Bean's Frag Tank Build

I do not use check valves. I've always thought if you have to use a check valve you are doing it wrong. They will fail. I always build my systems so the returns are up high they can only siphon back a certain amount of water and not overflow my sump.

Yeah I feel you. I don't plan to use one now for the same reason. I think my sump will handle the extra water.

Gonna go to Coral Gazer's tonight to get another hole drilled in the overflow box for the return, and use the other two for drains as shown.
 
Cody, here's how I would do it. This is with the bottom return hole plugged up as well. My whole design may be reversed from the way it's actually setup in the overflow box but it doesn't matter if it's flipped or not you get the idea. DO NOT put a check valve on your drain, you won't drain right. You only want them on the return for anti-siphon, but in your case saying you have enough room in sump I would not bother.

suX7Pdf.png


If you wanted an extra hole between the drain and return to make your system herbie style that would work too if you didn't want to mess with dursos on one drain to make it quiet.

Also, I think you'll be happy with the Eheim 1250, Eheims are on the expensive side but worth it for what you get.
 
Last edited:
Oh hahaha woops which is why I'm asking questions, but I see your points guys. I'll always be a newb when it comes to plumbing. Oh well.

Thanks for that drawing. So you would not drill a new return in the middle bottom and have two drains one being backup? I can get that done pretty easily but your saying no point in that?
 
Your choice really, herbie style easier to setup because of the ball valve to reduce flow and make it silent. Takes a little bit of messing around with dursos and air line tubes to get it quiet.

Thinking about it though, herbie style drain would probably be better, I would make another hole for a 1" bulkhead (the drain looks 1") in between the return and drain and use a ball-valve on it. But I think it's possible to use the return as the primary drain with ball valve (not 100% though, don't know herbie style that well) and just make a new one in center for your return(you could eliminate the ball valve to reduce flow to closest return that way) Chad would probably know the best way anyway, just ask him since you are stopping by.
 
One barb fitting away from finishing. Dang it. Still need a cabinet door. Oh and some plastic hose clamps for the overflow box.

20130310_211215_zps9dc7ae90.jpg



20130310_211920_zpsbbf4b7de.jpg
 
Special thanks to Johnwin he hooked me up with the frag tank light and some plumbing. Hoarder has everything...

All the light needed was a paint job and it was good as new.

20130310_220805_zpsde29f7be.jpg
 
Ok almost done j
20130311_135438_zpsfb05e95c.jpg
st need to add the power head. Moved my led modules a bit more spread out over my display but im pretty much there. Thanks Mike solitude for the idea moving one of the leds over the frag tank great idea man. Now I have the same lighting over both and I don't have to hang or buy a light. Super cool.

Here is the pic.
 
Are you sure those wall brackets will be able to support the weight of the tank? I'd be a little scared - even if those are 4" screws going into studs. I like the look of it floating in the corner, but it looks scary- especially with bracket only coming ~60% of the way across the base...
 
The tank is only eight gallons... So say 110 with the cabinet. I sat on it and moved quite a bit and it was solid as a rock. Heck there are tvs mounted to walls three times the weight and they are still up. We hit three studs with this.
 
Back
Top