basement sumps?
- Thread starter MSU Fan
- Start date
That was the biggest flaw thatI saw in your plan... though it was good.
My basement sump utilizes a 55, but I learned the hard way...I broke it, cleaned it up, and out, bought a new panel, drilled a hole, and rebuilt it.
I think everyone needs that experience atleast once... like Luke Skywalker building his own Light Saber... your not a true reefer till you've cut your hands and sealed the cuts the same week with silicone.
I may know where there is a 55 with an end missing, but otherwise, the back banel on my 55 costed around 35-40$ undrilled.
good luck ordering a custom one, I tried that too. You may checkout Glasscages.com, and look at the acrylic ones. Those you can drill. I think they want to have it shipped to a biz address though, pm me if you don't have one, don't think they will ship to residentials...don't quote me on that...
call them.
J
My basement sump utilizes a 55, but I learned the hard way...I broke it, cleaned it up, and out, bought a new panel, drilled a hole, and rebuilt it.
I think everyone needs that experience atleast once... like Luke Skywalker building his own Light Saber... your not a true reefer till you've cut your hands and sealed the cuts the same week with silicone.
I may know where there is a 55 with an end missing, but otherwise, the back banel on my 55 costed around 35-40$ undrilled.
good luck ordering a custom one, I tried that too. You may checkout Glasscages.com, and look at the acrylic ones. Those you can drill. I think they want to have it shipped to a biz address though, pm me if you don't have one, don't think they will ship to residentials...don't quote me on that...
call them.
J
Oh-yeah... my overall mental well-being and confidence in my system improved greatly AFTER I got rid of my siphons and went to drillable tanks...
What about looking for a used and scratched 75? or 90? or a couple for that mater. the sides (not the bottoms) of those can be drilled.
Your total vol would increase, and my frag system got so much sweeter when I switched to a 75,
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What about looking for a used and scratched 75? or 90? or a couple for that mater. the sides (not the bottoms) of those can be drilled.
Your total vol would increase, and my frag system got so much sweeter when I switched to a 75,
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MSU Fan
Active member
Thanks Jason - appreciate that. I really do want to use that tank since it is sitting idle, and well, it would make a nice fuge.
If I can find some success stories with that super siphon, I may give that a shot. As for ordering a tank from glasscages - I have read enough horror stories about their tanks to skip that idea. Although, who knows really.
customcolor
New member
the super sucking siphon has a weir so your tank wont empty and a Siphon Trap so no air will get in to preak the siphon. almost like what under your bathroom sink
I might point out that the sump on that lower picture is an acrylic tank from them, no complaints...
I just wanted to save you the heart ache...
I also want to save you the cleanup bill after that siphon breaks...
sell the 55, buy a 75, or even a couple 30's and chamberize...
You'll be happier on vacation knowing that you have not left the task of keeping it running to... my mother - in - law.... for example....
I'm not wild about that air hose thing going on in those pics... spend 50-100 dollars and do it right, and not cob it together for 45 and pay 500$ in damages later when it overflows....
Just my experience talking....not my .02
JK
I just wanted to save you the heart ache...
I also want to save you the cleanup bill after that siphon breaks...
sell the 55, buy a 75, or even a couple 30's and chamberize...
You'll be happier on vacation knowing that you have not left the task of keeping it running to... my mother - in - law.... for example....
I'm not wild about that air hose thing going on in those pics... spend 50-100 dollars and do it right, and not cob it together for 45 and pay 500$ in damages later when it overflows....
Just my experience talking....not my .02
JK
customcolor
New member
if you build it right it shouldnt fail. u could also do power outage tests too. just unplug the pump-wait till water stops flowing-plug pump back in and see what happens.
MSU Fan
Active member
so, another question - between the stock tank and the return pump I should have a ball valve and union to allow me to unhook the pump from the stock tank without flooding the floor. Would a true union work for this?
True Union
I'm just wondering since this seems to be the best of both fittings in a nice compact setup.
I am also unclear on one other point. I think, generally, most people comment that a 1" PVC pipe can move 600gph. Would it be fair to assume that means with gravity? And that, with a pump, you can move more water through that size pipe and not sacrifice anything? Then my question is: what is the maximum that you can move in a pipe given a certain size? Is there a formula or calculator? I think I just need to understand this for a lot of plumbing unknowns to start becoming clearer.
True Union
I'm just wondering since this seems to be the best of both fittings in a nice compact setup.
I am also unclear on one other point. I think, generally, most people comment that a 1" PVC pipe can move 600gph. Would it be fair to assume that means with gravity? And that, with a pump, you can move more water through that size pipe and not sacrifice anything? Then my question is: what is the maximum that you can move in a pipe given a certain size? Is there a formula or calculator? I think I just need to understand this for a lot of plumbing unknowns to start becoming clearer.
customcolor
New member
yes u can PUSH more water through a 1" with a pump but u will loose gph do to friction loss and restriction, but you will get speed out of it. just think about the drain and the return on your tank. the drain is larger thatn the return. gravity can only do so much so we make up for it by making the drain large enough to do as much as we need. Did that make any sence?
customcolor
New member
how much do u want to put through? is it for the return or the drain?
customcolor
New member
i know what u mean.
customcolor
New member
try this http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/drain.php it will giv u a good idea
MSU Fan
Active member
that's very helpful - thanks Dave.
Anyway, Holly and I are officially candidates for Darwin Awards at this point. All this talk about the 55g not being drillable, and we need to find a new tank to be our fuge, man we dropped the ball.
We have in our basement this sump (CPR Aquatic CR3000 Wet/Dry Filter, which has not been set up yet. It is acrylic, and although it is designed to be a Wet/Dry, I think that I can convert this to a fuge/grow out tank.
It is altogether ~47g, so given a little head space it is probably 35g or so. This should satisfy our needs for a fuge...somehow
I think that I will need to plug the current bulkheads somehow, and redrill some holes higher on the walls to control the movement of water. Right now, both sections are connected via 1" bulkhead only 2" up from the bottom. I am thinking that i need to raise that up to make that section so that it will fill with water, and not be the "wet/dry" it was designed to be. The exit bulkhead from the fuge section is the same way as far as height. I may also need to add a baffle into that section...
Anyway, Holly and I are officially candidates for Darwin Awards at this point. All this talk about the 55g not being drillable, and we need to find a new tank to be our fuge, man we dropped the ball.
We have in our basement this sump (CPR Aquatic CR3000 Wet/Dry Filter, which has not been set up yet. It is acrylic, and although it is designed to be a Wet/Dry, I think that I can convert this to a fuge/grow out tank.
It is altogether ~47g, so given a little head space it is probably 35g or so. This should satisfy our needs for a fuge...somehow
I think that I will need to plug the current bulkheads somehow, and redrill some holes higher on the walls to control the movement of water. Right now, both sections are connected via 1" bulkhead only 2" up from the bottom. I am thinking that i need to raise that up to make that section so that it will fill with water, and not be the "wet/dry" it was designed to be. The exit bulkhead from the fuge section is the same way as far as height. I may also need to add a baffle into that section...
kiowascout
New member
could yo uget away with putting a standpipe in one side of the bulkhead to force the water level higher?
