Battery backup?

That is what I use now. I probably get 6 to 8 hours out of the largest one they had at staples. The problem is you lose a ton of power inverting the DC battery voltage to 120AC only to turn it back into low DC voltage. If you can keep it at low DC voltage from the start, the runtime per battery Amp hour is much longer as there is little loss.

Thanks.

Brett
 
It could be done but it is complicated, you would need a source of low voltage AC with two hot poles and a common neutral.
 
The pump is DC but the transformer puts out AC 11V for 6000 and 19V for 6100. The driver converts the AC power to DC.
 
What is the best place/method to order one of these? I'm not sure if we can order directly from you, Roger, or need to go through someone else? I'm not really concerned as much with the where as much as how long I'd have to wait.

Thanks!

Bob

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11604638#post11604638 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rvitko
I get 20 of them later this week.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11318910#post11318910 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rvitko
No. This solution is far more economical and versatile. The connector is $50, a small gel cell and trickle charger can be had for under $100, it also adds the versatility of being able to have a solar powered pump as well as the battery capacity of your choice.

wbeavers, I checked on availability yesterday and was told that the packaging and instructions are not yet ready. I expect we will recieve these with the salt and RO Systems in late January.

Hi Roger!

Can you tell us about the Salt and RO systems coming out please?

Thanks,

James
 
The salt just came in to our warehouse last Friday and we are working to get it out to distributors. It is made in Germany by Hans Weigandts which is in my opinion the best salt available. Our salt, Tunze Reef Excel, is basically a reef or pro blend of hW Marinemix. hW is an ISO 9000ff certified facility and the salt blend is tested for consistancy in accordance with DIN standard EN45001. The base salts are from German manufacturers such as BASF and Bayer.
It is available in 3 sizes 63.4 gal bag, MSRP $26.90, 126.8 gal bucket, MSRP $54.93 and 158.5gal bulk box $63.63. Volume of mix is based on 1.020 sg at 68 degrees F.

The RO station units we make here in the US, they are actually a product I designed and sourced the materials for. We use a GE membrane and a 20micron prefilter screen followed by a 5um carbon block and another .5um carbon block. I used redundant carbon filters as most US municipal water sources use chloramine and I felt the longer contact and redundancy was of more benefit than a sediment only filter. We leak test every single one of them and they include a nice hose fitting which has a brass insert so you don't have to worry about the easily stripped plastic fittings. We offer an optional clip on Ion Exchanger that is refillable and is the size of a standard membrane housing. We have finished building these filters but we are waiting on packaging, labeling and manuals from the factory.
 
I am working on getting that info but I have always used hW Marinemix in my home aquariums and the Ca was 380, KH was 9 not sure on Mg, I expect higher Ca levels in our mix but I don't yet have a spec sheet.
 
If you can find out for us the Potassium level of the Tunze salt for us Roger I would really appreciate it!

Thanks,

James
 
To clarify, does the 6100 pump itself run off of DC? If so, it would seem it wouldn't be that hard to make a DC battery backup for the 6000 or 6100. I would need to disconnect the pump from the driver, and have a relay that would switch the power from the driver to the battery source when AC power is lost. The pump would be running straight off the battery, no controller involved. What speed would a 6100 be running @ 12V?
 
It does but in a more complicated way, the AC-DC conversion occurs in the driver box so you have to supply it with AC power.
 
Thanks Roger. Ok, but how about the pump itself? Does the pump run off DC? I would want to supply the 6100 12vdc directly, bypassing the AC transformer and the driver box. I would set up a power fail relay that would switch the connection away from the driver and directly to a battery.
 
I don't know that that is possible, the driver is rapidly switching the polarization of two coils, without it I don't see the pump working.
 
What is confusing me is the info seems to be conflicting. Is the pump itself, forgetting the power source including the driver, a DC pump? If it is a DC pump, it should be able to run off a DC battery. If polarity is being constantly switched, its not a DC pump.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11878779#post11878779 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rvitko
I don't know that that is possible, the driver is rapidly switching the polarization of two coils, without it I don't see the pump working.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11636960#post11636960 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rvitko
The pump is DC but the transformer puts out AC 11V for 6000 and 19V for 6100. The driver converts the AC power to DC.
 
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