Auto Top Off Brand ATO's......PROBLEM

smalls383

New member
I purchased a Auto Top Off brand ATO unit about 3 weeks back. Worked great up until today.....

When the unit senses that the water is low it kicks on a small Rio powerhead in my reservoir...then fills the tank. At first I noticed that when the unit turned off the pump, it started to make a rapid clicking sound for about 1-2 seconds then it would turn off the pump. Not good….Did this about 2-3 times

Now, when the water is low....it senses, fills the tank, then when the unit tries to shut the pump off it "pops" my GFI outlet. This time no sound. Has done it numerous times in the tests I have put it through...

Anyone else have this problem????
 
So your saying that this clicking sound is normal. It just started doing this. Hmm.....I guess I can understand why this would happen but this has go to be very bad for the life of the solenoid or relay in there...

What brand do you have and you also hear this?? Has it every popped your GFI?
 
Sadly my tank isn't plugged into a GFCI. And I made my own top off with pretty much the same stuff you got with your ATO set-up. But the popping the GFCI receptacle isn't good. Are you running more than 15A through the outlet? That is the only thing I can think of. someone with more experience with GFCI will chime in.
 
I did just add another small powerhead in my sump for a TLF reactor.....Hmmm....I have a lot of stuff plugged in that outlet but 15A's worth!!! Doubt it.....Anyone have any GFI advise on this issue???
 
Assuming there is not a short circuit in the sytem, as the water level rises the reed switch in the float try to switch off but if there is the sligtest wave or level variation the float will not activate the switch completely causing some sparking that creates the switching and also electrical transient impulses that trigers the GFCI as if it were a fault to ground.
A partial solution will be to enclose the float in a casule made with a piece of PVC and PVC cap on the bottom with some perforations leaving the top of the pipe open and above the water level. This will prevent waving action from disturbing the float while closing.

The permanent solution is really to use two floats, one lower than the other. The lower one turns the pump on and the higher one will turn the pump off using one of the relaycontacts as memory.

Float_Circuit.gif
 
Thank you for the detailed post.....I do have two floats, but the second is for back-up if the lower one fails. I would like to keep it as a back up.

Is this a common problem that has been heard before I why did this just start to happen.
 
I would just call them and talk with them...I have little doubt they will be able to help you or talk to you about replacing...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14848798#post14848798 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by smalls383
Thank you for the detailed post.....I do have two floats, but the second is for back-up if the lower one fails. I would like to keep it as a back up.

Is this a common problem that has been heard before I why did this just start to happen.
Every time the switch activates it creates a small spark that burns the contacts and as time pases it has more dificulty making the proper switching, as more false switching is made more sparking is done and more dmage made to the contacts. This is why means for latching have to be provided were the relay activates at the slightest switching and cuts the power to the float so no repetitive switching happens.
If you want to have a back up you can still use the above circuit with a third float connected in series with the upper float, if the uper float fails to disconnect, the back up float will do so.
Also were the water enters the sump you can use a float valve, if either of the float switches fails to activate the float valve will prevent water from continue being added although it will not stop the powerhead.
 
I have an email into the company. I am interested to see what the issue is with this item. I may try another test....this time have the auto top off power cord plugged into a regular socket.

I know its not right....but in this case it may be an exception. I do believe that my GFIC is a bit more sensitive then others....sometimes it will trigger just by plugging something in.

Anyone else have a similar problem with auto tops off switching and their GFIC??
 
I hate to be a critic, but that elementary (single line, wiring) diagram is wrong in too many ways,

+1 on the rationale with the GFI.

-1 with the single line.
 
I use the system almost exactly like jdieck's drawing, except I use three float switches. The top two are wired in series and if either one trips the relay then it will turn the pump off. I love the latching system. ;)
 
Problem is fixed!

I talked to Paul at autotopoff.com and he helped me discover the problem. Just the other day I moved my sump mount double sensor top off unit to a different spot in my tank. This was the problem.

I had moved the unit to a spot in the sump that was incidentally closer to my Mag Drive 7 (magnetic) return pump. The lower float sensor was about 1 inch above my pump. The magnetic field from the pump was interfering with the magnets in the float level sensors. This caused the clicking or buzzing in my electronic module which popped the GFCI.

I moved the unit back to the original position and works fine.

So......FYI for you who might have a similar situation.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14849470#post14849470 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stricknine
I hate to be a critic, but that elementary (single line, wiring) diagram is wrong in too many ways,

+1 on the rationale with the GFI.

-1 with the single line.

That is not a single line diagram and I would appreciate if you have comments that could make it better.
Now this is a single line diagram ...

electric.gif
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14851607#post14851607 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by smalls383
Problem is fixed!

I talked to Paul at autotopoff.com and he helped me discover the problem. Just the other day I moved my sump mount double sensor top off unit to a different spot in my tank. This was the problem.

I had moved the unit to a spot in the sump that was incidentally closer to my Mag Drive 7 (magnetic) return pump. The lower float sensor was about 1 inch above my pump. The magnetic field from the pump was interfering with the magnets in the float level sensors. This caused the clicking or buzzing in my electronic module which popped the GFCI.

I moved the unit back to the original position and works fine.

So......FYI for you who might have a similar situation.

That is great.
Enjoy!
 
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