Auto run RO container fill

brass is fine as long as it is before the RODI unit but I wouldnt use it after the RO, even RO water can leach copper from brass fittings
 
Mine have been delivered but i haven't laid my hands one them yet.

Found a relay that will do the job for half the price of the one i was going to get, though it doesn't have the same options. But thats what i get for not checking specs before i hit the buy button.
 
Redman88 said:
Mine have been delivered but i haven't laid my hands one them yet.

Found a relay that will do the job for half the price of the one i was going to get, though it doesn't have the same options. But thats what i get for not checking specs before i hit the buy button.
Click to expand...

done that plenty of times in the past, yet I always find something to use the stuff on. lol
 
I couldn't use 12v, since I need to be able to control them with the eb8. Two of them are intended to go after the rodi. One to replace the flush valve, one between the rodi and the di, one on the line that will connect the product water to the wastewater. Only one will actually have product flow going through it though.
 
shifty51008 said:
How does it save my di? I drain the first 3 min of my ro watee till my tds reads 3ppm before i let it go through the di. Ive even let my membrane flush for 5 min before but it didnt lower the tds after the ro any more than before.

And your flushing the membrane when you run the unit, thats what the waste water is doing.
Click to expand...
Its a good sound, but more pleasure, then automatic system do it for you.
Then you flush "tails" after RO membraine, you save the DI .
 
shifty51008 said:
those are the same one's I got, should be here today. but i'm useing an arduino to control mine
Click to expand...
Good idea, but you need to think about power components , and maybe, optical insulations from 110/220v side.
This is my solution of combined RO Manager and direct auto filling sysytem..
5126d85a6b0360ee0d16032c47d078d4.jpg

d24327de6dba324f7cb0be4460fefd1c.jpg
 
Yes there will be a DI stage that is the point of the valves after the membrane to flush to waste and not exhaust the DI.
1xpjb
25.gif
 
Wouldn't you be better off to go with motorized valves on any fitting that will be in operation for any length of time? I thought solenoids will burn up if run too long?
 
Guys - be VERY careful with these solenoids. I'll almost guarantee you all the solenoids mentioned in this thread have wetted components NOT suitable for contact with RO or RODI water. Just because the valve body is poly don't assume all the wetted parts are compatible.

Russ
 
Buckeye Hydro said:
Guys - be VERY careful with these solenoids. I'll almost guarantee you all the solenoids mentioned in this thread have wetted components NOT suitable for contact with RO or RODI water. Just because the valve body is poly don't assume all the wetted parts are compatible.

Russ
Click to expand...
Do you have a solenoid you would recommend? How about a motorized valve? Would a stainless steel valve work? I've had trouble finding a plastic plastic motorized valve (stateside, anyway).
Thanks
 
"Rated for water" is VERY different than
"Rated for RO water" or "Rated for DI water" or "Rated for demineralized water."

A plain old brass solenoid valve is fine for "water."

Remember that purified water like we're talking about should not contact metallic surfaces other than stainless. Never should it come in contact with brass or copper for instance. These are commonly present as wetted components in solenoids.

We just spec'ed some 1/2" continuous use solenoids for contact with RO water on a big commercial RO system - hundreds of $ each.

Russ
 
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