Auto run RO container fill
- Thread starter Redman88
- Start date
Here : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-LEAK-...50ddd86&pid=100033&rk=3&rkt=4&sd=320985484111
This unit its a combination of valve and "Tampax" . good reliability, no electronics, no battery. I recommended for use like last stage of leakage protection.
This unit its a combination of valve and "Tampax" . good reliability, no electronics, no battery. I recommended for use like last stage of leakage protection.
Yes, its right. Its a final protector.. Alarm protector. But if you use it... Just use your floater valve as switch off, and open filling by time cycle! See my first post in this topic. Profit? - not need any wires and switches inside the RO tank.. Or you may use this solution for direct filling aqua.... Or tank may be in another room or outside the rooms...
alexkharden
New member
So did you get it set up? I want to set mine up, but you're my muse and I need to know how you do it and if it works for you, lol.
Redman88
New member
alexkharden
New member
Are you using a controller like an apex or anything?
alexkharden
New member
I have a question.
Wouldn't you want to flush the "tails" before you flush the membrane? Otherwise, wouldn't the higher tds water be running directly across your freshly flushed membrane?
Wouldn't you want to flush the "tails" before you flush the membrane? Otherwise, wouldn't the higher tds water be running directly across your freshly flushed membrane?
shifty51008
12-5 Chiefs record
Why do you need to flush the membrane? If you have the setup to run 1:4 1gal good water to 4 gal waste your already flushing the membrane that way.
alexkharden
New member
Flushing the membrane extends it's life, and the life of your DI resin. Flushing the tails extends the life of your DI resin.
shifty51008
12-5 Chiefs record
How does it save my di? I drain the first 3 min of my ro watee till my tds reads 3ppm before i let it go through the di. Ive even let my membrane flush for 5 min before but it didnt lower the tds after the ro any more than before.
And your flushing the membrane when you run the unit, thats what the waste water is doing.
alexkharden
New member
When you're running the first few minutes of water down the drain you're flushing the tails. When toy flush your membrane first and the tds is still high, that's the question I originally asked. That's exactly what I thought would happen, flushing the membrane before the tails.
If you have an inline tds, you can watch the tds go down as you're running. That initial higher tds is what you're avoiding, and by avoiding it you're giving you're di resin more life because it doesn't have to work as hard.
If you have an inline tds, you can watch the tds go down as you're running. That initial higher tds is what you're avoiding, and by avoiding it you're giving you're di resin more life because it doesn't have to work as hard.
alexkharden
New member
You usually only flush the membrane for like a minute, but the tails need longer. You're saying just flush the membrane for like five minutes and all will be good?
alexkharden
New member
On a different note, after going over your diagrams and my apex capabilities, I figured out how to do what you're doing with the apex. It'll take a little figuring out with the programming, but I don't think it'll be much of an issue. I ordered 3 NC 110v solenoids from the solenoidvalveguy.com last night, so we'll see. Hopefully he's not a rip off, I couldn't find much info on him or his site.
alexkharden
New member
From what I've read, brass/copper fittings are only problematic if/when being exposed to saltwater. I figured it wouldn't be an issue for the rodi. Is my thinking wrong?
