Basic Quarantine FAQ's

[Delprincipe]

QT set up

QT set up

Have read through this thread and am now convinced that a QT is a must. We are new and have had our TBS tank up for almost 2 months now. We are looking at fish and wanted to start with the basics, chromis. Figured if they needed to be in QT for 6-8 weeks then our DT would be mature enough to handle them by the time they were finished.

We have a 10gal tank set aside for QT purposes. We have a small Hydor heater (if needed) and a HOB power filter rated for up to 20 gallons. Will this filter also act as circulation ordo we still need to get a small circulation pump. Also, should we be putting the filter cartridge in our DT HOB skimmer?

 

[Delprincipe]

ALSO... is there an advantage for PVC pipe over a chunk of Live rock, or vice versa? Can any of these diseases attach and florish in QT live rock? And finally, someone mentioned earlier about blacking out the back of the tank, what is the purpose for doing that?

 

[mbd521]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RBU1

My only thoughts.....2 weeks in my opinion is not long enough. I would want to QT a fish for at least 8 weeks especially if you are not treating with anything.


I would, and do, agree. Roughly quoting from RegalAngel's post..

Quote:

Originally Posted by RegalAngel

If I purchase a fish(es) from a quality operator where the fish are observed and expected to be disease free then I will QT for about two weeks for observation to confirm what I expect...a disease free fish. But during this time if I observe something unusual in a fishes behavior or physical issue then it is aggressive QT for 4-6 weeks. It will be aggressive QT for fishes from other suppliers where the same observation and quality control does not take place, so it is up to me to be more than sure.

Two weeks is a minimum for observation. There's nothing wrong with longer observation IMO. Of course if other treatment is required then it might take 6-8 weeks total, or even longer, until the fish is ready to be placed into the display.

My protocol is usually a week to ensure they're eating well, then a week or two of Prazi Pro regardless of evidence of parasites or not. If all is well after 2-3 weeks I transfer to the display.

Posted from ReefCentral.com App for Android

 

[wooden_reefer]

"Q: What filtration do I need for my QT?
A: The more the better. A skimmer is beneficial and in some cases can be run with medication in the water. A HOB filter adds more surface for bacteria to colonize as well as a place to run filter pads and carbon. A ball of chaetomorpha is a good idea provided there is light available. There's no substitute for live rock but keep in mind that copper as well as other medications will contaminate the rock permanently (never use it with inverts). Bottom line; use water changes to maintain water quality regardless of the filtration methods in place."

I have to completely disagree that live rock is good for a QT.

Sometimes for very finicky feeders, acclimation must precede actual QT. LR is good for acclimation.

For actual QT, LR is a very bad filtration medium. It is too unwieldy. Better is sacks of crushed coral or even fluffy polyester .

 

[wooden_reefer]

Okay, this may sound stupid, but I've been wondering this:
If you have a QT tank set up ahead of time seeded with water from display tank, how long will the beneficial bacteria stay alive without any fish in it?

At least three weeks, possibly longer.

 

[MrTuskfish]

At least three weeks, possibly longer.

WHAT???? He was talking about water!
Water from the DT is not cycled and contains very little aerobic bacteria. Water does not cycle a tank, bacteria cultures on filter media do. There is no such thing as cycled water.

 

[Joon16]

I have read plenty and finished my treatment/fallow for ICH. There is still 1 part I am confused on though and hopefully you guys can clear it up for me. So all my fish went through Cupramine treatment and are back in the tank after 10 weeks. They all look amazing and happy. Yesterday, I bought a Diamond Watchman Goby and put him in QT. Now here's the part im confused on... When my Blue Tang got ICH, I had to go through the treatment/fallow period will ALL my fish, even though only the Blue Tang showed signs. Now that my Diamond Goby is in QT, couldnt he still have brought the ICH parasite even though he isn't showing signs? Even if he is fine after 4 weeks of QT, couldnt the parasite still be living on him and get trasfered into the DT although he isn't showing signs of ICH? I don't understand why you have to treat all fish in DT if one gets ICH, but you dont have to treat new fish? All these fish came from the same LFS so the parasite must be in their water. So shouldn't I treat the Goby anyway?

 

[mos90]

joon...

at 4 weeks an infected fish should show signs.

if 1 fish in your dt has most likely all the fish have it. that is why u must treat all the fish and maintain a fallow dt for 8-10 weeks.

you can treat the goby if you want to. usually it cant hurt. that is why snorvich recommends the tank transfer method before your fish go into quarantine. the tank transfer method really does work well and is 100% safe for all fish. unlike copper.

 

[chirojosh]

I disagree. I had a fish in QT for 8 wks, was healthy/active/eating. NO signs of ich at all. He was the 1st fish placed in a newly cycled tank, 4-6 wks later he's covered in ich. All this talk about passive QT, watch and observe, no matter for how long, is a false sense of security! Any fish or invert coming into my tank is assumed to have or be carrying ich, and is treated in QT for it. If your QT is watch and observe, mark my words ich will strike at some point!

 

[mos90]

i woudnt think your would need more then 4 weeks, but if you say it happened to you after that period, then i guess i cant argue with that.

personally i dont like to treat unless i feel its necessary. i have 5 fish in quarantine right now. thursday will be 4 weeks. i do not plan to treat copper unless ich appears, so far it has not. im even debating prazi. i may not treat at all.

 

[chirojosh]

Think about it though. We know that fish have been in tanks for years and all of a sudden have an outbreak, becuase they were carrying it subclinically. When a single fish in a tank is covered in parasites, and the rest aren't, we know the others are carrying it, but show no sx's. Myself, and others, believe a QT is actually less stressful than most displays, typically less organics, no other fish to compete with, lack of territorial disputes etc. A fish could be in that environment for months, even years and carry it subclinically. This is part of the myth that people say that all tanks have ich you just have to manage it. That's not true, you can have an ich free tank, but it has to be eradicated before going into the DT, whether you see it or not, whether the fish show signs or not, its the only way.

 

[Joon16]

I think I will play it safe and treat anyway. The reason I was asking is that I have a Sailfin tang (1.5 inches) in QT now and he is very shy/not eating much for the past week. I didn't want to start treatment when he is acting like this. Since it seems possible that even without signs he can still bring it in, I will just wait until he become more comfortable in the tank and eating more regularly then I will treat with cupramine/prazi.

 

[igot2gats]

<a name=10>Q: How far in advance should I have the QT cycled an ready?</a>
A: The more established the QT the better. A squeaky clean QT is not necessarliy the best environment, even if cycled, even if jump started with water from the display tank. A slightly "dirty" QT is my preference. A little algae growth is a good indicator that the tank is "ready". If the QT has to be set up on short notice to treat a sick fish, use water from an established display tank.

If you're setting up your DT for the first time, any tips on how to "dirty" your QT?

 

[Mike2112]

Been reading through this post trying to find an answer for the next fish that I am bringing in for my DT. I currently have a BioCube 29 with Live rock, 2 inch sand bed, 2 blue leg hermit crabs and 8 snails (various types) for algea control and other clean up jobs. I have two B&W Oscellaris clowns and I will be adding an Orange Spotted Goby (Amblyeleotris guttata) to the mix. I have heard from a few peeps that the gobies (like butterfly fish) are copper sensative and have been recommended to put them through a Paragaurd (Seachem's) bath 3X every other day and then 4 week min observation in QT.

I QT'd the clown fish so that is not the issue. Is the goby sensitive to copper? Has anyone used Paraguard? Thanks for the info.

 

[Mike2112]

One other question I forgot to ask. Will I need a small dish of sand in the QT tank like you do for some wrasses so the goby will sleep in it, or will the usually PVC pieces be sufficient?

Thank you.
-Mike

 

[jessemac]

Great thread, a lot of good information here. I didn't come across this one when I was doing all my research. Either way, I think I would have made the same choices for my current situation dealing with ICH. Thread posted.

 

[Chicago]

ok here is my question on this sticky.. if the QT tank which we use to observe becomes infested what then.. I am thinking of running my QT tank with copper or methan blue 24/7 as my fish come in and then put in the qt for two to three weeks observe.. and keep in if have signs..

thoughts

 

[Giovanni]

If you suspect a fish coming in to be sick, set up a HT and treat there before going to your QT. This is what I am doing. Some fish will not tolerate copper at all and must be treated by other means anyway. Also copper is hard on all fish. Keep a couple of sponges in your DT sump just incase you need to setup a HT for a new fish.

If your QT gets infected, set up another, clean the first one or just leave the first one FALLOW for a period of time.

 

[wizard13]

I've had a batch of fish, anthias, cardinals, a potters angel and a 2" chevron tang that have been in QT for 4 weeks. All eating great with no signs of disease. I'm torn about whether or not to dose copper or other medication for ick when everyone looks great. At this point nothing has been added to tank. I was thinking another 2-4 weeks before moving to display but no meds. What is the consensus? Thanks.

 

[Giovanni]

Unless there is sign of disease then do not treat. Go slow and observe longer if you only suspect something. If you see no signs for 6-8 weeks then you are probably good. I now do 3-8 weeks depending on the source of the fish. I have 9 fish from ORA in my QT and they will get a minimum of 3 weeks. I give LADD 4 weeks minimum and any fish from the normal chain of custody will get 6-8 weeks. All these times are assuming no signs or symptoms of disease.

I also QT everything that goes in my tank except dry sand or dry rock. This even includes macro algae. You never know what a drop of water from another system has in it! I have been wiped out twice now, both times this year and will not go through that again if at all possible!