Bean's Frag Tank Build

BeanMachine

BeanMachine

Active member
Hey all,

Thanks for the advice a few weeks ago. I plan to set this frag tank up this Sunday with the help of my carpenter father.

I haven't decided on a return pump so for now I'll just use a Maxi 1200.

Would you do hard PVC or vinyl tubing?

I am confused on what size bulkheads I need? See size of holes on my plan. I think I need a 1" Bulkhead for the Return, and a 1.5" Bulkhead for the drain? Can someone confirm?

I have a diagram to share but I can't add it right now. The frag tank will be about 5' off the ground on the wall, the top of the frag tank will be below the top of my display. Here are some pics of the tank and holes for the drain and return that I was hoping I could get a little feed back on.

20130307_121820_zps3447b7f3.jpg


20130307_122117_zps8dd03b0b.jpg
 
Oh I measure the holes and I'm getting 1 3/4 on the return and 2 1/2" on the drain. I think I have the right bulkheads selected. Thanks.
 
Fwiw, I tried adding a tank to my existing system...HATED it... Just my .02 the DT was never the same after adding the other tank to the system.
 
Cody, that sounds about right for the bulkhead size. I typically use 3/4 or 1" for the returns and 1-1/2 for the drain which I reduce down to 1-1/4. You'll want to pick up a threaded bulkhead for your return so you can stick some locline in it for ease/max adjustment. I typically use black flexible hose for the returns, or clear hose if I don't have any black. Either is fine, but the clear will eventually grow algae inside. I would hard plumb and glue your overflow line leading to your sump. Make sure you put a few clamps around the pipe / fittings to help support the weight of the pvc and reduce some stress on the bulkhead. Once its running, make sure you adjust the water level in your sump accordingly to ensure you have enough room to accommodate the water that will back siphon down the return line when your pump shuts off. You'll want to adjust the locline and place your return nozzle as high as possible to avoid back siphoning more water than you have to.

29reef said:
Fwiw, I tried adding a tank to my existing system...HATED it... Just my .02 the DT was never the same after adding the other tank to the system.
Click to expand...

How funny, we had the exact opposite experience. We found it difficult to maintain a second independent stable system. Twice the water changes, twice the supplements, twice the top off equipment, twice the water testing, etc. Must say, having two separate stand alone systems is nice for pests and quarantine though.
 
I recently changed my 30g acrylic tank to glass (was tired of the extra effort in cleaning acrylic) and did all hard piping. There were loud splashing noises on the way down the hard pipe. I switched it over to vinyl tubing from the overflow down to the manifold which is still hard piping. It's now 100% silent.

So my input is use vinyl tubing. It will be easier to maneuver it around behind your tank and in the sump and it's quieter, at least in my experience.

For a return pump I've used various ones, mag, quiet one, rio, and eheim. I also did a lot of research recently because I changed over from a maxijet 1200 to a Rio 1100 (or maybe 1400 but I think it's the 1100) they are super quiet I have one of the big boy ones driving my aqua C skimmer on my main tank.

But in short:
Mags are fairly loud and pretty powerful, you wouldn't want this on your frag tank.
Quiet one pro pumps from what I've read are amazing, I've only had experience with the older ones that are temperamental to start.
Eheim (not compact version) I consider the best no question. I have a 1260 on my 60g tank it's awesome. but man they are expensive.
Rio, best pump for the price range. They work almost as well as an Eheim and I think this would work perfectly for your frag tank. My vote goes to the Rio 1100+ versions.

TL;DR version:
Vinyl tubing to make it quieter
Rio pump because of the price point per gph and low noise.
 
Ok here is where I am at.

The tank. Would you guys just plug the bottom 3/4" hole in the back wall. I don't think the tank needs all three return outlets. Would be easier to plumb just the two in the overflow anyway.

20130307_220232_zpse84c5d4f.jpg


Does this look OK? I plan to glue PVC between the bulkhead on the right and the check valve. Is that the best approach?

For the drain, can I just that flexible hose that's precut in 3, 4, 6 foot lengths and clamp or zip tie? I can't remember what its called (not spa flex, but the blue and gray one with the ends)

20130307_215133_zpsc44033fe.jpg


And the overflow box, with a strainer. I think I'm gonna glue an angled piece of acylic at a 45 to reduce the sound of the falling water towards the strainer. Do you think that's a good idea? I don't want any foam or pads as I don't want another thing to have to clean.

20130307_214400_zps5367d2df.jpg
 
solitude127 said:
Are you going to use a durso for the drain?
Click to expand...

Should I ? Right now I just have a strainer and planed to put a piece of acrylic at a 45 degree angle towards it to slow the fall and noise down. But I can if you think my idea won't work or would get clogged. Enlighten me.

solitude127 said:
You can always use the extra hole in the overflow as a b/u drain
Click to expand...

Which hole would you use as the back up drain? The bottom 3/4 or one of the left or right 3/4 holes on the top? I was thinking to use one of those as the float switch, cap the bottom, and only have one return in one of the corners.
 
From others advice new plan for the drain below the bulkhead is to get a thread to pvc adapter and run glued flex pvc instead. So disregard that big barb.

But thanks everyone for the tips.

I would like to set up one of the holes as a back up drain but I am hoping someone can sketch me something that I can understand. Plumbing is not my fortay.
 
BeanMachine said:
Should I ? Right now I just have a strainer and planed to put a piece of acrylic at a 45 degree angle towards it to slow the fall and noise down. But I can if you think my idea won't work or would get clogged. Enlighten me.
Click to expand...

I think it'll get loud if you don't use some sort of Durso, gurgle buster, herbie method. if you don't mind the noise, then there's no need

BeanMachine said:
Which hole would you use as the back up drain? The bottom 3/4 or one of the left or right 3/4 holes on the top? I was thinking to use one of those as the float switch, cap the bottom, and only have one return in one of the corners.
Click to expand...

I'd have to look at home. I'm at work so I can't see photobucket. I guess I should get back to work. naaaa. it's friday.
 
I see, yeah take a look when you get home. I won't be plumbing till Sunday or Monday. Thanks again everyone for the help.

OK how does this look?

FragTankDrainDrawingRev1_zps9d65c062.jpg
 
What are you all's feelings about the check valve? Do I even need it? My sump can hold another gallon or two I'm pretty sure if the power were to go out.
 
I do not use check valves. I've always thought if you have to use a check valve you are doing it wrong. They will fail. I always build my systems so the returns are up high they can only siphon back a certain amount of water and not overflow my sump.
 
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