabriel - Dude, thanks! I'll give you a call tomorrow and maybe we can set some time up when you can come over. We can also test your refractometer with my 1.023 calibration fluid. Thanks so much for offering! Wish I had some frags I could give you in exchange ....... all in due time
.
jnarowe - A hydrometer? Uh, isn't that a little backward? Thanks for the suggestion, but I think I'd rather go with another refractometer.
Gabriel - Dude, thanks! I'll give you a call tomorrow and maybe we can set some time up when you can come over. We can also test your refractometer with my 1.023 calibration fluid. Thanks so much for offering! Wish I had some frags I could give you in exchange ....... all in due time
.
jnarowe
New member
no, absolutely not backward. A REAL hydrometer is extremely accurate. Not those stupid hobby ones, but a lab instrument. That's why I mentioned LaMotte. I had a long discussion with Steve Weast about refractometers, probes, and the accuracy thereof.
He is the one that convinced me to get a high quality hydrometer and testing vessel. It works very well. I used to use purified water, but Steve had a very strong argument for having an alternative way of confirming callibration.
He is the one that convinced me to get a high quality hydrometer and testing vessel. It works very well. I used to use purified water, but Steve had a very strong argument for having an alternative way of confirming callibration.
maxxII
Super Housemonkey!
Mike,
Just finished reading the entire thread, you're "shameless plug" for your thread worked. Thank you for the link.
Thoughts in no particular order:
Tank looks great!
Raise your magnesium levels to over 1500 and keep them there to get rid of bryopsis. I've been running at approx 1620-1650 for several weeks no with no ill effects to anything other than bryopsis. From what I understand, the elevated mg levels interfere with photosynthesis in simple algeas like bryopsis. I should note that I'm not using Zeo....I'm not familiar enough w/ Zeo to state whether or not this would be an issue. I was unaware that elevated dKH levels would be hazardous to corals while using Zeo...why is this?
I use Penn Plax B-11 silent airpumps for short term power outtages. The are battery powered, but plug into an outlet. When power is out, they kick on. When power is restored, they shut off., They will run up to 5 days on a pair of D cell batteries. For your size tank, I would suggest 2 at a minimum, 3 would be better. Sandbeds contain alot of life which rapidly deplete O2 levels during power outtages.
I'm at work and dont have the link available, but Rich Durso did a lengthy article called "Disaster Readiness" in a past issue of Advanced Aquarist online magazine. Very informative.
St Louis city had not had a power outtage longer than 4 hours in over 15 years......until last year. Parts of the city were w/o power for over two weeks. Seriously. You've spent alot of money on this system and alot of time getting it up and running. Think worst case scenario, and work from there...You're a doctor, you know you need a plan B, or C.....or Q.
What all are you wanting to keep in this tank fish wise?
Nick
Just finished reading the entire thread, you're "shameless plug" for your thread worked. Thank you for the link.
Thoughts in no particular order:
Tank looks great!
Raise your magnesium levels to over 1500 and keep them there to get rid of bryopsis. I've been running at approx 1620-1650 for several weeks no with no ill effects to anything other than bryopsis. From what I understand, the elevated mg levels interfere with photosynthesis in simple algeas like bryopsis. I should note that I'm not using Zeo....I'm not familiar enough w/ Zeo to state whether or not this would be an issue. I was unaware that elevated dKH levels would be hazardous to corals while using Zeo...why is this?
I use Penn Plax B-11 silent airpumps for short term power outtages. The are battery powered, but plug into an outlet. When power is out, they kick on. When power is restored, they shut off., They will run up to 5 days on a pair of D cell batteries. For your size tank, I would suggest 2 at a minimum, 3 would be better. Sandbeds contain alot of life which rapidly deplete O2 levels during power outtages.
I'm at work and dont have the link available, but Rich Durso did a lengthy article called "Disaster Readiness" in a past issue of Advanced Aquarist online magazine. Very informative.
St Louis city had not had a power outtage longer than 4 hours in over 15 years......until last year. Parts of the city were w/o power for over two weeks. Seriously. You've spent alot of money on this system and alot of time getting it up and running. Think worst case scenario, and work from there...You're a doctor, you know you need a plan B, or C.....or Q.
What all are you wanting to keep in this tank fish wise?
Nick
Dudester
Premium Member
Thanks for your comments Nick, much appreciated. Just to clarify, I don't have any bryopsis in my tank. There was a ton of it that meant the end of my former, 30g tank, but I was very careful not to transfer anything over that could potentially 'pollute' this system.
Here's an explanation of why elevated carbonate hardness is bad in ZEOvit systems. Zeolites (the rocks we use in the reactor) function by ion exchange. That is, they absorb a charged particle and release a similarly charged particle. Not all zeolites are the same, some have an affinity for certain ions while others prefer different ions. The ZEOlites used in the ZEOvit method have a particular affinity for ammonium ions, and in exchange they release sodium and potassium. The ammonium absorbed onto the ZEOlith rock is used as nutrition for bacteria that are kept in relative high concentraion.
When carbonate hardness (alkalinity) is increased above 8 dKH, the ZEOliths begin to function differently in that they begin to exchange ions other than ammonium. This results in a nutrient spike that can shock and harm corals that have adapted to a nutrient-poor environment, or perhaps other cation imbalance (like Ca++, K+, etc.) that can similarly be detrimental to the corals.
I have read Rich's article in the past and it contains outstanding advice. I have had the Penn Plax B-11 battery-powered pump on my "wish list" for a long time but I've been reluctant to pull the trigger since this would require a visible power cord (or 2). On the other hand, once the corals grow it may just be invisible and this is something I should move up on my list of priorities.
As for fish, here's what I'm thinking thus far:
powder blue tang
chevron tang
yellow tang
purple tang
Hawaiian flasher wrasse
rhomboid wrasse
black cap basslet
candy basslet
purple firefish
yellow (or blue) assessor
... and eventually a bottom dweller, like perhaps a mandarin or pistol shrimp goby. I'd really like a blue spot jawfish but I'm terrified about it jumping out with my open top. Any other suggestions?
Here's an explanation of why elevated carbonate hardness is bad in ZEOvit systems. Zeolites (the rocks we use in the reactor) function by ion exchange. That is, they absorb a charged particle and release a similarly charged particle. Not all zeolites are the same, some have an affinity for certain ions while others prefer different ions. The ZEOlites used in the ZEOvit method have a particular affinity for ammonium ions, and in exchange they release sodium and potassium. The ammonium absorbed onto the ZEOlith rock is used as nutrition for bacteria that are kept in relative high concentraion.
When carbonate hardness (alkalinity) is increased above 8 dKH, the ZEOliths begin to function differently in that they begin to exchange ions other than ammonium. This results in a nutrient spike that can shock and harm corals that have adapted to a nutrient-poor environment, or perhaps other cation imbalance (like Ca++, K+, etc.) that can similarly be detrimental to the corals.
I have read Rich's article in the past and it contains outstanding advice. I have had the Penn Plax B-11 battery-powered pump on my "wish list" for a long time but I've been reluctant to pull the trigger since this would require a visible power cord (or 2). On the other hand, once the corals grow it may just be invisible and this is something I should move up on my list of priorities.
As for fish, here's what I'm thinking thus far:
powder blue tang
chevron tang
yellow tang
purple tang
Hawaiian flasher wrasse
rhomboid wrasse
black cap basslet
candy basslet
purple firefish
yellow (or blue) assessor
... and eventually a bottom dweller, like perhaps a mandarin or pistol shrimp goby. I'd really like a blue spot jawfish but I'm terrified about it jumping out with my open top. Any other suggestions?
Dudester
Premium Member
Yes, Chris, the rock on the left breaches the surface at all times. It's actually pretty cool when the wave approaches it and rides up the sides, nearing but not eclipsing the top. I often find snails climbing the rock and they remain out of the water for extended periods of time before returning below the water line. And by the way, since you wished me luck on the gorgonian things have really turned around. The algae has receded and nearly all of the white polyps are extended.
chris wright
In Memoriam
Just catching up as RC does their nightly backups at odd times for people in Oz :lol:
If there is algae building up on your gorgonian, I would point a little more flow in it's direction. Mine is an easier to keep specimen, plain brown, and photosynthetic, but I find that the more flow that they get the more the polyps come out. It's my understanding that gorgonian's have poor prey capture ability, so rely on good water flows, and as you pointed out I agree that your's is not photosynthetic, so it will rely on sourcing food from the water. I dose my tank marine snow and similar products in small amounts and I believe this helps.
Good luck with the salinity, I use a refractometer as well, but I have never had a problem with mine.
Looking forward to some pics buy the way
Cheers
Chris
If there is algae building up on your gorgonian, I would point a little more flow in it's direction. Mine is an easier to keep specimen, plain brown, and photosynthetic, but I find that the more flow that they get the more the polyps come out. It's my understanding that gorgonian's have poor prey capture ability, so rely on good water flows, and as you pointed out I agree that your's is not photosynthetic, so it will rely on sourcing food from the water. I dose my tank marine snow and similar products in small amounts and I believe this helps.
Good luck with the salinity, I use a refractometer as well, but I have never had a problem with mine.
Looking forward to some pics buy the way
Cheers
Chris
maxxII
Super Housemonkey!
I saw that those posts were older, that was just an FYI kinda thing, if it cropped up again. I plan on running elevated Mag levels in the future just to be on the safe side.
Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.
Not necessarily, but you will most likely have some sort of visible airline tubing in the tank....unless you get creative. Maybe some Thorite covered rigid tubing into the tank with the airstone concealed by rock work? Just a thought...
I'm not as familiar w/ the flasher wrasses as I probably should be, but I'm dont know the Hawaiian Flasher Wrasse. Do you by any chance mean C. jordani, the Hawaiian Flame Wrasse?
Flasher and Fairy wrasses, (Rhomboid), are known jumpers, I would definately get some sort of covering over the tank if you want to keep them. In the CMAS forum, one of the members there made a really cool mesh covering for his tank that kept fish in and did not effect lighting very much at all....I'll see if I can find the link for you. If your gonna cover the top of the tank, then I say go for the blue spot. Ive seen them before and they are beautiful....even though I'm more partial to the Pearly jawfish...
The Purple and Yellow tangs are gonna have issues w/ each other, same family and same body shape...
My suggestion for dealing with this is to put the Yellow in as 3rd last fish. Get the smallest one you can find. Then add the Purple making sure its at least an inch larger than the Yellow to prevent severe squabbling. Finally, put in the Powder Blue, again, making sure its slightly larger than the Purple. Another option would be to find the smallest three tangs/nearest in size to each other, and place them all in at the same time. That way they have too much going on to try and beat on each other initially. Might still get some issues though...be prepared to remove one if need be.
Same sort of deal w/ your Blackcap and Yellow/Blue Assessor. Add the Assessor first as they are a much more docile fish. Blackcaps can get snotty....
Nick
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