Thanks everyone for the replies..
The main benefits of the euro-brace for me personally was:
1. Flat bracing enabling me to have maximize water levels, where in comparison to my current 6ft I was loosing literally a full 55mm compared with now only 20mm.
2. Appearances, now because of the flat single piece you no longer see my water line at all (the pelmet covers it) and it gives it that little bit more of a 'picture frame' look.
3. Because the euro brace has been put through the structural engineers computer to crunch the numbers (cost $500 just to have the design insured\backed by the engineer) it confirmed that this specific design (with the extra bracing in the middle and to certain thickness\width etc) gave it maximum structural integrity whilst reducing stress points around the bracing.
4. Its also made out of starfire to improve light penetration even if just slightly.
You need to remember that though my tank setup does have a lot of what we aussies call 'wank features', this is my ultimate tank setup and not one I plan on repeating so I would rather spend a few extra thousands at the end of it and have exactly what I always wanted than looking at it going 'I wish I had waited a bit longer and got the next model up etc'.
The previous tank broke due to a mix of reasons:
1. Glass was only 10mm where this new one is 16mm
2. Eurobracing was not laser cut and instead four pieces siliconed together but in a eurobrace style with no cross brace in the middle
3. The guy rush built it due to already excessive delays in the glass arriving and so siliconed the tank on a saturday and delivered it on a sunday with a little foot heater inside to speed up the drying process rather than allowing it to cure naturally at room temp for 10 days.
4. Because the tank hadnt cured properly in the transport one of the end panels had slightly (2-3mm) twisted inwards so that it was still held together but it was obvious it had been moved too early.
Ultimately though it was because the bracing and the front panels needed to be thicker.
Hi Nikon187 - Yeah I did know it was a Gigantica but failed to realise my mistake until after I had pressed submit. But 10 points for picking up on it.
As far as the spacing goes between the wier\combs and the top of the bracing there is absolutely minimal unfortunately. The only real design\build flaw that wasnt realised by the tank builder until he had put it all together. Thankfully he was able to set the combs down lower so that if needed the actual combs can be removed but even still theres no chance of getting my hand in there....mind you theres also no chance of a fish or even normal sized snail going in their either. The 90 degree elbows are only hand tightened but still loose enough so that if there was to be an issue I can rotate them upwards.
I cant really see how this could go wrong as I haven't had to touch my 6ft horizontal wier in the last year or so but I have had multiple snails and fish go down my durso causing blocks which had to be back flushed. Mind you as always in this hobby it has a special way of making all things variable.
Hi Bob60070 - The clowns get along fine as long as they dont see eachother

Essentially the Tomato Clowns would easily take the Occ out and are much more defensive attacking other similarly shaped fish that swim past where as the occ even when they are laying eggs seem pretty easy going the whole time. I have both clowns at each end and have never had any issues. I even had them at one stage within visual range of eachother and there still wasnt any issues but they did still have their own territories and it wasnt a risk I was willing to toy with for too long especially if their hosts decided to shuffle closer to eachother. The key other than territories is to make sure they have their own host each so that they dont try to kick eachother out.