Im planning a fishroom and want to have a automatic water change system. I have read many threads here on RC, but still cant find one or this type of system. can anyone please refer me to a good informative thread? My DT will be a 80g. 3x2x2. With 40g sump. I want to exchange 10 to 15 gal per week. I'd love to see pictures of your systems and your fishrooms. I have lots of ideas but not data to know that any of them will work. Please help!!!
auto water change system?
- Thread starter peppie
- Start date
bearpeidog
Member
Hello - I just implemented a LiterMeter3 and do 15 gallons per week. In essence, its two dosing pumps, and once calibrated, will put in exactly what it takes out. So, I mix up a 50 gallon batch of water and allow it to change out during the course of the week.
So far it's been rock solid and all you need to run is RO line. One will run into your drain (old display water) and the other from your new mixed water.
So far its really help my corals. Since xmas, my little superman frag has doubled in size. I was not good about water changes (I also added a calc reactor so I'm sure that isn't hurting
So far it's been rock solid and all you need to run is RO line. One will run into your drain (old display water) and the other from your new mixed water.
So far its really help my corals. Since xmas, my little superman frag has doubled in size. I was not good about water changes (I also added a calc reactor so I'm sure that isn't hurting
bearpeidog
Member
You can find the litermeter3 at a variety of websites such as marinedepot.com. Just search for LiterMeter3 and you should get a match.
Others have also recommended a cheaper solution " reef filler dual head pump" I believe Randy Holmes uses these on his tank and hasn't had problems (at least that I've seen posted). Randy puts out some rock solid info in the chemistry forums and as such I put a lot of stock in his posts.
It's far from fail proof though. For example, a pump could fail or hose break in the pump. Also, if the "new" mixed water runs dry then it will continue to pump out water, with nothing to return.
It does have some protection. It will shutoff in case you pump in too much water (high flow sensor). They recommend you leave the line that pulls the water out just high enough so that it can't take out too much water. The pump can run dry without issue. So, Low and High water levels are handled UNLESS you have an ATO. At that point the low level condition never hits because my ATO will replenish the supply (and lower salinity). Some float switches will provide a work around but I haven't done it yet.
I posted a thread about this and people did mention the reliability of the LiterMeter. However, like everything, I'm sure they can break. I still closely monitor and keep an eye on things. Its a slow process (15 gallons over a week) so I figure I have plenty of time to know if something is going south. I love the fact that I don't lug buckets anymore and my waterchanges are getting done.
Here is a link that I had started that might have a few more details and differing opinions (always good to get those!): http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1763905
Good luck!
Others have also recommended a cheaper solution " reef filler dual head pump" I believe Randy Holmes uses these on his tank and hasn't had problems (at least that I've seen posted). Randy puts out some rock solid info in the chemistry forums and as such I put a lot of stock in his posts.
It's far from fail proof though. For example, a pump could fail or hose break in the pump. Also, if the "new" mixed water runs dry then it will continue to pump out water, with nothing to return.
It does have some protection. It will shutoff in case you pump in too much water (high flow sensor). They recommend you leave the line that pulls the water out just high enough so that it can't take out too much water. The pump can run dry without issue. So, Low and High water levels are handled UNLESS you have an ATO. At that point the low level condition never hits because my ATO will replenish the supply (and lower salinity). Some float switches will provide a work around but I haven't done it yet.
I posted a thread about this and people did mention the reliability of the LiterMeter. However, like everything, I'm sure they can break. I still closely monitor and keep an eye on things. Its a slow process (15 gallons over a week) so I figure I have plenty of time to know if something is going south. I love the fact that I don't lug buckets anymore and my waterchanges are getting done.
Here is a link that I had started that might have a few more details and differing opinions (always good to get those!): http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1763905
Good luck!
bearpeidog
Member
Forgot to answer this part - It depends on your consumption. You may/may not need to suppliment depending on your demand. Testing will provide the answer - but since I added mine, my Calc and ALK are rock solid. PH is a little low (8.0-7.8) but I think its fine since my ALK is high.
There are many ways to suppliment such as dripping two part, calcium reactor or Kalc reactor, Turbo Calc. If you can get away with just water changes then IMO you are better off as its less that can go wrong.
I change 1% daily with a dual head Reef filler pump. I love the system.
BUT, it is unlikely that water changes will maintain alkalinity even if you change 5% daily. You'd need more like 30-50% daily for an SPS tank and maybe 10-30% daily for a mixed tank.
I show that here:
Water Changes in Reef Aquaria
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/index.php
from it:
Figure 23. Alkalinity as a function of time when performing very large daily water changes of 0% (no changes), 5%, 10%, 15% and 30% of the total volume EACH DAY. In this example, alkalinity is present at 4 meq/L (11 dKH) at the start and is depleted at a low rate of 0.2 meq/L per day.
Figure 24. Alkalinity as a function of time when performing very large daily water changes of 0% (no changes), 15%, 30% and 50% of the total volume EACH DAY. In this example, alkalinity is present at 4 meq/L (11 dKH) at the start and is depleted at a moderately high rate of 1 meq/L per day.
BUT, it is unlikely that water changes will maintain alkalinity even if you change 5% daily. You'd need more like 30-50% daily for an SPS tank and maybe 10-30% daily for a mixed tank.
I show that here:
Water Changes in Reef Aquaria
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/index.php
from it:
Figure 23. Alkalinity as a function of time when performing very large daily water changes of 0% (no changes), 5%, 10%, 15% and 30% of the total volume EACH DAY. In this example, alkalinity is present at 4 meq/L (11 dKH) at the start and is depleted at a low rate of 0.2 meq/L per day.
Figure 24. Alkalinity as a function of time when performing very large daily water changes of 0% (no changes), 15%, 30% and 50% of the total volume EACH DAY. In this example, alkalinity is present at 4 meq/L (11 dKH) at the start and is depleted at a moderately high rate of 1 meq/L per day.
Thanks guys you have been very helpful. I will do some more homework here at RC. I want to be able to make my reef tank as enjoyable as possible and I believe that planning for easy maintinace will help me make that possible. Since I have posted this Q I have come up with a few ideas about the whole RO/DI to saltwater changes for my fishroom. Thanks to this awsome site. Thanks to all who respond.
:thumbsup:
Good luck.
Good luck.
