Bad Fish Week For Me

[Stuart60611]

Make sure you dose the cupramine in small incriments so as to get to the .5 level no quicker than 4-5 days with the cupramine rising proportionally each day. Any quicker and could have an adverse reaction. Cupramine is therapeutic for crypt as low as .2 so fish will start to get relief once this level is reached. Also, dosing live bacteria, especially in the start of treatment, can make a big difference in ammonia problems. Also, feed very sparingly and remove any uneaten food. Do NOT stir up any debris that builds up on the hospital tank bottom b/c will cause a massive ammonia spike (killed a fish this way once). Fish may go on a hungar strike. As long as they were reasonably fat beforehand, I would not worry at all about it. Fish which were healthy to begin with should have no trouble going the entire treatment period of 3 weeks to 1 month without food. You must treat for a full 21 days at .5 to be kill the crypt. Also, display must be fishless for 8-10 weeks. Once the cupramine treeatment is concluded in the hospital tank, you may also want to consider treating your fish with prazipro for flukes or other worms if they have never been so treated. You will have plenty of extra time with the display being fallowed to do such a treatment.

 

[SkullV]

Hm, 8-10 weeks? I have always heard 6-8. I guess I'll go with 8 then?

 

[Stuart60611]

Hm, 8-10 weeks? I have always heard 6-8. I guess I'll go with 8 then?

Some say 10-12 weeks. If you keep the display tank temperature at above 80F, then I would think 8 should be sufficient. 6 weeks is very risky and often is not enough.

 

[SkullV]

**UPDATE**

All the fish in the Hospital are active, eating and breathing normally after turning the air pump back on!

I have one more question.

Since I am only at half dose of copper right now can I add a coral beauty to the hospital tank and just treat it with everyone else? I ask because I happen to have a flame angel that accepted the previous coral beauty without too much fuss, the Coral Beauty was my girlfriend's fish, and she won't be back for a couple weeks. If I can replace it before she gets back she'll never know! :dance:​

Here's a video. You can see that the Cysts have fallen off all the fish except for the Sargassum's fins. The wrasse is belligerent but what would you expect going from a large display tank to a tiny hospital section. If I get the coral beauty it's going in with the wrasse.

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Some say 10-12 weeks. If you keep the display tank temperature at above 80F, then I would think 8 should be sufficient. 6 weeks is very risky and often is not enough.

Good to hear. I'll crank the temp then. How hot can I run it without hurting the bacteria in there? 82?

 

[Pufferpunk]

I've never read anything about heat helping get rid of crypt. Is there a link to this somewhere?

 

[jcw]

I've never read anything about heat helping get rid of crypt. Is there a link to this somewhere?

I think the idea came from freshwater ich which is what I read a different organism.

 

[Pufferpunk]

That's what i was thinking.

 

[SkullV]

Well on the plus side I put in for a large order of inverts for the FOWLR tank. That way they can be in there fishless for 8 weeks so even if they bring in crypt it will be gone. The 8 week counter will start the day they go in.

Feeding them and their byproducts should also help keep the biological filter alive.

 

[SkullV]

How do you go about measuring Ammonia when using cupramine? Seachem says it will give a false positive on most tests.

 

[Pufferpunk]

I really wish you would have used hypo instead. It's so much safer & much less confusing.

 

[the reefer]

hope everything turns out ok for u man

 

[SkullV]

I really wish you would have used hypo instead. It's so much safer & much less confusing.

I have just seen copper work with my own eyes and hypo requires WAY too much precision to be effective. One day over 1.009 and the whole thing needs to be started over again.

Copper is easy to measure with a test kit and there is a HUGE range between therapeutic and toxic.

I am just worried about the ammonia detection right now so when i test tomorrow I can establish a baseline. As of right now everyone is swimming and breathing normally so I'm going to assume that the ammonia level is still 0.

 

[SkullV]

Flame Angel died . I have a lot of hope for the pinkface wrasse and the trigger since they are FAT and very hardy.

Here's to hoping. I really wish I didn't buy that stupid fish on here and trust it's previous owner. Seemed like such a great deal at the time. Worst part is I'm not the only one who got ich from a fish he sold or lost MANY fish because of the fish he sold.

 

[Pufferpunk]

So sorry for your tragedy. It is possible his fish weren't showing signs of the parasite & it was not attacking the fish while in his tank but when moved into a new environment, the stress caused it to come out on them.

 

[SkullV]

Well the Sargassum Trigger has been acting funny.

He has been doing barrel rolls. He always rights himself, stays out in the open and has been breathing normally but I have noticed decreased appetite.

I saw one short sentence about a trigger doing barrel rolls on Wet Web Media and the "staff member" said that it was possible the trigger was bored or "bummed" as he put it.

Any info would be great. I would hate to lose this guy.

 

[SkullV]

Did a 25% water change and replaced the 8 copper drops that were removed by the water change. The ammonia reading stayed the same so I'm assuming that my API kit is getting the false positive advertised by seachem that hapens when you use cupramine.

Either way I added some Nutrafin Cycle to help with the bacteria. Hopefully it works.

 

[SkullV]

Sorry for the 10 million updates, but I'm always looking for advice.

Checked out the clownfish, everything that was on it is gone, so I'm guess it was some lympho or fungus. Definitely wasn't ich.

The pinkface wrasse is laying on the bottom of the QT but breathing normally so it may just be sleeping. I know they sleep on the bottom or under sand in the DT so who knows. I guess we'll see tomorrow.

 

[SkullV]

Well the pinkface wrasse (in my avatar has died). Water test shows 0amm, 0nitrate, 0nitrite, pH 8.2 and copper 2.5 which is WELL below the toxic level especially for hardy fish like wrasses/triggers. That leaves just the Sargassum Trigger (my favorite fish) left alive in QT. I clearly waited too long to treat all these fish. I wish I had treated at the first sign of Crypt.

If this Sargassum Trigger dies I will be breaking down the FOWLR and focusing on the nanocube for the next couple years.

 

[Pufferpunk]

So sorry, I know you really loved that wrasse. Maybe you'll make that bigger tank into a reef eventually.

 

[SkullV]

So sorry, I know you really loved that wrasse. Maybe you'll make that bigger tank into a reef eventually.

Thanks for the condolences. I would never set this tank up as a reef. I am going to be moving in under 2 years and moving a 100gish reef would not be any good. FOWLR is easy, toss the rock in a rubbermaid tub, toss the fish in bags, empty water, set up at new destination.

I will have another large tank once I move but it will be a brand new tank, drilled and set up my way (C2C overflow, beananimal, closed loop, etc.). For now I would take the money from selling the FOWLR and put it into equipment for the nanocube.