Benggai Cardinal Fry

JoshuAcOOk

New member
Relative to other fish, how hard are Benggai Cardinal Fry to support?
I know that they stay in the father's mouth for quite awhile and then come out larger than other types of fry, so does that mean i can feed them just small pellets?
I was just going to set up a small tank whose plumbing is linked with my normal tank, would that be fine?
 
get a live brine hatchery and feed then baby live brine shrimp as they love it . its pretty easy to hatch them but a bit tricky to collect them . the easiest way is once they hatch you turn off all lighting and shine a led penlight into the water up near the top as the baby brine will be attracted to the light then use a 1/8"airline and siphon them out . you will see them in a little white cloud in front of the penlight .its also easy if you find something to set the light on and leave it there for ten minutes to give them time to be attracted and condensed so you can optimise your "catch rate "
 
and what rating between 1-10 would you give rating the difficulty of keeping benggai fry (with 1 being no intervention what-so-ever)?
 
Bangaii = easy mode.

Step 1) Feed parents well
Step 2) Move papa to seperate tank before release (without a net)
Step 3) Adjust flow on fry tank to provide a good, broad circular motion in the tank (this is the hardest part of feeding babies if doing frozen foods)
Step 4) Wait for papa to release
Step 5) Get papa out of there before he decides a fish sandwich sounds good
Step 5) Feed frozen food that they would normally take (aka...all the 'live' stuff people recommend..just frozen). Feed often
Step 6) Watch babies grow

Step 7) Optional, and probably not recommended...hug your babies because they are so cute

Step 8) watch how they eat like horses, I mean tean agers, i mean baby Bangaii and eat all of your food from the freezer. =)

I will admit it is fun to walk into the breeding area and see all of these babies come running up to the tank side of the tank like they are a dog.
 
Think of brine shrimp eggs as chicken eggs. It takes lots of energy for the chick to break the shell and emerge. Brine shrimp have that outer hard shell, and an inner soft shell (probably made of lipids or something). When you decapsulate, you are removing that hard shell. I'll quickly go over my method of decapsulating eggs.


Step 1. Hydration
Brine shrimp eggs have dimples on them when they are dried out and shipped to you. In order for the shell to dissolve right and start the process, you need to hydrate them to fill them with water. Pour some eggs (maybe 1/2 teaspoon or whatever you want), into a small rinsed out soda bottle. Fill this 1/3 of the way with RODI water. You can use tap if you don't use RODI for your main tank.

Step 2. Waiting
The eggs take a while to hydrate. I usually keep them in the bottle for around 2 hours. Every 10-15 minutes, shake up the bottle and roll it around. Some of the eggs will float and you want to move them around.

Step 3. Decapsulating
Once the eggs are hydrated, they look like little spheres. It is now time to take off the hard outer shell. Pour bleach (standard, unscented, cheap) into the bottle. Use as much bleach as you did water to hydrate them. The bleach will dissolve the shells. You want to keep the eggs suspended in the water column while they are decapsulating, so you will have to shake/swirl the bottle around for a couple minutes. It only takes a few (maybe 5 at most) minutes for the eggshells to dissolve. You will know when they are done because they will turn orange. Don't keep them in the bleach for too long though, or the bleach will enter the cysts and kill the shrimp.

Step 4. Rinsing
Now that the eggs are decapsulated, you need to get the bleach off them. There are a couple ways to do this. The first is to use a chlorine remover like amquel, prime, etc. I do not do this. I use the second method which is rinsing. I pour the eggs from the soda bottle into a 53 micron sieve that is used to collect rotifers. This will catch all the eggs. I run tap water (cool, but not cold) over the eggs for a few minutes, swirling them around a few times. This will rinse all the bleach off the eggs. You know they are rinsed off when you can't smell the bleach on the eggs. Get your nose right up to them and take a big whiff.

Step 5. Hatching
Hatch your eggs like usual (hatchery or upside down 2 liter bottle).

Good luck!
 
and could i just put a pump from the breeding tank to the home tank, and a siphon running from the main tank to the breeding tank. if i sync these two to move water at the right rate, would that be a pheasable plan?
 
I ran my first 5 or 6 bangaii's sets this way...as long as your main system can handle the extra load you are going to generate from feeding, you are fine. I had 30g of fry tank plumped into a 400g system. I started to overload the main system after about 6 months, thus why I removed them to a breeding setup.

I always kept a peice of LR and an extra hob filter running on the 10g tanks that were plumbed in. I turned over roughly 1g an hour the way I had it setup. Your siphon needs to be small enough to handle a low turnover...I built mine overlfow box for the 10gs....handled the flow perfect for months, but it couldn't handle more than about 2g/hr
 
i've had cardinals breed a few times but the babys got munched almost every time the only time they made it was when they got into the sump somehow i never feed them and 2 made it to adulthood
 
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