Auto topoff

Ding2daDong

New member
Mark over at Reefs Edge gave me this autotop off and was wondering if anyone knew how this unit worked. Someone said it needs to be hooked up to an R/O unit and I think it's just a plug and play unit.

Here's a picture

acan013.jpg


Just wondering if anyone has used this unit in particular and could help me out a little?

Thanks

-Matthew
 
Its simple.

The suction cups attach to the sump or inside of the tank. Put it to the level where you want it and its set. Then you take one of the hoses (whichever is going to suck the water in) and place that hose into freshwater(not SW). The other hose goes into the tank and from that hose it will fill the tank when the level drops.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9996398#post9996398 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ek9vboi
Its simple.

The suction cups attach to the sump or inside of the tank. Put it to the level where you want it and its set. Then you take one of the hoses (whichever is going to suck the water in) and place that hose into freshwater(not SW). The other hose goes into the tank and from that hose it will fill the tank when the level drops.

I thought that water came through the actual float valve...? Oh okay then, thats what was kinda confusing me.

Thanks

-Matthew
 
Matt, I have never connected a device like that but I recognize each one of the components and I can tell you what they are, the system appears to be missing a few pieces.

The black device with the yellow&wht cords and hoses is a low voltage solenoid (basically an electronic shut valve) it also has the power cord and transformer.
The device that looks like a clear tube cigar and the hose is a level switch, pretty much tells your solenoid to close/opens or tells your pump to start /stop.

I think this connects in the following way, you will need to add an ro/di water vat that has a 1/4'' connection an hose tapped to the bottom or side, this hose will be connected to the a float valve in your sump.
The solenoid will be connected to the your ro/di unit street water supply inlet, and will control when you produce water or not.
The level switch will be placed in the fresh water vat and connected to the solenoid, this is what will tell the solenoid to open/close.

when the tank evaporates water the water level in your sump cavity will lower, this will make the float valve open the seal and pull water by gravity from your water vat, which in turn will lower the level and through the level switch tell the solenoid to refill and the ro/di unit will start making water.

Hope you understand, sorry if I made it sound complicated :D
 
Matt,

Not trying to be overly pessimistic, but it's important to be aware of the dangers of any auto topoff. The one you're looking at has suction cups and a solenoid. Solenoids have a finite life and will fail eventually. Murphy's law dictates that they normally fail in the open position. Also, suction cups can deteriorate rapidly in saltwater. If the cups harden and don't stay attached, the level sensor can't tell what the water level is. Again, Murphy's Law dictates the sensor will report low water when this happens, instructing the solenoid to add more water.

There are a few things you can do to make this setup safer. Instead of suction cups, try to come up with a more permanent method to mount the level sensor. Maybe firmly attach it to a length of 3/4" PVC that hooks over the top of the sump. Concerns of overflowing would be mitigated by using an RO/DI reservoir that's sized so that your sump could hold all of its water and STILL not overflow if the power went out. (I'm not a fan of using these to control an RO/DI's production, since that's a potentially infinite supply of water.)
 
I just got an ro/di unit but have yet to install it. I might go with a different ATO because of the points you stated.

Do any of you know of some good, reliable ATO?

Thanks

-Matthew
 
They all have their drawbacks, to be honest.

I use an elevated RO/DI reservoir and gravity feed with a mechanical Kent float valve to control everything. If the valve ever fails, my sump can hold all of the water in the reservoir. I refill the reservoir every week or two by manually turning on the RO/DI. Another float valve prevents the RO/DI from overflowing the reservoir before I shut it back off.

IMO, this is a pretty safe way to go - no electricity, minimal moving parts, limited water volume. But, it isn't practical for everyone.
 
Heh. Not to rub salt in a fresh wound, Rogger, but it worked great, especially when you had that leak :/ :( Hope all is well now though, and I know the leak wasn't the osmolator's fault, but that's why you can never get too comfortable with a working system.... Did you end up ever trying out a salinity meter? or you're just checking salinity more often? or neither...?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10020826#post10020826 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jeffbrig
They all have their drawbacks, to be honest.

I use an elevated RO/DI reservoir and gravity feed with a mechanical Kent float valve to control everything. If the valve ever fails, my sump can hold all of the water in the reservoir. I refill the reservoir every week or two by manually turning on the RO/DI. Another float valve prevents the RO/DI from overflowing the reservoir before I shut it back off.

IMO, this is a pretty safe way to go - no electricity, minimal moving parts, limited water volume. But, it isn't practical for everyone.

I'll agree with you 100% on this one Jeff. This is the way I've always done it. Although I have one Kent Float valve that somehow got a crack in it so I attached a piece of styro to all of them.
 
Matt,
I am considering using this top-it-off kit premium from aquahub (aquahub dot com). My RO/DI is upstairs, so mine will be used with a bucket of water and an aqualifter pump. For extra protection, I will probably put this on a 2 minute timer 3x a day.

Has anyone else used these?
 
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