Batch vinegar dosing DIY

Ok. I was planning on having a circulating pump in the aux sump but not aerate with bubbles. I can cover the tank but not seal it.

I don't think vinegar is inherently bad for the reef but in small doses. The idea of the reactor is
1. Reduce bacterial growth in the main tank system (localization)
2. Minimize the potential for pH reduction in the DT.
3. Allows the use of larger vinegar concentration (60ml vs. 15ml) in the aux tank (early evening) assuming it's consumption before the morning flush.
4. I already have an automated 80gal batch mode and I want to maximize its benefit.

Any ideas on using an eggcrate cage with bioballs as the reactor core vs. just eggcrate plates?
 
If this works, it should 'feel' like an 80 gal water change every night.
The bacterial gunk should be relegated to the removable caged media.
An actual water change (once every two weeks or a month) would be an export event as I rinse the media off with the old water-change export hose (cage in the garage sink getting washed off).
 
Side question - if aerobic bacteria are sufficient to consume NO3, why use denitrators at all?
Wouldn't vinegar dosing be sufficient?
 
Sure. This is a daily scrub vs. the monthly deep wash...

Any ideas on my biocage, daytime level fluctuation, sponge forest, or the risk of a monthly rinse-off?
 
Ok. I was planning on having a circulating pump in the aux sump but not aerate with bubbles. I can cover the tank but not seal it.

I don't think vinegar is inherently bad for the reef but in small doses. The idea of the reactor is
1. Reduce bacterial growth in the main tank system (localization)
2. Minimize the potential for pH reduction in the DT.
3. Allows the use of larger vinegar concentration (60ml vs. 15ml) in the aux tank (early evening) assuming it's consumption before the morning flush.
4. I already have an automated 80gal batch mode and I want to maximize its benefit.

Any ideas on using an eggcrate cage with bioballs as the reactor core vs. just eggcrate plates?

Depending on the amount of aeration, and the consumption rate, the pH may get quite low. If you do not blow off the excess CO2, you'll lower the tank pH.

You want high surface area to grow bacteria, and more hydrophobic surfaces often work better. I don't know how these materials compare in those regards. :)
 
Any ideas on my biocage, daytime level fluctuation, sponge forest, or the risk of a monthly rinse-off?

You want high surface area to grow bacteria, and more hydrophobic surfaces often work better. I don't know how these materials compare in those regards. :)

To Randy's point, you may want to look into something like Marinepure spheres from Cermedia. They have truly astounding surface area comapred to bioballs (132,000 sq. Ft/ cubic foot as compared to 97 sq ft. for bioballs). See: http://www.cermedia.com/marinepure-technical.php. They are however hydrophilic, which may be a mark against them.

Dennis
 
Bioballs were the medium of choice for bacteria in my day. I still have gallons of them so I'll give it a try.
 
Please post back with how you make out. I am very interested to see how this idea works out for you.

Dennis
 
I just commented that a hydrophobic material will likely attract bacteria more than a hydrophilic one.

It may not be true in all cases, but if you do not want cells to adhere to something, you put a hydrophilic polymeric coating on it, such as polyethylene glycol. :)
 
I just commented that a hydrophobic material will likely attract bacteria more than a hydrophilic one.

It may not be true in all cases, but if you do not want cells to adhere to something, you put a hydrophilic polymeric coating on it, such as polyethylene glycol. :)

Cool thanks. It makes sense since the cell membrane is hydrophobic. You learn something new every day.
 
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